Jump to content

Clock Oiling

Folkvisor

By Folkvisor
in All Things Clocks

 Share

Recommended Posts

Folkvisor Super WRT Addict

Folkvisor

Posted
Posted

Is less more when oiling clocks? There was obviously too much of the wrong kind of oil on the plates before it was cleaned.

I used small drops of oil on the pivots, more on the barrel arbours.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Get some Windles clock oil that will cover all the pivots, escapement and mainsprings. You need a good watch oil for platform escapements.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Cause it is that is one of the many reasons why there are so many lubricants about. You never use a thin oil on a clock train. You do use watch oil on a clock with a platform escapement and I would suggest a pocket watch train oil.

Folkvisor Super WRT Addict

Folkvisor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm presently trying to get the clock to slow up a bit. Just experimenting with pendulum length...

I'll probably slow it down too much, speed it up too much, slow it down...

 

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
 

The bell doesn't ring very well because the beater dampens the bell when hitting it.

Is there a way to remedy this?

It is called a hammer that hits the bell. Bend the hammer closer to the bell; it is a trial and error until you get it right. If you have the movement out of its case, it will sound different. Cases were designed in a way so the sound of the strike or chime could sound loud and clear to the ear. Modern clock cases are not, the type of wood also plays its part.

Folkvisor Super WRT Addict

Folkvisor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Will do. It's called a hammer for orchestral bells too.

The hour chime is a very nice full sound but that hammer seems to hit the chime then immediately drop away. 

Between the bell hammer and pendulum length adjustments It keeps me busy. A work in progress.

Thank you for your advice.

 

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

This is a sign that the chiming wheels are not in line with the clock chiming mechanism. Is there any way you can take a few photos so I can point out what you need to do. The other thing do you know the type and make of the movement?

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

When the warning takes place make sure none of the hammers lift, this applies to the strike and the chimes sides. The pin needs to be at least 1 quarter of the wheel back from the flywheel.

  • 2 months later...
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Welcome aboard Dave.

Thank you for the post, it's one I've meant to make for a while now.  I too have been using fully synthetic engine oil for lubricating clocks for years now and have had excellent results.  The dregs left left in the new container from one engine oil change will give you enough oil to lubricate many clocks.

 

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Thanks for that link. I will still use my tried and trusted Windles clock oil. I had great results over many years. In fact I still have a bottle of it in one of my tool boxes.

Folkvisor Super WRT Addict

Folkvisor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow, this is good news! I could by 2 or 3 quarts of motor oil for what it cost me for a very small bottle of clock oil!

Also, I was told to use transmission fluid to lube springs. Cheap and seems to be working so far for the few clocks I've fixed.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • LMS
      Thermal Bluing Issue

      By LMS · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • RichardHarris123
      Removing stem from compressor-style case

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • tomh207
      Thermal Bluing Issue

      By tomh207 · Posted

      I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
    • rehajm
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By rehajm · Posted

      …I guess my friend’s dad was duped…and by a Rolex dealer… …well, it’s a good fake 🤪 even the box and papers look legit…  
    • JohnR725
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      I believe what were talking about here is missing or lack of documentation and what is taught in schools still not quite sure how they compare? So let's explain the similarities. So yes technical documentation versus the schools can explain how to lubricate what lubrication's etc. So yes basically that would be the same or could be the same and how to clean and lubricate the watch. As were discussing 3135 I needed to do a little bit of research. It appears to be it came into existence in 1988 was manufactured for 34 years and came to an end in 2022. Interesting problem would be watch manufactured over 34 years with a change the servicing procedure, perhaps discover it was not perfect upgrade or change components, discovered that there watchmakers perhaps didn't understand things and give you helpful suggestions wonderful Rolex would do any of that stuff? Then if they did and they did have upgrade components how would we know? This is where supplemental documentation would be nice if we could get it because basically putting a paper bag over your head and saying I can't see the problem that means it doesn't exist may not always work for all watches. Who knows maybe even this watch is broken because somebody didn't read the service manual As they didn't have it and didn't do things the way they were supposed to or maybe there was an update that wasn't done. Oh and @VWatchie  Nice pictures as usual I would like to make a request can you get me a picture of the backside of the dial of this watch?  
×
×
  • Create New...