Jump to content

Seiko 7606 pictorial

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Here's a walkthru of a Seiko 7606, I thought I'd share these pics as they don't seem to be very popular/common.

I had bought it sometime ago but as it was working fine I didn't bother to service it until now. To be honest, I thought it had a 6619 movement in it and after posting a different 6619 in the 'watch of today's thread I figured I'll pull this one apart and take some pics.

Well I apologise as it's not a 6619 but actually a 7606. The separate day pusher should have alerted me but I missed it! Anyway its not a common movement and the phone was fully charged so here we go!

23 jewels...goody! Check out the cool spinner logo on top of the 'Seiko Sportsmatic'!


Date advancer pusher...I don't think it's original? Works well and I don't have a spare so it'll stay.


Case back was pretty worn with only the stamped serial number visible. This is common for Seikos from the 60s. This would have had a dolphin on it originally.


Pic of the main plate...uh-oh, the scars around the centre hole is not good.


Someone has replace the centre jewel with  bushing. Not exactly good news but this is not a fast moving part and the fit is good so it will stay. In this pic the diafix springs have been unlocked and the cap jewels removed.


Close up of the diafix settings in the locked position with cap jewels in place.


Assembly of the train wheels. As the barrel has its own bridge,  I assembled the train first..it easier than with the barrel installed but to be honest I didn't expect any problem as the cap jewels meant the under if the jewel is dished and the pivots would find their way home without much problems.



Then the barrel..It's finished in a gold colour which looks nice.


Barrel bridge on and ratchet wheel in place.


The ratchet wheel is secured by a screw AND washer.. Not common but understandable as this screw is one of the few that often break on other movements. The click spring is also installed here. The click spring securing screw is fiddly and I usually place the screw in the spring first and lower it to the movement as I find it easier.


And here the balance is installed and its ticking! It doesn't look like a Seiko, in fact it looks more like a Swiss movement.


Now we head on to the dial side... first to go in are these bits.


They fit here.


And this is how they look installed...It's the date quickset activated by the pusher.


Next are these bits..


This is the day jumper. The spring goes in this way. This is easier than the date quickest as its installed without tension.


In the picture below the set lever and setting wheels have been installed. The day/date corrector as well. Pretty simple but complex compared to what Seiko came up with later!


Here's the hour wheel..it is a double wheel which also turns the date/day wheel.


And here it's pretty much complete except for the daywheel. The big screw at the (19 date) is what keeps the datewheel level. Note the dial retaining screws, common to swiss watches.


Dial and hands on..


Seiko used some nice solid hands here


On the final stretch...the automatic winding mechanism. Here are the components.


And here they are assembled.


And installed..


Complete with its recently serviced 6619 cousin (7606 on the right).


All in all a nice movement but the dial side was more complex than usual. The date jumper spring was reluctant to stay in place so I place it close to where it should go, installed the cover, and persuaded the spring into position with a fine oiler.

Hope you enjoyed the pictures.!














Edited by anilv
Duplicate pictures.
  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congratulations on a nice walk through. Good clear photos. You were lucky with that centre bush, as it did not look good at all, and no wear on the centre wheel shaft. Mind you steel is much harder than brass.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks so much for all the tips! I tried both methods. I tried pulling the pins with two pliers but they wouldn't budge. I then tried the method shown in the clip but that was way too much effort and I was pretty sure the bracelet would not have looked right once I was done. I ended up getting a similar bracelet that's easy to resize but I'm glad we gave this a shot.
    • Yes. This machine can function in 2 modes, soldering and spot welding. The spot welding mode can be used for broken screw removal as well as repairing broken mainspring bridles. If your DIY one works fine, then there is no need to buy another machine. But if you are thinking of buying a new machine, I suggest you wait awhile because I heard that there is a new machine under development that in addition to the above 2 functions, has a 3rd mode that can be used to fill pits in corroded metal surfaces.
    • Thanks for clearing that up, I was just going by how it appeared to work in the few videos I had seen on line, especially comparing it to my own manual current based jobby, when they was showing it being used to remove a broken stem it seemed to weld as no solder paste was used. I will see if I can find the video. Did seem to work very well though, just trying not to buy it as my DIY one seems to work ok and i dont do enough to justify the cost, but ghen again we do seem to say that a lot Found the video It's on this sellers page https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtyFJxo You can see solder paste being used for the dial foot but not when removing the broken stem from the crown, it looked to me to be more like the flash from a spot welder which was why I thought it was based on a capacitor discharge like one of those spot welders used for battery pack assembly.
    • Well what do you say, if this is the work of a reputable clock repair it’s pretty poor. It is definitly needing a rebush. What Old Hippy has said holds true. The old bush out the hole tidying up and a new bush pressing in. I my self would drill the hole to remove the punch marks and make a bush to restore the plate but for that you need a lathe. Looking at the bush the condition of the pivot may also need attention, burnishing at the least to restore the surface. It’s not impossible to do it by hand , but will take care and time.
    • Thanks old hippy Its  shame really as it was purchased from a reputable clock repairer for not an inconsiderable sum. As you say it has been botched; even I can I can see that and I'm not a clock repairer.  Plugging holes sounds quite technical; what's involved please? I'm trying to weigh up how much of this I can do myself.  Thanks so far.
  • Create New...