When Do You Give Up On A Movement?

[Legarm]

When do you give up on a movement? I have tried everything on a Smiths Cal; 512, it runs for 2 hours then just stops.  2 strip downs and checked everything then re-assembled. Then 2 hrs..... stops. If anyone wants a watch to referee a football match, contact me..... :(

[Geo]

Have you studied the slow moving wheels in detail to see if there is any damage or something stuck between any of the leafs? Another thing worth checking is that the spring is OK and not slipping off the barrel hook.

Just a thought!

[Legarm]

Have you studied the slow moving wheels in detail to see if there is any damage or something stuck between any of the leafs? Another thing worth checking is that the spring is OK and not slipping off the barrel hook.

Just a thought!

Thanks but tried all that, full strip down, spring out and cleaned. Perhaps old age has got it at last. It is not one of Smiths better movements.

[bobm12]

How about excessive play (up and down) from pinion to wheels? I had a Seiko -- I know, different watch -- the train bridge would not seat properly and it was due to an almost loose jewel right under the rotor. This caused the whole train to be jammed. I pinned the jewel into place so the bridge sat as it should and everything started behaving again.

 

In your case, after a while the wheels may be pushed out of alignemet by the normal movement of the works since there is too much up and down play causing them to disconnect. Just a thought...

[clockboy]

I do sympathise I have a problem with a ETA that runs great but if the dial is down it stops after 7hrs. Suspect a cracked jewel but have not had time to strip and check.

I never give up and by never given up I have learnt lots by this and many are my mistakes. 

If this watch only runs for 2hrs it suggests a power issue either binding (such as a cracked jewel) stopping power release or the mainspring is broken or sett.

Hope this helps. 

:thumbsu:

Edited July 29, 2014 by clockboy

[anilv]

Was the watch stopping cold after 2 hrs? 

 

If the watch was fully wound I would check the barrel pivots.

 

Anil

[CKelly]

Hi,

   I think of problems you are describing as puzzles to be figured out. In another post I mentioned an Omega Constellation I have. It started doing almost the same time you describe. It would run for a bit keeping good time and would stop for apparently no reason. After several times of taking it apart and putting it back together I finally realized that there was a breakdown in power transfer from mainspring to drivetrain. At first I thought there must be a bad tooth on mainspring barrel or the gear meshing with it. Took it apart one more time only to find I was wrong again. This time however I had determined that slight pressure on any of the other gears would cause watch to run smoothly but pressure on mainspring barrel and nothing would happen. When I investigated the first wheel closely I found the gear messing with the mainspring barrel to be loose on the shaft. Replaced first wheel and watch has been running for over a year now with no issues. Like I said I think of these sort of issues as puzzles to be learned from so when in doubt I walk away, grab a cup of coffee and just think about it for a bit. Another trick I find that helps is shown in Marks video where he services the rusty Breitling. He puts the drivetrain back in place and gives it a little push on the mainspring barrel before adding the pallet fork. This not only insures that all wheels are in proper place but it may allow you to feel if something is binding. 

  None of this may help you and you may have already tried some of what I mentioned but I like to offer any help I can just as I read these forums to learn from others.

Charles K  

[Geo]

Good post Charles.

What I do to check that the gear train is running freely is, remove the click spring, lever escapement and the balance wheel. Now use your puffer and gently blow air onto the periphery of the escape wheel, if all is well this should be enough to turn all the gears and pinions including the barrel. This method has helped me find a few issues in the past. It is not full proof as you are driving the train backwards, but it is a good indication of how free things are.

[Legarm]

thanks for all the helpful comments. I will have a closer look later at the balance bridge as I think there is excessive vertical shake on the balance wheel.

[clockboy]

Legarm,

Just stick at it & when you find the fault it is a really strange but nice moment.

That,s what makes Horology such a fascinating subject where you just never stop learning no matter how many years of experience.

[Legarm]

Legarm,

Just stick at it & when you find the fault it is a really strange but nice moment.

That,s what makes Horology such a fascinating subject where you just never stop learning no matter how many years of experience.

 

Done a few 512's & 602's, they can be tempremental and I do persevere...... 

[Geo]

Done a few 512's & 602's, they can be tempremental and I do persevere......

Remember to let us know what the problem was when you find it, for future reference! Edited July 30, 2014 by Geo

[CKelly]

I really like Geo's suggestion of blowing air into area of escapement wheel after removing balance, click spring and pallet fork. If a little air should make barrel move by blowing onto escapement then you would think everything would be free and smooth. I never thought of that. That's an idea I know I will use a lot.

Thanks,

Charles K