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Waltham Pocket Watch


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Here is a photo of the opening in question:IMG_0374.thumb.JPG.706c6bce8521f6c22cd1f22f18d2ec8e.JPG

I don't think that hole has anything to do with it because the teeth are on the top edge, if that is the case just lock the wheels up and remove the barrel to take the power away.

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There is a small pin in the opening that raises and lowers when the watch is wound so it must be the click. But I have no idea how it can be disengaged to let down the mainspring. I've tried small screwdrivers and very fine strong tweezers and no luck.
 
I actually stopped the wheels with Rodico and removed the barrel plate to have a better look but the barrel wheel is in the road so it is impossible to see underneath it without removing all the wheels and I don't want to do that unless the power is let down.
 
It's a bit of a conundrum...
 
Any ideas??
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There is a small pin in the opening that raises and lowers when the watch is wound so it must be the click. But I have no idea how it can be disengaged to let down the mainspring. I've tried small screwdrivers and very fine strong tweezers and no luck.
 
I actually stopped the wheels with Rodico and removed the barrel plate to have a better look but the barrel wheel is in the road so it is impossible to see underneath it without removing all the wheels and I don't want to do that unless the power is let down.
 
It's a bit of a conundrum...
 
Any ideas??

Is the power let down or don't you know?

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It isn't let down entirely because the watch starts working from time to time.

It was working fine and kept good time. It suddenly didn't work; no idea what happened.

What I would do is lock the gear train up remove the balance, remove the pallet and let it power down on its own then strip it 

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I presume the pin is inside the whole you identified. The watch manufacturer would not have made the whole without it serving a purpose. Perhaps you are looking at the edge of the click. If so you just hold it back while the barrel unwinds.

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What I would do is lock the gear train up remove the balance, remove the pallet and let it power down on its own then strip it 

If you go about it this way make sure you have oiled all pivots. Do this at your own risk.

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I'm going to try to release the click with the a small screwdriver instead. 

I wonder why anyone use this system. Maybe it was exclusivity or something but it sure doesn't make a watch repairer's life very easy.

I'm working on a watch with no jewels anywhere as well. I wonder what kind of lubricaion one uses on that.

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Your Waltham has a lever release. You're not seeing it in its entirely. You need to remove the split dust cover first. Which is located around the middle of the movement. Push the lever up by the stem hole and gently rotate the first part of the dust cover and gently easing away from the movement. Then remove the other half.
Once this is done push on the lever located by the mainspring barrel but remove the balance wheel first.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

On examining the balance, while attempting to remove it, I found a piece of crap on one of the escape wheel teeth. I carefully removed it and eureka! The watch now is running again.

I'll monitor it for a while but I think I've solved the problem. No idea where the piece of whatever came from...

I may still need to mess with the winding mechanism...

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Simple answer is you don't need to remove the balance. Ensure you control the let down of the mainspring. If the movement has a Swiss pallet fork , removing the balance first will not release the mainspring but do not remove the fork with any tension left on the spring. Parts for Walthams can still be procured on for example ebay but balance assembly in good condition are gold dust.
Your movement is a 3/4 plate but seems to be fitted with the model 1883 type balance. If you can I suggest you remove the whole assembly. If not, there is a small screw opposite the hairspring stud. Loosen it but not too much so it can fall out. Then once the stud is pushed out, you can remove the bridge and then wheel. Remember to tighten that little screw whilst the bridge is out so it doesn't get lost.
If you try to reassemble in the same way on the movement, getting that little stud back in, is a nightmare. It's far easier to reassemble outside the movement.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

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Hi 

I've had previous experience with those little stud screws. 

The third photo, posted 14 June, shows a small lever in an indentation. I've discovered that this lever pulls out.

Any idea what that does?

I've had the barrel plate off but can see precious little that way. 

Always interesting stuff!

Dave

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Hi 

I've had previous experience with those little stud screws. 

The third photo, posted 14 June, shows a small lever in an indentation. I've discovered that this lever pulls out.

Any idea what that does?

I've had the barrel plate off but can see precious little that way. 

Always interesting stuff!

Dave

It's what you pull out when you run the watch out of the case,if you don't it looses time.

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I disassembled the watch. It so happens that the photo I posted on June 15th shows the hole that is the access to the click. It has a small cleat on it that allows it to be moved away from the cogs in order to wind down the watch.

I took off the balance bridge and found that there was no pressure on the pallet fork so I dismantled the thing.

But, there is a bonus! The pallet fork safety has an S-shaped safety that matches another Waltham I was working on. I thought this was because it was bent but it is supposed to be that way.

So, now it may be possible for me to repair the other watch. It just needs a hairspring and that may be possible to replace.

Live and learn...

Dave

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