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How i make a watch stem


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A friend of mine asked if i want to make a stem for him. I have improved my hardware and wanted to try so happily accepted :)

Not in the Dremel now. Here the pulley wheel is serving as a dividing plate with 4 holes making sure that the rectangle cross-section will be perfect. Turning with help of a microscope, no loupe at all. 

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A thin glass strip is hot glued on the "T-rest" which has two purpose. The file is sliding on it easily and it is making sure that the sides will be parallel.

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Still a lot to file down.

The workpiece is a spoke of a Chehoslovak Favorit road racer. Even tungsten carbide is softer if hardened.

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Finaly i got something similar to a winding stem.... for the 6th try.... 

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M1.2 thread done. The stem here was turned down to 1.15mm to make sure it wont break while tapping. 

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After heated to red and dropped in brine. It is so hard and brittle, i can hear it whizzling near my ear :)

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Using my special top quality heating pan

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Annealed. Not as shiny like on pictures one can find on pro-watchmaker school sites, but the color tells me the temperature and that is important.

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 And the best thing is, i dont had the movement. So there might be a big surprise for the guy i made it if it wont work :)

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On 2016. 10. 18. at 0:00 AM, MilTimeCan said:

I am in awe.

Wow, I worked on a lot of plastic model aircraft parts in my younger days, but I have never seen anything like this. 

Sir, you are a pro !

Not a pro for sure :) Just so excited while discovering this new watchmaking world. For an experienced watchmaker this is an every day job :) And i am sure i could make it better. For example if i had a glass fiber scratch brush, then the bluing would be better. Also i am not satisfied with the setting lever slot.The rectangular edges here are not perfect. I will have to grind a better graver to cut this type of slots.

Made a video of this project, threading included.

 

Edited by szbalogh
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    • Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
    • Hi   Find attached parts/repair notes for the JLC 911,  might be useful. JLC_JLC 910, 911.pdf JLC_JLC 910, 911 Repair Notes.pdf
    • Hello and welcome to the forum Dan. Used to know Middlesboro quite well, that was twenty years plus ago. Attached a little reading to get you started. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
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