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Agat/Kirovskie/Zlatoust 4282 stopwatch disassembly and repair


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Receíved two stopwatch movements recently (the two on the right). One was a full movement, the other one had the barrel missing. Also had a case with a Zlatoust dial and a movement containing only the mainplates and the dial side complications. So i decided to make one working stopwatch with the older dial (lookng better in my opinion).

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DONT TRY TO REMOVE THE HANDS!!!  The dial is fixed by two grub-screws found at the movement side. DONT EVEN TRY TO REMOVE THE HANDS!!! Pull upp the dial, the hands will be also lifted. You can see two hearth-shaped steel plates with a steel tube in the next picture taken from the dial side. The steel tube has a brass tube pressed on it, which actually holding the hand. The hand is riveted on the brass piece. Secured position of the hands on the hearth-shaped plate ensures that they always jups to 0 at reset. The hearth-shaped plates are spring-mounted on the wheel pinions, so if one lifting the dial the springs will let off the pinion. I wanted to change the dial so tried to remove the hands. The result is one bent second hand (the big one) and a broken minute hand. It seems that it will be a pain mounting the hands back in the proper position.

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At first the movement seemed to be a complicated one, but the disassembly is pretty straightforward. 

Release the tension of the springs first by unhooking them. All of them are mounted with screws so they wont fly away. 

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Then just remove the levers one by one.

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The next lever has a pin for stopping the balance wheel.

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And finally the column wheel. The last lever spring didnt wanted to come off so i just left it there.

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There is nothing unusual on the movement side. First take off the balance assembly.

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(Last chance to let down the mainspring tension!)

Then the pallet fork. 

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Ratchet wheel, click, and clickspring dismounted.

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The crown wheel is mounted with a spring loaded slipping plate. This is so russian... simpe and easy. 

And finally take down the three screws holding the main plate.

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I would like to mention it here, that the whole thing is so ... russisan :) All parts are rough and "has material in it". Pinions are thick....

I could see oil residues on the pallet staff pinion, which was cogged (where it is ususally not needed) and on one of the gear pinions. 

No sign of oil in the barrel. I could evel let it down lamely.

Nothing special at disassembly, just push down and the cover will pop off. No cleaning needed here, i will just add oil. 

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Balance disassembly, pretty streightfoward. 

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Yes, both end of the balance is broken. It has some "russian amount" of shellac on the impulse jewel. 

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And ready for repivoting. 

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Edited by szbalogh
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  • 10 months later...

Received a good lot of ~200-300 balance staffs from a friend and found some staffs for the Agat stop watch. Replaced, serviced. Now working like a charm :)

Still need to make a minute hand since i ruined the original one and a new crystal.

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    • You're thinking metal to jewel in general I guess. Maybe it would be a good idea to peg the pallet jewel hole on the main plate after the epilame treatment. I think that could work as it is my impression that the epilame doesn't sit very hard, but I could be wrong about that so feel free to educate me. I didn't remember that 9501 was thixotropic (thanks for the link). That would mean it's even runnier during impact (lower viscosity) so perhaps it's time I get some fresh grease as mine seems a bit too runny. What I have seen is a whitish surface after washing but it goes away if I scrub the surface with a brush in a degreaser (Horosolv). I don't think it embeds itself in the metal but sticks very hard to the metal. I don't worry too much about the cleaning solution. I just want perfectly clean parts and my solution can be replaced for little money (ELMA RED 1:9). Anyway, I quite often need "to strip back and rebuild" and scrubbing parts by hand isn't exactly the most stimulating part of a service.
    • I’ve had a couple movements where it is clear the previous watchmaker was diligent with lubrication but the old epilam had turned to a fine white powder covering the pallet fork and keyless parts, which can’t be good for parts. I’m spare with epi since I don’t know how long it takes to degrade to that state…
    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro. I thought the idea was for the epilame to create a barrier, a wall between the lubrication and anything else, so the lube cant spread.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
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