Jump to content

How to Open a Breitling Top Time 2000 Case

Bungle

By Bungle
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

ricardopalamino Distinguished Member

ricardopalamino

Posted
Posted (edited)

Interesting post and can hardly wait to find out how to remove the movement . The attached link suggests that you have to remove the hands to remove the movement ???? That would suggest  friction fit dial feet on the dial ,.... just sayin'...

Maybe the tachy ring is friction fit ???? Maybe the little indent at 3 o'clock next to the subdial is the key ,...to press and turn the movement . 

As you can tell , I honestly don't know .....just trying to think out of the box .

 

Wake Mark up and ask him ..

http://breitlingsource.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=59691

Edited by ricardopalamino
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bungle Member

Bungle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@Cad101 I cannot see how a tool could fit under the case ring, as I can only just get the corner of a sheet of paper under it!  As such, I have to surmise that the chapter ring is only removable with the movement out of the case.

@ricardopalamino, that link does not work, "the requested topic does not exist". I have discussed with Mark and he cannot recall seeing this type of case/back/movement, so for now I am stuck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cad101 Super WRT Addict

Cad101

Posted
Posted

So after reading umpteen million breitlng posts on other forum groups this seems to be a movement holding ring and is removable although I couldn't find anyone posts on how to remove it all people seemed to say is that it wasn't breitlings best idea they had had for holding a movement inside a case. Also this ring is very hard to find so is the taccy ring so if your going to have a go atvremoving them BE CAREFUL also it seems your crystal should have a tension ring the crystal and thin ring are used to hold the movement in place together.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bungle Member

Bungle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well @Cad101, you were spot on!  The thin silver ring exposed when the crystal was removed does indeed hold the movement/dial/tachy ring assembly in the case.  So careful levering of the ring (protecting the edge of the tachy dial) - starting opposite the stem and moving slowly round - got it out, and then the whole movement and dial assembly just pops out easily - probably didn't need to pull the stem apart beforehand, as it would most likely have just slid apart as the movement was eased out.

13_2.jpg

I was quite surprised that there are no alignment pins on the back of the tachy ring, so when it all goes back in I will have to ensure that everything lines up as it should.

14_2.jpg

And here is the inside of the case with the stainless steel back part still pressed in:

16_2.jpg

Thanks also to Richard Askham at http://thewatchspotblog.com/ who also came up with the same solution.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cad101 Super WRT Addict

Cad101

Posted
Posted

Glad to be of help that's what we are all here for. You can now get on with your service / repair I'm looking forward to seeing this watch up and running and back to its best.

Mick

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Bungle said:

The thin silver ring exposed when the crystal was removed does indeed hold the movement/dial/tachy ring assembly in the case.  So careful levering of the ring (protecting the edge of the tachy dial) - starting opposite the stem and moving slowly round - got it out, and then the whole movement and dial assembly just pops out easily

To be fair that's basically what I had suggest before

 

Quote

 

Is it possible that the ring around the dial is screwed or slotted into the case?

 

Even if it's just slightly fitted, still had to be rotated to ease it out.

 
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bungle Member

Bungle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@jdm, yes you are right, despite my best efforts to misunderstand! To be honest there are no wrong suggestions in response to my original question, as working through each one in turn led to the solution.

So credit is due to all who have taken the time to respond.

Hopefully I can have this watch refurbished to a standard worthy of its name.  I will post pictures as and when they become available.

Thanks again all.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ricardopalamino Distinguished Member

ricardopalamino

Posted
Posted

Whew !! I can relax now . ....All kidding aside I am pleased you were able to figure out the puzzle and am looking forward to your progress with this beauty .  I was wondering if you have had any correspondence with The Watch Guy To see if he can offer any advice or Info to working on this watch ?

Good Luck , Louis

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
Bungle Member

Bungle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK, so the case has been off with http://www.watchcaseworks.co.uk to have its much needed restoration, and now that it is back it looks stunning. I have uploaded some pictures so you can see what I mean. Even areas where the dreaded metal adjustable bracelet had ground its way into the case metal inside the lugs has been repaired.

Now just to re-assemble everything and then get the movement looked over and serviced.

Getting there!

Steve

DSCF0162a_2.JPG

DSCF0164a_2.JPG

DSCF0165_2.JPG

DSCF0167_2.JPG

Top Time 2000 Case After Refurb_1.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Wonkywatches New Member

Wonkywatches

Posted
Posted

Hi

The stem is a split stem so can be removed by pulling straight out. Then remove the plexi glass using a claw tool. The steel ring sitting around edge of case on dial/ tachometer zone is just a push fit into the case and can be gently teased out then the movement can be tipped out of the case. Be careful the ring can be tight and needs to be prized out very gently, don't use screwdriver etc as don't want to mark dial. I use peg wood sharpened to sharp chisel shape. If the glass will not come out with claw it can be blown out with compressed air through winding aperture once crown is removed

Hope this helps if you havnt already done it

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
Bungle Member

Bungle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK, So I have had the movement serviced and reassembled by Richard (http://thewatchspotblog.com") and it now looks fantastic.

@WatchDoc I have no intention of selling it just yet! I think I will enjoy it for some time before that ever happens! I have also fitted a new Hirsch black Crocodile strap with gold-plated buckle. I wonder what would have been fitted originally?

Thanks everyone for your help and advice, I hope you like the end result as much as I do.

 

SH-Breitling-1.jpg

SH-Breitling-2.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • aac58
      Rare Seiko 5actus Watch??!! With a lot🤪🤔😲

      By aac58 · Posted

      This is not rare at all, the dial code and case code don't usually match.
    • Kkramme
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Kkramme · Posted

      Good question!! Anyone know of a substitute movement??!! 🤔🙏
    • Kkramme
      Rare Seiko 5actus Watch??!! With a lot🤪🤔😲

      By Kkramme · Posted

      Interesting issue that I just noticed: this Seiko 5actus Watch from 1977 has a calibre listing on the dial of 7019-8030R but on the case back it says 7019-8010!! Like a mis-printed coin, is this watch therefore worth a lot of money for its rarity?? 🤪😲🤔🤪
    • Mercurial
      Smit

      By Mercurial · Posted

      I wish that was the case. The Aegler movements used in the early days by Wilsdorf & Davis (for brands like Rolex and Rolco) came in several sizes and without designated calibre numbers that survive.  They become a bit easier to identify during the 1920s. Below is an Aegler-Rebberg, 25.74mm in diameter. It’s from a woman’s Rolex wristwatch. Stamped Rebberg and 500 on the dial plate (but it isn’t a Rebberg 500, it’s the wrong size).  I’d be interested if anyone can identify the movement.  It is based off the Aegler Nr.1, circa 1903, but they based many many calibres of different sizes on it. The closest I have to a positive ID is the  ‘Rolex Nr.50’ circa 1917, but no dial side images or movement sizes are available in the references. There are identical looking movements in many sizes.  The 25.74mm of this movement is a particularly strange size for the era, it equates to 11.41 lignes.      Best Regards, Mark
    • GuyMontag
      FHF70 balance jewels settings

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      It looks like this movement comes with a number of different shock settings. Emmywatch shows that it comes in versions with no shock settings, 'Incabloc', 'shock resist', and 'Supershock'. Perhaps the different settings position the impulse jewel/roller table in a non-ideal position relative to the pallet fork/guard pin. Are you able to check under high magnification if the pallet fork and roller table are able to operate without any interference? Just for fun I took a look and I have one FHF 70 in my collection, a West End Secundus with a non-shock protected FHF70. I had a note with the watch that said, "Movement is stamped 'FHF 70', but the FHF70 looks to have sub-seconds instead of center seconds movement (??)" but that a google search turned up both types for this movement. EDIT: I just took a look in my parts drawer and I have a few of these movements, both in center seconds and sweep seconds, but they all are non-shock protected.  
×
×
  • Create New...