Jump to content

Replacing Spring on Vintage German Pocket Watch

jdrichard
 Share

Recommended Posts

jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted

I was given this pocket watch (in photo) from my father-in-law and I have taken oth the barrel by pushing a lever that moved a gear away from the mainspring barrel and then unscrewing the barrel screw and sliding it out the side. Question is, where do I get a new mainspring for this fine old watch.ee3fafd484b40ca01be096a356352243.jpgf2d36c9f5e48da8e27358f1787cad6ae.jpgf06e18860441075681f2ee12a09149c5.jpge956100fa7d24e79948929e6c791d5d2.jpgb56acc51fa6ab425a299891b6fbf9fa8.jpg712f8415f93db74ec26c7964f148caab.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Measure the height width and strength of the old spring and also the barrel's diameter.   As bobm12 has said try Cousins, but there are many suppliers you can look for on the web.

Edited by oldhippy
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
19 minutes ago, jdrichard said:

So i went to the Web site and it says the mainspring is as follows:

Mainspring / battery

Zf3568, 2.10 x 16.0 x 0.20 x 460mm

Not sure what these numbers mean. Sorry for the ignorance, but help. And then where to buy.

As mentioned, Cousins  has it. 

GR6095 £7.30
Link to comment
Share on other sites
bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

Not sure but I think the normal one doesn't have a hole, oldhippy. I'm not much into those springs, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the TR the one with the hole?

JD, I think you mean S6, in my very limited opinion, (I use S6 in my Seikos), and considering that D5 is an oil, I'd say, in consistency, moly is more akin to S6 which is a grease...Nevertheless, some places we use D5 and some others we use moly...S6 tends to be used everywhere where those two are used. Now, S4 is the black grease they put in the barrel and in the cam of the first reduction wheel where the weird cranking lever seats. That would call for a barrel grease, maybe with graphite to atone...but any barrel grease fit for autos, like 8217 will do I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

You are correct the T R is the one with the hole, but you need the normal one as I pointed out.

Problems that you might have if you pick the one with the hole, the hole won't be big enough so you will need a needle file and enlarge the hole,if you don't do it right and its off center the spring will not seat right in the barrel, it could also cause a weekness in the end of the spring.  If you are worried the spring looks a little high don't worry it has been working for a long time, also it is not a barrel cap as we know it, it doesn't snap on and seal the spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Not sure but I think the normal one doesn't have a hole, oldhippy. I'm not much into those springs, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the TR the one with the hole?

JD, I think you mean S6, in my very limited opinion, (I use S6 in my Seikos), and considering that D5 is an oil, I'd say, in consistency, moly is more akin to S6 which is a grease...Nevertheless, some places we use D5 and some others we use moly...S6 tends to be used everywhere where those two are used. Now, S4 is the black grease they put in the barrel and in the cam of the first reduction wheel where the weird cranking lever seats. That would call for a barrel grease, maybe with graphite to atone...but any barrel grease fit for autos, like 8217 will do I guess.

e70098f258a71bcf89af9ea0c6ae5278.jpg

From Canada

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is a hole on the Arbor end and a doubled back leaf on the barrel part...that hooks onto the barrel wall. Correct. PS: I realize that I am like a 3 year old with all my questions, however, if you need to know anything about aerospace or guitars or card and coin magic, just ask.

From Canada

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      The epilame under the oil will also be removed 
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
    • Michael1962
      I'm going to be setting up a decent little workshop here at home.

      By Michael1962 · Posted

      Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...