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Replacing Spring on Vintage German Pocket Watch

jdrichard
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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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I was given this pocket watch (in photo) from my father-in-law and I have taken oth the barrel by pushing a lever that moved a gear away from the mainspring barrel and then unscrewing the barrel screw and sliding it out the side. Question is, where do I get a new mainspring for this fine old watch.ee3fafd484b40ca01be096a356352243.jpgf2d36c9f5e48da8e27358f1787cad6ae.jpgf06e18860441075681f2ee12a09149c5.jpge956100fa7d24e79948929e6c791d5d2.jpgb56acc51fa6ab425a299891b6fbf9fa8.jpg712f8415f93db74ec26c7964f148caab.jpg

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

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Measure the height width and strength of the old spring and also the barrel's diameter.   As bobm12 has said try Cousins, but there are many suppliers you can look for on the web.

Edited by oldhippy
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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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19 minutes ago, jdrichard said:

So i went to the Web site and it says the mainspring is as follows:

Mainspring / battery

Zf3568, 2.10 x 16.0 x 0.20 x 460mm

Not sure what these numbers mean. Sorry for the ignorance, but help. And then where to buy.

As mentioned, Cousins  has it. 

GR6095 £7.30
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bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

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Not sure but I think the normal one doesn't have a hole, oldhippy. I'm not much into those springs, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the TR the one with the hole?

JD, I think you mean S6, in my very limited opinion, (I use S6 in my Seikos), and considering that D5 is an oil, I'd say, in consistency, moly is more akin to S6 which is a grease...Nevertheless, some places we use D5 and some others we use moly...S6 tends to be used everywhere where those two are used. Now, S4 is the black grease they put in the barrel and in the cam of the first reduction wheel where the weird cranking lever seats. That would call for a barrel grease, maybe with graphite to atone...but any barrel grease fit for autos, like 8217 will do I guess.

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

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You are correct the T R is the one with the hole, but you need the normal one as I pointed out.

Problems that you might have if you pick the one with the hole, the hole won't be big enough so you will need a needle file and enlarge the hole,if you don't do it right and its off center the spring will not seat right in the barrel, it could also cause a weekness in the end of the spring.  If you are worried the spring looks a little high don't worry it has been working for a long time, also it is not a barrel cap as we know it, it doesn't snap on and seal the spring.

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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Not sure but I think the normal one doesn't have a hole, oldhippy. I'm not much into those springs, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the TR the one with the hole?

JD, I think you mean S6, in my very limited opinion, (I use S6 in my Seikos), and considering that D5 is an oil, I'd say, in consistency, moly is more akin to S6 which is a grease...Nevertheless, some places we use D5 and some others we use moly...S6 tends to be used everywhere where those two are used. Now, S4 is the black grease they put in the barrel and in the cam of the first reduction wheel where the weird cranking lever seats. That would call for a barrel grease, maybe with graphite to atone...but any barrel grease fit for autos, like 8217 will do I guess.

e70098f258a71bcf89af9ea0c6ae5278.jpg

From Canada

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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There is a hole on the Arbor end and a doubled back leaf on the barrel part...that hooks onto the barrel wall. Correct. PS: I realize that I am like a 3 year old with all my questions, however, if you need to know anything about aerospace or guitars or card and coin magic, just ask.

From Canada

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