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By HectorLooi · Posted
Maybe because I have a spot welder, my prefered method has always been to spot weld another piece cut off from an old mainspring. -
Hi, I've serviced a Tissot 2481 movement which had a broken mainspring, I used the following from Cousins a GR 2973X mainspring which fitted with no issues. Your issue is a common problem that is often mentioned on this site, that you source a mainspring that matches your original mainspring dimensions but on arrival the mainspring eyelet doesn't match your arbor, generally too open. Regards CJ
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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Two ways in which i tighten up the inner coil. 1st which has always worked up to now when the spring is new or very good shape, a brass/wooden rod inside the coil to press against, i just use small pliers to manipulate the spring. The wooden rod has that extra give so you can overcompensate with your bend to allow for the steel's elasticity. If you want less breakage risk then anneal just the arbor coil, then reharden and temper when you have the shape you want. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Hi watch people, what would be the preferred method here , pros and cons ? The options are 1. a riveted end piece 2. A loose piece fitted into a formed socket 3. Bend and crimp the end of the mainspring to be used. I've started to experiment with a piece of mainspring cut from the one that i am going to use to replace the original set spring taken from an Oris 291 pic2. old spring left, new uncut spring on the right. My first attempt is idea no. 3 which seems to be the easiest to carry out. I'm not quite sure what the spring is made from, it has a slight gold tinge colour to it, but it was easy to anneal and double over. The original spring has been modified by a prevo ( previous repairer ) picture 3, this has a piece riveted to it. The spring I'm going to replace it with was too long but the profile dimensions matched up, the bridle on it is factory doubled over and punched pic1. I'm optomistic that the remaining shape of the replacement will be ok 🤞 😅 . After annealing the end of the test piece, it's then shaped with a slight taper to both sides and a knife edge at it's tip created to help catch the barrel wall ledge pic4 then folded over pic5 and pressed tight at the fold to crimp it pic6. shows the original modified riveted spring top and the test piece ready to reharden below it.The shaping is to overcome any error that may occur with squaring up with the mainspring after folding, tbh probably not necessary as the steel is soft enough to easily straighten up. The end is then rehardened and tempered to light blue. Next attempt is to rivet a piece, a lot more accuracy I'm sure will be required here.
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