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The Seiko was very much an impulse buy - from Samuels of all places - I don't pretend to understand their marketing practices for a mo but I guess they know what they are doing - to decode, Samuels were selling the Kinetic Perpetual in the picky for £499.99 - then decided that that price was outside their Corporate range (the Manager of our local store who is such a nice friendly lass told me so) - so Samuels stop stocking the Seiko Perpetual range and sell Citizen KPs instead which are significantly cheaper (their perpetuals are still VG I feel sure) - so anyway, Samuels had a 50%-off fire sale on their remaining stocks of Seiko KPs - £249.99 so I weakened and got the last one in our local store. Lovely thing - movement made by Seiko at their Tokyo factory and the case and bracelet by their HK factory but hey, nowt wrong with that. Re. the AT . got that on 5 years interest free with a Japanese finance co - 15% deposit and £50 pcm but having given up the tabs I can stretch to that :) 

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Well worn the Omega for just over a week - very mixed feelings - I think it is the best Omega have made for many a year but I have misgivings:-

  • it is a big fat heavy thing !
  • no quickset - Omega have tried to make a virtue out of the 'time - zone' feature (like the 1342 Ha!) but is it really onerous to pull the stem to pos 2 and change the date ?? (are there tech probs providing a quickset meccy on the 8500 I wonder? - BTW Peops say the same about the new Globemaster)
  • Should have made the dial a tad smaller and profiled the edges of the case nicely - you don't see the edges from the promotional photos but it looks cheapish to me in the flesh and reminiscent of the tat that Omega made in the 70's, 80's, 90's, 20's et al
  • Hands are too fat - hour hand looks like the end has fallen off !
  • Date window - like the trapezoid shape but it it is dis-proportionally small !

Omega have got a lot right at long last but too much wrong still - relatively speaking IMHO, my new Seiko is an object lesson in making a case for a 35mm crystal

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Looks good in the promo piccys (it would I guess!) - there are no Omega dealers in the County I live in so one can't readily handle- looks nice head-on I admit and I think it is a good start (Like Rolex, Omega are starting to become very selective re. the 'ambiance' of the outlets that sell them - not good enough by Omega's new standards then the dealer won't be supplied with them anymore :( (Done the same with Audi cars in my County some years ago - no Audi dealers anymore)  

Edited by presto0906
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    • Personally I would just replace like for like.Or just polish the old crystal and refit.
    • I've also heard it called the "top side" and the dial side the "bottom side", which should make any non-repairer very confused. There are many examples and sometimes it comes down to personal preference. Personally, I like to say "dial train" whereas most other people would use the term "motion works".
    • Is magnetism such a major problem that we (as home hobbyists) need to spend $$$ on a fancy demagnetiser? I use one of the cheap blue Chinese demagnetisers (£10 from ebay). It works, and has never failed to demagnetise a movement, or my screwdrivers. Magnetometer - who needs one?  Take a very small screw. If it sticks to the clean part, it is magnetised 🤣
    • My overall preference is to use traditional names and terms, that became my habit when i was taught joinery by old boy chippies 2 generations older than me , that had their time in the 40's. But what i often do is adjust the names and terms i use according to who I'm talking with. Sometimes i will say trainside and occasionally watchmaker's side. I try to find a balance between accommodating other folk ( there's no point speaking a foreign language to someone who doesn't understand it ) and using a name that appears to me to be more relevant as to its use or description. But using the name lever can be quite confusing,  some watches might have parts that are also levers, release levers, which in effect is what the pallet fork is, an escapement release lever. 
    • Then put the case number in here https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/search-seiko-case-parts and it should give you the crown 
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