Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

As a great fan of this forum and the openness and frank opinions of the members I would like to seek your advice on my next project. 

 

Craftsmanship and engineering is in the family blood and my very young grandson is already showing these trends with his curiosity and wanting to take things apart !   I have excellent hand-made items by each generation back to to his great-grandfather and would like to add my own. 

I have a few bits but nothing that he would set great stall to, so I have decided to assemble a good quality watch for him as he does like messing with my nominal value ones. My son also appreciates fine watches and would be a good custodian and would add his own timepiece no doubt.

Unfortunately I do not have the skills or equipment to make from scratch but have been fixing and servicing watches since retiring over 10 years ago, so I have sufficient skills to build a watch from parts. 

 

I want to build a 'new' watch that will be unique to me and not refurbish an old one (I've got a couple of those already).

I am currently looking at an Ickler Case (stainless/gold with sapphire glasses) which will fit an ETA 2824-2 movement, adding my own choice of dial and hands, and finish with a good brand quality strap or bracelet. Don't want chrono just simple time and date or day/date.

 

My main concern is the movement re the ETA future parts/service issues.  Do I go for the brand name/quality and live with the lack of parts etc issue, or go for something that has similar quality and parts availability into the future. I will probably get some spares in hand such as mainspring/stem etc.  An alternative I am considering is Sellita SW200-1 or Sellita SW220-1 which can directly replace the ETA without case modification.

 

Your views/comments/suggestions would be most appreciated.

Posted

Thanks stroppy,  Nice site and some interesting stuff.  I still plan to go new as I want it to be of 'today' not of a past era.  I already have some vintage Omega, Seiko, Rotary etc but I want something more unique that nobody else will have or will have had (just like the other stuff from my past family).  Thanks for your interest and I hope you understand my thinking.

Posted

Hi canthus,

 

I would go for the ETA. If anything will stand the test of time is the movement you have in mind: ETA 2824-2. This is by no means a new movement but one that has stood the test of time. It is not as finicky as the 2892A2 which makes it easier to fix and worst case scenario, being so popular, will have one way or another many parts available even if ETA goes under (let's hope it never happens)...and then you have the other clones that in a pinch may supply the needed part when/if it ever needs it. So, there you have it: my 2 cents on the matter! 

 

I would suggest that if at all possible, being for the purpose you stated, try to get the best version you can -- they come in 4 finishes -- and of course, brand new.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted (edited)

Hi bobm12,   Thanks for your reply. 

I have heard of these different finishes but have no idea what they actually represent, any info ? 

I am also looking for a possible source other than Cousins in UK which have them available, but I don't know what finish it is other than it is in a sealed pack (ie not loose packed)?

Edited by canthus
Posted (edited)

Thanks bobm12, Will have to scout around and see what i can find.

 

Thanks jdm, These are the Ickler cases I fancy as they seem to be very good quality with sapphire glasses.

 

For those interested Here is a link I also found which shows many options for ETA cases, dials and hands.

 

http://shop.sk-watchparts.com/epages/Starck_Andreas44894456.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Starck_Andreas44894456/Categories/Edelstahlgeh%C3%A4use

Edited by canthus
Posted

Definitely go for the ETA don't believe your have any real issues with obtaining parts. As bobm12 says their reliable and can be worked on with greater ease.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Posted

Thank you both: jdm and canthus for the links.

 

My opinion is that both links for watch cases are fine but in my mind they are both essentially 5 atm cases. Other than design, I would love to have more input about case choices and materials employed for this special watch you are making (maybe higher atm rating?)...

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • First of all, thank you for the pdf file of the book on how to replace a gem. So, if there is a problem with the ruby in the movement, should I buy a new or used movement and replace it? When I watch videos on YouTube of people fixing used watches, I feel like there should be a way to buy a gem. Is there no way to buy it?
    • I suppose @donutdan is not forced to earn his living by repairing watches.  I suppose he does it as a hobby and wants to gain experience, to get better in watchmaking and time is not the issue. Then @donutdan should rather try to repair the damage instead of swap parts from a maybe intact other movement. Swapping parts is not watchmaking. And often swapped parts are not the expected solution of all problems. All mentioned damages are repairable. Frank  
    • Yeah I figured that one out when I googled and realized that my spindle is actually from Horia. It's smooth with no screwable cap.
    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
×
×
  • Create New...