Jump to content

Horotec Two Stage Crystal Press Problems


SSTEEL

Recommended Posts

Don't know if I am alone in this, but I have experienced issues with the Horotec two stage crystal press, the first time using it, the shaft that has a secondary finer thread snapped off, so contacted cousins, and they sent me a replacement shaft saying its the first they have experienced this.

 

Now the replacement has broken now too, several months later.  I'm not using the press incorrectly, its just that the secondary finer threaded shaft gets stuck, and I have to use a pair of pliers to undo it so it will retract, but the latest time, the darn thing snapped off just like the first.

 

I will be contacting Horotec directly regarding this, as surely this is a manufacturer problem with the quality of parts.

 

Just wondering if any of you guys have experienced the same?

 

This is the product..

 

11946768405_418e3c59e8_b.jpg

 

Screw Closing Press (Two Stage), Horotec - Cousins UK

 

And this is the end result..

 

25625778640_f751932751_k.jpghorotec two stage press broken by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an Indian copy of this press, without the finer feature. Unrelated to the problem exposed I would not recommend it because to its design it flexes easily. There are similar ones on which the pillars are lined up with the screw, which is much better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Alaskamick,

 

Micky is having issues with the bottom part of the press that should move contrary to the effect of the main shaft which in turn screws down to exert the pressure. The effect of both the main shaft and the bottom part with their opposite movement makes the press to appear to exert a steady, downward force without friction on the pressed item. The part that is breaking is binding, i.e. not turning when it should. It should be definitely a manufacturer's thing. I would try and alleviate the problem by putting some grease there but it should not happen.

 

This press can be used for both, case and/or crystal and comes with double duty dies. I have a Witschi equivalent which uses the same dies but I haven't had any issues with that one. The price was about the same (when I bought it) now it is almost double.

 

wit19000-08.jpg

Some other presses are sold as "dedicated" for crystals only (which I think is more like a marketing thing rather than their true application...a press is a press anyway!) an example would be the Bergeon 5500 which used to be listed as either crystal press only or back & crystal press depending on the site. Maybe the distinction is made in dependence of how "level" or precise they are when exerting pressure...then the cheapo ones can not be crystal presses I suppose.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

PS. Sorry Micky, I don't have that press model so I can't really say anything of help in your case! I hope the issues are resolved to your satisfaction...without further expenses. Cheers!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Got a reply from Horotec :)

Dear Sir,

 
I noted your problem with our MSA 07.150 (two-stages press). 
 
We know this problem and found a solution with a new two-stages shaft.
 
I will send you this part in a few days and I hope you will not have any problem with this Horotec tool.
 
Best regards
 
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a reply from Horotec [emoji4]

Dear Sir,

  I noted your problem with our MSA 07.150 (two-stages press).    We know this problem and found a solution with a new two-stages shaft.   I will send you this part in a few days and I hope you will not have any problem with this Horotec tool.   Best regards  

That's a great result Mickey. It's nice to know that Horotec cares for their customers.

Thanks for sharing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/19/2016 at 10:55 AM, jdm said:

I have an Indian copy of this press, without the finer feature. Unrelated to the problem exposed I would not recommend it because to its design it flexes easily. There are similar ones on which the pillars are lined up with the screw, which is much better.

Got one of these too. It flexes as supplied because the bore of the pillars is too much in excess of the bolt diameters. Just unscrew the thing, wrap a single layer of insulation tape around the un-threaded portion of the bolts - and reassemble. You will find its now rock-solid - sorted :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, presto0906 said:

Got one of these too. It flexes as supplied because the bore of the pillars is too much in excess of the bolt diameters. Just unscrew the thing, wrap a single layer of insulation tape around the un-threaded portion of the bolts - and reassemble. You will find its now rock-solid - sorted :)

Good that tape worked for you.. In my opinion it simply can't be used for glasses, and in fact isn't sold for that. I have since then got a real heavy one. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, jdm said:

Good that tape worked for you.. In my opinion it simply can't be used for glasses, and in fact isn't sold for that. I have since then got a real heavy one. 

Totally agree - I bought it solely to re-fit 'snap-on' case backs - and after the tape mod it does this perfectly OK. They are often advertised as also being a crystal press but in my view the item is not robust enough for that purpose.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Did you have a look under the ballance? Often the movement maker/number is hidden there.
    • I wonder if 9415 is based on a base oil of 941? it's interesting what questions bring and the tech sheet answers it's the viscosity of the base oil. Then the impact? There is something we're missing here for that which would have a big influence on all of the house image above is 9514 image below is 941.then always interesting when specifications do not exactly agree? They ledge above for 941 indicates 110 viscosity but the image off the spec sheet is slightly less but I guess close enough   my understanding of the concern of too much 9415 is as we know the loss of amplitude. But why do we have a loss of amplitude? So impact it's basically oil should be very slippery. But what about non-impact? Like the edges of the escape wheel? Another thing that comes to play here is the shape of the escape wheel itself. Notice on the last a more vintage escape wheel with just a flat surface whereas the modern escape wheels usually made out of steel versus grass much much thinner their contact areas greatly been reduced and sometimes I think there even slightly curved. So is it conceivable at everything that isn't a flat surface on impact is going to be sticky? So this is where the shape of the escape wheel will have a big impact literally on how slippery things are. Oh and for all of you obsessed with worrying about too much 9415 I never worry about it because typically I'm doing pocket watches and it doesn't seem to be an issue at all. on the other hand I'm much more concerned about a watch that keeps time for 24 hours as opposed to the concern of the group of keeping amplitude for 24 hours. Then yes some pocket watches have steel escape wheels and do look like the escape wheel on the right.   
    • your balance wheel looks interesting in the watch and because it's at an angle it's changing things a little bit. in other words they hairspring is not centered between the regulator pin in the boot and I also noticed your terminal curve is lacking apparently by design? Because if you look in the second image you'll notice yes there's a terminal curve but not as aggressive a one as you normally see on watches at least most watches.   then in all of your images it looks like the boot isn't quite back where it's supposed to be? out of curiosity how did you remove your balance complete and clear the regulator pin? then just in case you weren't aware it rotates out of the way so you can remove the balance complete without bending the pin. Then it's rotated back exactly 90° and yours looks like it's off by just a little bit in the original image and I'm assuming that you just been the pin out of the way? it's always interesting in horology is the variations in the things. Like the image I have above does have a terminal curve but not the most aggressive and yours is even less but that is the way the watch was made. Then the spacing between the regulator pin in the boot should be relatively small basically if you had two pieces of the thickness of your hairspring that's how much space should be there like in this image. But oftentimes watch manufacturers do not necessarily follow the rules  
    • Yep i can see where you're going with that one Rich.  Sooo now that I've frightened the OP into submission 😁. Chief i do apologise for some reason unbeknown to myself I'm in a happy silly mood. So seriously to identify the movement lets have a look at the dial side, learning this part is straightforward, just need a little logic and something called the # BESTFIT BOOKS # . Or the other non American equivalents. 
    • I can definitely see elephant and aardvark and possibly some sort of bird with a large beak 🤣 anyway I'll have a go of getting it flipped over tonight and send some pics
×
×
  • Create New...