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Remove Extra Links From Tag Heuer Link Band


stevegnh

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Hi All,

 

I've scoured the internet and been unlucky in solving this question for myself. Then I found this forum, and I always find they are terrific resources.

Anyway, I have a 10 year old Tag Heuer Link automatic chronograph watch. I love it, but in the last year, I've lost a bunch of weight, and it's way too big now. I have removed all of the easily removable links (where you can slide the pins out), but even with all of them out, it's too large and can spin around on my wrist. Is there any way to remove two more links, one from each side? Is this something that requires custom work for a jeweler or someone to drill them out or something? I love the watch but don't wear it much because it's so loose.

Thank you for any advice you can offer.

 

 

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That's a nice watch and good quality pictures Steve.

I don't think there is an easy way of removing these links, I think the ends of the pins are welded to the links, hopefully someone can confirm this. The links that you need to remove would have to be destroyed by grinding the welds away before the pins could be knocked out.

I may be completely wrong, and would like to here another opinion.

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None of the links on that model of tag have a split pin/pin or tube, etc, they're all fastened inside of the link itself, you punch out the pin and remove the tube securing the bracelet to the clasp, on whatever side you wish to adjust, one side of the first exposed link will slide off, then a screw is exposed you have to undo that screw and take each link apart individually. 

Ah I see, Chainstay beat me to it, with helpful videos as well. 

Edited by Ishima
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Oh man, now I remember! Call me D-U-M-B. I totally forgot how the Tag band was setup. Once you mentioned the screws Ishima, it all came back to me! The band is infinitely adjustable, not a certain amount of links. I just pulled our one link, and increased the micro adjust on the clasp out one, and it's perfect. I love tihis watch, but since losing 50 pounds, it was fitting any more and I've been bummed. One thing though, that I never got, was that little screw on the tube. Seems like you don't actually have to unscrew it, as the link just comes off it. It's slightly larger than the tube itself. I don't know, but they are all like that.

 

The only other thing that bugs me is since the last service, I noticed the crystal isn't laying flat. It's raised on one side, and flush with the bezel on the other. I've thought about buying a watch repair glass press, to push it out, put a new gasket/ring in, and press it back in, but I'm wondering if I'm better off just getting a watch repair place to do that. You can kind of see it, but not sure it would show in a picture.

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    • I see Mark has sorted this one out. 
    • We need to identify the movement to help you, but the oldest of these Rolco watches use Aegler-Rebberg movements that lack a calibre number and are very difficult to identify. You may end up having to make or modify a stem to fit . Post pictures of both sides of the movement when you have it and the size of the movement and hopefully it’s one that has a calibre number.  Gruen used a lot of the same Aegler movements at the time and it’s worth comparing your movement with those if you can’t find it labeled as an Aegler or Rolex/Rolco calibre. Best Regards, Mark  
    • Onlly a pro's eye would notice that OH, you've still got it old fella 🙂
    • The triple lobed spring, as you suggest needs to be rotated to remove it or replace it. Suitably shaped pegwood should suffice, but tools (shaped as you describe) for the purpose also exist.  If you have an assorted of replacement springs, a trilobe style KIF spring of the right size might fit.  The other spring securing the jewel also needs rotating. There is a slight opening in the setting at about the 5 o’clock position in your photo and one side of the spring should be able to be removed  there when rotated into position.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • As an update, it transpired the setting on the balance side, with the jewel had one flat end and one curved. When I rotated it enough it popped out. The chaton was entirely conical and a tricky customer but once lubricated and dropped back in I put the flat edge in first and poked it in with the peg wood tool mentioned above (I made it with flattening off the end then sizing with a pencil sharpener before poking a hole in the end) then rotated and it went in well.    For the other side, magnet searching for the spring has been fruitless.    thanks for the link to the other thread
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