Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All , the postman delivered a couple of packages today that I really have been waiting for....it made a beautiful Hawaiian Day even better .

 I received a Marathon GSAR . Manufactured in Jan. 2007 , it doesn't look a day over Jan. 2014 .

 

http://watchreport.com/review-of-the-marathon-gsar/

 

I received the watch with no band connected . Someone had colored the bezel red . In that package I also received a new bezel insert and a nylon Nato strap .

 

post-808-0-92810700-1450411063_thumb.png

 

post-808-0-76605400-1450411095_thumb.png

 

post-808-0-08345400-1450411123_thumb.png

 

In the other package I received a very Nice , well made , heavy duty Shark mesh strap . It came in a very large size but is adjustable with removable link sections joined with machined screws and posts . The whole bracelet is made well .

 

post-808-0-59684700-1450411010_thumb.png

 

After installing the new bezel insert , [thick aluminum ] , and installing and adjusting the new bracelet , we have this...

 

Voila....

 

post-808-0-15071600-1450411151_thumb.jpg

 

post-808-0-98759700-1450411176_thumb.jpg

 

post-808-0-39608500-1450411201_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

my jealousy meter just pegged. what a find. you got a beauty. i'm not familiar with these, but i'd like to get to know one.

who's movement is used?

 

i just want to know where do you find these gorgeous watches? perhaps i'm looking for another genre altogether.

Posted

my jealousy meter just pegged. what a find. you got a beauty. i'm not familiar with these, but i'd like to get to know one.

who's movement is used?

 

i just want to know where do you find these gorgeous watches? perhaps i'm looking for another genre altogether.

 

These have an Swiss ETA  2824 A2 movement . I have quite a few Seiko and Citizen divers ,....vintage and new  and I truly like them , but this government spec Marathon is the real deal . Check out the link On my post and it will give you the skinny on them . The Tritium illumination on them is interesting . and if you notice on the dial it has H3 , referring to the Hydrogen Isotope the the Tritium is derived from and the radio-active emblem that is required on the government issued watch .

  The Shark-mesh bracelet I got for it is killer. Very well made from the machined link posts and screws , to the heavy-duty deployment clasp .

 

 I have been wanting the GSAR ever since I first ran into them on ebay and have bid in at least 3 that I didn't win in the past . Those went for over $400 . I got this one for $380 , probably because it didn't look good with the red colored bezel , and didn't have a watchband . The aluminum bezel has  engraved indexes instead of printed .

Posted

ramrod
Watch Enthusiast

  • photo-thumb-836.jpg?_r=1449378732
  • Member
  • bullet_black.pngbullet_black.pngbullet_black.png
  • 81 posts
  • Locationdurham, nc

Posted Today, 05:38 PM

 

ramrod said :

" i just want to know where do you find these gorgeous watches? perhaps i'm looking for another genre altogether."

 

 

 

I look for Swiss Divers .

Posted

i read that watch report. wow. that is quite a watch. i'm just a tad put off by the busy dial and, as a consequence, the small numbers on the face. but, i'd own one in a second. very nice and built like an anvil, i'd imagine.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi. Would you please give me a brief write up on how to change out the bezel insert for this watch? I have had a SAR for almost 15 years and the insert is pretty neat down. I just received a new replacement that appears identical to the one in your photo but I have not found a good tutorial on removal of the original. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

Posted (edited)

First off , I used a retractable razor knife to get under the bezel , careful not to scratch the watch . After it started to lift , i used my case knife , which is not as sharp , to carefully go around the bezel to pry it off .

  Often times , looking from the inside of the bezel , if the insert overhangs the bezel I will try to pry it off using my crystal press if I have a disk of the right size . 

For this watch , that was not the case .  First I tried to use thumb pressure to rotate the insert to loosen the adhesive , and when that didn't work , I used a small beater screwdriver to slowly work a hole in the insert so I could get under it to start lifting it  . that worked and I removed the old insert . The insert is embossed , not printed , Aluminum , so taking my time to make the little hole just took patience .  Maybe you can put the bezel with the old insert in some hot water to loosen the adhesive first .

 

  When installing the new insert , put the bezel on first and give it a  few clicks to make sure it's on properly . It's uni-directional so it won't turn clockwise . Make sure it's in a set position so there's no movement clockwise and install the zero arrow at 12 o"clock .  I believe there should be a paper ring you have to remove to expose the adhesive on the insert . Only remove the top half where the arrow is so you can lightly lay the insert on the bezel to make sure you are satisfied with the placement of the arrow at 12 .

If it's good , hold the arrow at 12 and peel off the rest of the paper . Check it again before you press the insert fully to adhere to the bezel .

 

  You may choose not to remove your bezel to make the small hole in the aluminum , but the rest of the procedure is the same .  I removed it to clean around the glass and case .

Edited by ricardopalamino
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks. I will give the hot water a try. I tried to get under the insert with a couple different sized exacto knives with no luck...just boogered up the aluminum insert.

Posted

I have a Luminox that I got as an engagement gift from my soon to be wife- some 15 years ago.  That was also the watch that started me down the watch repair rabbit hole!  After 15 years the lume is quite faded-  It had amazing lume for at least the first 10 years.

 

 

Looks Great!

Posted

Thanks. I will give the hot water a try. I tried to get under the insert with a couple different sized exacto knives with no luck...just boogered up the aluminum insert.

 

Good luck with it . Post a pic later....

Posted

Well, I have to confess that Marathon's a new name to me. I don't go for divers watches, on the whole, but that's very nice - a good combination. Enjoy!

 

Cheers,

 

Will

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...