Jump to content

Regulator Adjustment...hints?


Recommended Posts

I am just starting out in my hobby of Watch Repair. I am curious if I could solicit any suggestions when it comes to adjusting the regulator on a watch. 

 

Not meaning timing the watch. I have my own approach to that. What I am specifically referring to is knowing how much to adjust the regulator. For instance is there an industry standard for how much time the tick marks on the regulator represent? Is there a trick like adjusting it over seeing the change and then dividing? And, is there a tool that is used (other than a piece of peg-wood)? Currently I am just doing it trial and error style. Adjust, observe, repeat....etc...etc.

 

Thanks

Rob

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think there can be a standard because each regulator is different. Sophisticated ones have micro regulation screws, others have nothing. When you have the movement in beat the needed motion is extremely small.

 

I think what matter most is that you use the tool that gives less chances to slip and hit the hairspring, and makes you more comfortable.  I do regulation with the watch or movement dial down on the timegrapher. To be honest I think that regulating without a timegrapher or equivalent application basically means wasting time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. I thought there was no standard but I wasn't sure if there was a rule of thumb...you know..."One tick equals about x Seconds". I have thought about modifying my digital caliper to give a more accurate means of adjusting the regulator (my current tool of choice is the plastic end of a thumb tack), I was just wondering if such a tool already existed. I am in the process of getting a Timegrapher, but in the mean time I figured they regulated watches before electricity, so there must be a way. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before I give you an answer on regulating a watch before timing machine a note regarding standards in horology. Watchmakers are interesting they adapted whatever they had so there aren’t a lot of standards at least up until now perhaps. So for instance look at measurements they grabbed whatever they had available. So we end up with a interesting mix of definitions for measurement. Like mainsprings measured in metric, inches and Dennison. Even then they didn’t just adopt one of those systems for the mainspring typically the length was in inches the width and strength in one of the other systems.

So I have a couple of books that reference adjusting a watch without a timing machine. One of them comments about the rumor you can adjust the watch in less than 24 hours but his experience was several days to weeks. He was adjusting to three positions.

Then my all-time favorite the watchmaker has a 17 jewel high-grade American pocket watch is adjusting it to basically very precise timekeeping. So goes through multiple pages describing the condition of the watch exactly what he did at various times telling us what the timekeeping was and how things are improving. So he starts February 4, 1896 and finishes April 17, 1896.  

So timing machine speeds up things considerably but you still need to run the watch for 24 hours and see what it really does. Timing machine tells you what the watch was doing at a exact instant the time. It doesn’t tell you what it’s going to do over 24 hours. Then if you’re really doing a good job first on the timing machine then run the watch 24 hours later back of the timing machine tto make sure it still doing what it’s supposed to be doing. Even this doesn’t exactly cut it because if it’s a wristwatch it should go on a wrist. Sometimes watches will keep beautiful time sitting on a safe bench, on somebody’s arm it will do something considerably different.

So some companies did have standards and they did publish them. So I’ve attached a Hamilton publication it does explain roughly what happens when you move things around to adjust things.
 

hamilton_tech_note_on_regulation.pdf

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's one beautiful timepiece! Love the big crown in proportion to the case. Perhaps a ladies' watch, but I don't think so. I have a "modern Ingersoll" watch, but it has nothing to do with the original brand (Miyota 9015 movement). Interesting synonym for synthetic oils! 😆 There is, of course, a limit to how large a volume of oil epilame can bind and hold in place. If the oleophobic effect is too strong then it can become a problem. I'm not sure where I heard or read it, but as I understand it, the active ingredient in a bottle of epilame is extremely small and more than 99% of the contents of the bottle is just a transfer agent. If the active ingredient becomes too concentrated, which it can become over time, or if the product is of poor quality, the oleophobic effect is amplified. This in turn causes the applied oil to look like a gummed-up ball on the surface of the treated part. If that happens, we know that the active ingredient has become too concentrated. What we want is for the oil to bind but not to the point where it is formed into an excessively round ball on the surface. The highlighted text in the patent that you refer to describes well the problem that can arise with too high a concentration of the active ingredient. However, I would be extremely surprised if the entire amount of oil leaves the treated surface as water on wax would. At present, I am convinced that the analogy between wax and water on the one hand and epilame and oil on the other is incorrect. Epilame is described as binding and that is also my absolute experience. Epilame probably has some repelling effect but that is not its main purpose and that is not how epilame is designed and works. The method of abrading the epilame treatment from the section of the pallet stones coming in contact with the escape wheel teeth seems after even more research to be well established, but if it actually works, if so how and why is beyond what I can currently understand. Perhaps it is just to do and trust that it is based on well-established experience. I am, after all, inclined to think so.
    • Sorry to jump in here, but I didn't want to start a new thread when there's already one regarding the second hand watch market. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking at when buying watches from eBay? I see loads on there for quite cheap, but after reading this thread I'm guessing they're all garbage and not worth the time? I recently bought an old Elco watch for 99p, just to practice on. I'm also really fond of the look of Services watches and Smiths Empire watches. I keep seeing them listed for around 5 or 6 pounds. Are they not worth the time buying? I'm not looking to sell watches to make a profit. I just want to buy watches I like the look of and wear them, but I also don't want to buy things that are going to be impossible to find parts for, or that have already been abused by someone else and broken beyond repair. Any tips?
    • I tried the Moebius 9415 from any sensible amount, down to microscopic a drop (or "super minimalistic"); the size of droplet which makes you really wonder why one would/should apply anything at all? But to no avail, consistently a lower amplitude compared to my Dr.Tillwich 1-3. Of course, as John mentioned above, the Dr.Tillwich 1-3, just like the Moebius 9010, likes to go somewhere else. Since short however, I'm the (proud?) owner of a bottle of Moebius Fixodrop. Can't say that I'm a proud owner of the 9415. So far, I haven't seen or discovered the "magic" of the 9415. Meanwhile, Moebius 🤣 has my money though.........
    • I used to be quite active on The Lotus Forum when I owned my Esprit. I was there for so long, Bibs asked me to be a moderator. I'm not sure how long I did that for, but I think I turned into the second longest serving moderator. When I 'handed back my keys', Bibs made me a Full Forum Member. Normally this is a paid membership. My reward I suppose for helping out for many years. Bibs (forum owner) is quite active on there and if I am not wrong, don't quote me in other words, I think he once said that the money from memberships didn't cover the running cost. He adds money himself to keep it going. Does Mark have any sort of subscription scheme on here? I'll admit that I never paid to be a member on TLF. I should have. I never did. I agree that it would be a good idea that there is some sort of contingency plan for this forum. I intend on becoming more active on here. Life has just been getting in the way recently. I enrolled on Mark's watch course and was keenly doing that, but even that has had to take a back seat for a while. I am looking forward to getting back into that and also starting to do work on the clocks that I have been amassing. To do that successfully, I see myself needing to lean on the other members here. If for whatever reason this forum was to close, I think a great many of us would struggle.
    • I think we are about there, if there were still lots out there then the cost of a watch from 5 years ago would be around the same as it is now (allowing for inflation). Given that the price has gone up several times over we can only assume that supply cannot keep up with demand so we must be at or past peak supply, especially if the trend continues. I see even places like Australia, Ukraine and even South America are selling watches on eBay, picking over their stocks, mixed in with fakes and Frankenwatches etc.
×
×
  • Create New...