Jump to content

I need to find a case for my movement.


Recommended Posts

Hello! Finally digging into my first repair. Watched Lessons 1-3 on WatchFix, so now I'm an expert! Ha. But there's one question that I haven't seen answered in these classes, or in other Youtube videos. How do you find the proper case for a watch?

I bought a cheap movement on ebay. Something that says it didn't run/for parts. I got it going, and now I'd like to actually wear it. It didn't come with a case. It did come with a really nicely worn dial. But I'm struggling on how to find the proper case for it. 

The movement is just a hair over 23mm. And the dial is just slightly over 25mm. It's just a standard manual watch, with the seconds hand down by the 6. What do I need to look for, or search for when looking for a case? I see people showing the dimensions of the outside of the case, but I don't see how that'll help me. I'd hate to buy a complete watch of the same caliber. And since there seems to be a lot of these movements on ebay without cases, the cases have to be somewhere, right?

I've seen plenty of complete watches with square faces. But this movement came with a round dial, so I'd like to find a round dial case. 

Also, if you end up sending me a link to a case that would work, would you mind "showing your work" on how you found that? 

Thanks! Enjoying this so far. Blow away by how small these things are. How the heck did they make these things to begin with? Ha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing is standardized in watchmaking. So each combination of movement and dial requires its own case in terms of dimensions. You have to be more than lucky to find a matching case for your movement and dial.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if suppliers still do this, because I have been retired for years. All you needed was the cal number of the movement say if you wanted white metal or gold plated and give as much info as you could such as description of the dial, seconds hand center or other and they would send a case that would fit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Kalanag said:

Nothing is standardized in watchmaking. So each combination of movement and dial requires its own case in terms of dimensions. You have to be more than lucky to find a matching case for your movement and dial.

 

Makes sense. I was hoping that since movement's pretty much follow a similar layout, was hoping fitting cases was similar too. Haven't really seen anyone explain how cases work, other than a brief mention in videos as they are taken them apart. 

Besides eBay, are there any other sites that are good for buying used watch parts? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I don't know if suppliers still do this, because I have been retired for years. All you needed was the cal number of the movement say if you wanted white metal or gold plated and give as much info as you could such as description of the dial, seconds hand center or other and they would send a case that would fit. 

Which suppliers would have done this? I've not heard of this before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/7/2024 at 6:38 AM, woody24 said:

...And since there seems to be a lot of these movements on ebay without cases, the cases have to be somewhere, right?
 

Sorry to ruin You idea how the world works...

Some of the cases get worn and good for nothing, and gold plated ones go to the acid and only the golden 'skin' is what lefts... That is what modern gold diggers do.  There is plenty of naked movements but no cases for them at all.

Edited by nevenbekriev
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, nevenbekriev said:

Sorry to ruin You idea how the world works...

Some of the cases get worn and good for nothing, and gold plated ones go to the acid and only the golden 'skin' is what lefts... That is what modern gold diggers do.  There is plenty of naked movements but no cases for them at all.

That's perfectly fine. I just wasn't expecting it to be a near-impossible task. I was assuming that even if the originals are gone, I'd be able to buy a new case. I wasn't sure how cases work. I figured there may have been a handful of different ways they mount in, but as long as you have dimensions, you could find one. Like crystals and mainsprings. 

It's no real loss. Bought this movement just to see if I could get it running. It's a Longines 23z movement. Figured since it came with the dial, would be fun to make a fully functional watch. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, there is plenty of cases for Seiko movements that people use to assemble their own custom watches. You can use such case, but will have to make custom spacer ring and all the things needed to 'mary' the movement with the case, which is not so somple task

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/7/2024 at 4:38 AM, woody24 said:

And since there seems to be a lot of these movements on ebay without cases, the cases have to be somewhere, right?

Sold for scrap in hard times, melted down to make jewellery maybe even into another watch case at some point ?

56 minutes ago, woody24 said:

That's perfectly fine. I just wasn't expecting it to be a near-impossible task. I was assuming that even if the originals are gone, I'd be able to buy a new case. I wasn't sure how cases work. I figured there may have been a handful of different ways they mount in, but as long as you have dimensions, you could find one. Like crystals and mainsprings. 

It's no real loss. Bought this movement just to see if I could get it running. It's a Longines 23z movement. Figured since it came with the dial, would be fun to make a fully functional watch. 

Its more than just inside diameter and height sizes,  lip to support the dial dimensions, spacer ring around the movement to keep it stable, stem hole position, tube size. Sounds like fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
    • one of the problems we have is visible versus invisible. For instance millennium disulfide another high pressure lubricant black in color. I was told by somebody worked for the Boeing company that they had a piston like device somewhere that has eight call it around it to grab it so it has to slide and in the collet has to grab. But if somebody puts that type of dry grease on where grease with that in it it embeds itself basically in the metal and they have to throw the whole part away they get use it all. So I suspect on all the dry powdery lubricants that they will go into all the basically microscopic cracks and crannies of the metaland that's where it is visually at least until you scrub it off your visually going to see it which is good because you want your lubrication the stay word is. But I'm sure it doesn't last forever on the metal it's just a really nice lubrication  
    • Thanks for the info. I can't seem to find tech sheets for those either.  I'll muddle my way though 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...