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Anyone Worked On A Seiko 7T34 Quartz Movement?

ro63rto

By ro63rto
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

Posted
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Couldn't resist this for mere lunch money.

tapatalk_144140398204_edit_1441442036662

Was sold as a non runner but was hopeful it just needed a reset but as soon as I opened it I saw this.

2015-09-07%2015.13.26.png

See the brown/burn mark on the plate?

On top if that there's the simple issue of 2 sticking buttons.

Is it worth delving into the movement to start testing and replacing coils/circuits or is there a cheapish source of NOS movements?

Edited by ro63rto
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GeorgeClarkson
GeorgeClarkson

I second all that, plus be careful not to press down the back plate too much or the pivots will break easily. Finding a battered watch with working movement is the common solution, but the 7t34 is a r

ro63rto
ro63rto

Looks like I have another 7t34 needing George's skill. First I'm going to find out if spare links are available as it is sized for a child's wrist [emoji20] Seiko 7t34-0aa0 with inner sliding scal

Andyclient
Andyclient

The good thing about refitting the hands is that you don't need to be that accurate as you can just zero them after with the buttons which makes life a lot easier

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Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

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Looks like it will be very similar to the 7t32 I worked on a couple of years ago. The gears look like plastic sequins and are a pain in the a##se to work with. It is worth having a go just for the experience if nothing else. I did get the one I had working, but would not want to do one again. The hands are also very fiddly to fit, and there are plenty of them.

I wish you the best of luck!

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Andyclient Super WRT Addict

Andyclient

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Thanks Geo. Yes, that's a daunting amount of hands to refit [emoji20]

Hopefully just a quick contact clean on the circuit or a duff coil.

The good thing about refitting the hands is that you don't need to be that accurate as you can just zero them after with the buttons which makes life a lot easier
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GeorgeClarkson Super WRT Addict

GeorgeClarkson

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Did someone call me? :D I have a similar Seiko 7T34-6A90 which I repaired and now works flawlessly. Problems with these movements (as the whole 7Txx series) is that they are very hard to put back together, being 90% of the parts in plastic and very easily broken.. 

 

Check a post I made about the 7T32 movement (structurally similar to the 7T34) on another forum, with links to my videos where I tear it down:

 

http://www.seiko7a38.com/apps/forums/topics/show/13166499-deep-inside-a-7t32-or-shiojiri-y182b-movement

 

Hope you manage to find an donor 7T34 movement, since I believe your PCB is long dead... and probably the coils too. The coils are the same as the one on 7T32 movements, so you can find them easily.

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ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

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Did someone call me? :D I have a similar Seiko 7T34-6A90 which I repaired and now works flawlessly. Problems with these movements (as the whole 7Txx series) is that they are very hard to put back together, being 90% of the parts in plastic and very easily broken..

Check a post I made about the 7T32 movement (structurally similar to the 7T34) on another forum, with links to my videos where I tear it down:

http://www.seiko7a38.com/apps/forums/topics/show/13166499-deep-inside-a-7t32-or-shiojiri-y182b-movement

Hope you manage to find an donor 7T34 movement, since I believe your PCB is long dead... and probably the coils too. The coils are the same as the one on 7T32 movements, so you can find them easily.

Morning and thanks for the link.

Yeah, been reading as much as I can find about these movements.

Saw a pic of one half apart and was surprised at the amount of plastic used.

Were they in cahoots with Swatch in those times???

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bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

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Thanks for the link George. I'm on my way to check it out! I've always wondering about those movements, not being a fan of extra buttons on the watch but very much interested on these Seikos particular beauty. Somehow they have found a way not to make the extra buttons deter from the watch looks...for people with my taste, of course.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

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loetch New Member

loetch

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If your circuit is burnt then getting a replacement will be a challenge.  Seiko designated the same  circuits with a letter after the number A and B. The difference was the position of the holes on the circuit matching up with the plastic posts on the movement.  This watch is a challenge to work on but not overly so. It's amazing how all the gears fall into place when the cover is put back on. Look for bent staffs on the rotors.  Down the rabbit hole.

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GeorgeClarkson Super WRT Addict

GeorgeClarkson

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BTW I also found another foult in this movement: the spring that acts on the clutch (in the image at the center, bottom) so that one can adjust the time or the date should force against a plastic post on the base plate, which is broken. This causes that the quick date setting is not possible, but it is still possible to set the hour correctly. The plastic post should be at the end of the "U" formed by the metal spring.

 

I do not have another base plate for the 7T34 movement among my spares, which apparently almost 50% suffered this fate. I do not have the means to rebuild this plate (I would have to glue or solder a similarly shaped post on the plastic base plate) so I guess this this movement will be used only just for spares, and not to rebuild a complete watch, as I hoped.

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ro63rto Distinguished Member

ro63rto

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Picking up from a while ago, I had put this one away until such time that I could have a permanent work area.

This still hasn't happened BUT I did keep my eye out for cheap spares etc.

Got another 6a00 in well used condition hoping for something usable.

Soon as I opened it......

20160630_112133.jpg

Can you see it [emoji35]

Oh well, hopefully other parts are usable. Might just have to get down on my knees and beg Mr G Clarkson to make one good one from these two if possible as my eyes seem to be getting worse [emoji20]

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rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

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Have a lot of parts. I am not hundred % with you on the plastic parts . But can have a check how my plates look. Have many coils and gears from an old watchmakers estate lying around so that i can fix? 

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rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

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Have a lot stuff. But i am not sure exactly which part u are looking for. On my parts it's says Y157A  or Y152A but they work in my 7T34 . 

Or is it the part that is on top? 

Base plate i have a few of those? 

But i don't think i want to tinker with it? 

Send me a picture and i can at least see if any of my plates is good. Say Y157A at the box . 

DSC06640.JPGDSC06639.JPG

Edited by rogart63
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    • HectorLooi
      Battery

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • Murks
      Battery

      By Murks · Posted

      A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      Yes I understand that. What I’m asking is, after the hands have been fitted, it’s been checked that the hands do not touch etc. then I need to remove the stem to fit the movement in the case. I have the push type, I need to turn it upside down and push the setting lever post and pull the stem out. But of course the dial and hands are in place and I have a glossy dial with lume dots and I do not want to cause any damage while it’s upside down pushing on the post of the setting lever.
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