Jump to content

My Smith Astral clock does not Wind.


Recommended Posts

An overwound clock stored for 20 years. I tried to bring it back to life and I used electric contacts cleaner (Spray) 
I sprayed where the Windinding key hole is.

It started working and it lasted for a week when it stopped.
I re-wound it and 2 days later it stopped- I tried to re-wind it but it does not wind.
It rotates, I can hear the clicking sound, however it does not wind (it keeps rotating without producing difficulty in the winding).

Hard to find repair shops in Greece and I was wondering if it may be feasible for me to try to repair it (if it does not require sepcial skills or parts).

Any suggestions are welcome.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi restored a couple of these movements this year. They are very well made with a balance escapement (see pic).

The movement will need stripping down, cleaning and lubrication. Also the balance assembly needs stripping, cleaning and lubrication.IMG_8045.thumb.jpeg.c8435be87a9104fd8cf76fbc95818b52.jpegIMG_8032.thumb.jpeg.d69f029457c0af4ebc5cc06bc413dff7.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there is no short cut to fixing clocks in the state you describe ( overwound),  this is a state when the mainspring is wound tight and either because it’s dirty or no lubrication it jams up. On the other hand it could be the movement is the same, dirty and lacking lubrication. Only one way and that is to dismantle the clock and escapement  clean everything reassemble. Use Windles clock oil on the movement and a good watch oil on the platform escapement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You cannot over wind a clock it is a myth. You can only wind a clock up to its full, if it doesn't go then there is something wrong with it. Sorry watchweasol I disagree with the watch oil for the escapement pocket watch is best that is what I would use on such as this type of escapement. You will need to check the pivots of all the wheels and the holes for wear. You will also need a clock mainspring winder to remove the spring from the barrel and check the ends for sighs of wear, sometimes the end of the spring that hooks on the barrel can split. Pivots need to be smooth and burnished.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the platform escape I used 9010 for the remainder of the, ie clock pivots I used Windles.  For mainsprings now I use a  spray lubricant grease with PTFE  and so far it is working well.  I noticed  that " Tommy Robson" was  using it he was also using HP1300 for the large pivots.  I do this as well and I have had no issues so far!!!!


Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  I can see that the cannon pinion is moving as it should once I installed the pallet fork. I created a small video but was not able to upload it. It is a mov file type. I need now to source a GR4014X mainspring, a stop ever #9433 and both calendar disc as the days/dates are peeling out... This is the mido watch which holds the ETA Movement.... I just want to thanks all of you guys for your help, specially @eccentric59 who nailed it! So, I would consider this case as closed unless of course any question from any of you... Best regards Fernando     I could not download the file... I will tray to located. Many thanks. 
    • Thanks a lot everyone!  I'll update you as soon as a final decision has been made by my friend (and depending on her decision, what I may find inside). 
    • Thanks Marc, clearly I have a lot to learn about metallurgy. I’d expect the cutting of tool or spring steel to be a lot harder to cut into a precise shape- I expect I’d have to anneal it first? 
    • Unfortunately if you have used mild steel you will have little hope of hardening and tempering it, it simply doesn't contain enough carbon. You need to use a steel with a higher carbon content like tool steel or spring steel. One good source for this is engineers feeler gauges which can be picked up relatively inexpensively and provide a range of thicknesses of material. this will then harden and temper in pretty much the way you have described.
    • Thanks for this excellent tutorial and very fine illustrations @Jon! Really first class! 👍 I noticed that your image was a bit too small to read with ease, so here's a larger copy of it. I summarized @nickelsilver's method for adjusting beat errors to the following, but you can find all the info in the thread I linked to: “For everyday work, from the smallest ladies’ movements to marine chronometer, I set the balance with the cock on a bench block so the roller table is in a hole, balance on the block. Lift up the cock and move it over- not flipping it, just moving laterally, until I can see the slot in the hairspring collet, get in there and adjust (for tiny watches this is usually with an oiler, larger, a small screwdriver). Go back in the watch and check on the machine. I hold a balance arm of the rim with tweezers while moving the collet.”    
  • Create New...