Hello everyone

[Terrymhn]

My name is Terry and am just starting out learning this incredible hobby. I have a sort of a dilemma. I purchased an L&R watch cleaning machine that was a total basket case and needs rewired. I am looking for a wiring diagram. The machine is an L&R Special which I can find nothing on the internet even mentioning the L&R special. Has anyone ever heard of this machine. Thanks in advance for any help you wise folks can give me. 

[RichardHarris123]

Hello and welcome. 

[Nucejoe]

Welcome to the forum.

[Geotex]

Terry,

Yes, I’ve heard of it - I am actually refurbishing one myself, to go along with my similarly-ancient L&R Junior.

That’s one of the really old L&R machines, which came with the non-logo H-5371 jars with metal screw caps.  Some of the wiring is consistent from one cleaning machine to another, but the actual schematic really depends on the model of the motor involved. The open-frame style machines from that era seem to have used fairly generic motors made by Hamilton Beach for their shake mixers, and they are non-reversible so there is no “Reverse” or ”Auto Cycle” switching involved. (Unless you open them up to rewire, which is a mod I can explain more about if you are interested). Can you provide a picture of the motor and a description of what model and manufacturer information is listed on the nameplate?

Glen

[oldhippy]

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

[watchweasol]

Hello and welcome to the forum

[Terrymhn]

21 hours ago, Geotex said:

Terry,

Yes, I’ve heard of it - I am actually refurbishing one myself, to go along with my similarly-ancient L&R Junior.

That’s one of the really old L&R machines, which came with the non-logo H-5371 jars with metal screw caps.  Some of the wiring is consistent from one cleaning machine to another, but the actual schematic really depends on the model of the motor involved. The open-frame style machines from that era seem to have used fairly generic motors made by Hamilton Beach for their shake mixers, and they are non-reversible so there is no “Reverse” or ”Auto Cycle” switching involved. (Unless you open them up to rewire, which is a mod I can explain more about if you are interested). Can you provide a picture of the motor and a description of what model and manufacturer information is listed on the nameplate?

Glen

 

21 hours ago, Geotex said:

Terry,

Yes, I’ve heard of it - I am actually refurbishing one myself, to go along with my similarly-ancient L&R Junior.

That’s one of the really old L&R machines, which came with the non-logo H-5371 jars with metal screw caps.  Some of the wiring is consistent from one cleaning machine to another, but the actual schematic really depends on the model of the motor involved. The open-frame style machines from that era seem to have used fairly generic motors made by Hamilton Beach for their shake mixers, and they are non-reversible so there is no “Reverse” or ”Auto Cycle” switching involved. (Unless you open them up to rewire, which is a mod I can explain more about if you are interested). Can you provide a picture of the motor and a description of what model and manufacturer information is listed on the nameplate?

Glen

Hi Glen, thanks for taking the time to help me figure this out. Unfortunately, the nameplate is missing. I took a couple of photos of what I received with the exception of the base. It does have a micro switch that may be what changes the direction, but I am a total novice with wiring   I’m including a couple of pics of the disassembled unit. The only wiring diagram I found has 3 wires coming from the motor, mine only has 2. Thanks again for your help. 

[watchweasol]

Hi. This is a topic that has been discussed at length by various members, maybe worth searching the site for the information.   Have you pictures of the rest of the machine so the members can see where you are at.   Thanks.

[LittleWatchShop]

Here is one thread on the topic

 

And here

[Geotex]

Yes, that is a Hamilton Beach mixer motor. The good news is that there is online hobbyist information about cleaning/lubricating/servicing those motors because the milkshake mixers are collectible.  They were not wired to be reversible, which is why there are only two wires coming out. You can split the brush wires as part of a rewiring project to add reversibility, but that isn't necessary if you want to keep it simple and "stock" - potential loss of cleaning efficiency can be countered with longer wash cycles.  

I can't credit the source of the attached schematic page because I copied it awhile ago, but this has two versions of the milkshake motor wiring. A few comments:

- the top schematic shows a momentary pushbutton switch to activate the heater, either because there were concerns about walking away from a live heater element sitting next to a jar of volatile chemicals, or just that it could be left on unintentionally after use because there was no master on/off switch. That design was dropped in later models, but they also included motor/jar sealing components to reduce the level of local fumes (as are present in your setup). I think most rebuilds just use a standard toggle. I like to add an upstream master "on/off" switch with an added pilot light to cut the power to both the heater circuit and the speed control so it all is shut off when not in use. It is possible for the speed control to be sitting not quite in the off position such that the motor isn't turning but there is still current going through the coils. 

- both show a pilot light that signifies the heater element is turned on, one in series with the pilot light and one in parallel. I think the series wiring is from a unit that used an incandescent panel bulb, which can allow a bulb to also serve a fuse (or in some cases an inrush current limiter), but the parallel wiring is more standard in rebuilds using whatever 110V pilot lamp you like.

- there is an added resistor in series with the speed control rheostat on the bottom schematic. That can be used to further dampen the voltage if the speed control isn't letting you control the motor in the sweet spot for watch part cleaning, but it isn't needed in most cases, especially with rheostats that have more resistance.