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Hi All, just gone to wind in the mainspring on this Rolex cal 2236 to find that it does not have a hole but instead is flared on the end to sit in the flared part of the arbor. Does anyone know if there is a winder on the market for this as although I have not tried yet I am assuming that my standard winder will not work in this case. thanks. Any help or advice appreciated. -
By ManSkirtBrew · Posted
A friend brought me this beautiful Omega to service. It's the first time I've seen this movement, so I'm looking through the technical guide for...guidance. Sorry for the photos instead of text--I wasn't able to get a satisfactory cut-n-paste. The PDF is attached. First question: are they suggesting *all* of these parts be treated with epilame, or just saying they are treated from the factory with a special coating? Most everything else I can work out: But my second question is this guy, from the automatic winding block. I'm assuming it's a one-way clutch, and I did not want to risk taking it apart with no knowledge of it. So do I take it apart? How is it lubricated? I have Lubeta V105, would that be appropriate here? Omega 1001.pdf -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Its nice to be shown appreciation for any advice thats been given. Thanks Murks. -
By Terrinecold · Posted
Thank you for the advice. Actually I have already ordered a replacement one as soon as I broke the setting lever screw. It is supposed to arrive today or tomorrow, I got it from AliExpress for $27.51. In the meantime this Sunday I got from amazon the cheapest mechanical watch I could find (a pocket watch with a 2650G movement). That movement is now sitting disassembled and waiting for reassembly. I have to say I found that movement pretty ugly compared to the ST36. The fact that it is skeletonized and center second made it interesting but all the bridges feel very bad quality. One thing which happened with this one (due to the skeleton nature) is that I had trouble removing the hands with my presto tool (I have levers on order but not arrived yet). I bent a bit the little retainer (the part at the bottom of the picture). Then later on I couldn't find the cannon pinion. I finally found it it was in the hour wheel. I must have pulled it out a bit initially and then oil kept it in there. The other thing which happened is that when I tried to open the case back which the back crystal (plastic, glued) came out. Anyway tonight is reassembly time for this one. I also have an NH35 and a Mingzu 2813 on order. One question: I was thinking about getting some old soviet movements which I see on ebay for pretty cheap. All that to keep practicing and hopefully learn not to break anything before I start trying to service a real watch. -
By eccentric59 · Posted
The ST36 isn't an expensive movement, so it might be easier to just get a replacement for parts. Here's a listing in the U.S. for $33 + $3 shipping. Once you get current movement running you can tackle the tangles hairspring without the pressure of making it worse. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353824212893?itmmeta=01HYDN4TGZSXFCW4TXZ2THH0C1&hash=item526191079d:g:sT4AAOSwHidhcQO6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Jw5K76smZgFGzM5ubLY769v%2B6EbBphCYo99M48gxLxxMjir9tRyn32O8Q5AgmKh1aKUP%2FfaCOIz8a7YMGkflhGWus7BDQIzrs45yo8NCZ66Jmti1Qli2%2BjaAm%2F8Ogg81F17LdC5Ulu54cnXSOCtaMkQcp03pcluBqTAuZPxbYwkrOC38sb%2FtlDewlZBOhjtA7pZTTMAql7hFKbrkc5RyF%2BtGL2%2Br9BS7mzgd%2BxdDF08HcVn6rvOawDjEbMPs9mYSegv6DVnSoiYYpMGzPJE7Qyd782Brjl05GQTL9MzpFuWrQvUTNxyY5%2BNQi18XTmf4A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8yok7XzYw
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