Jump to content

Oh, hello there!

nrm

By nrm
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

nrm Member

nrm

Posted
Posted

Hello fine people of the Internet! I'm new to this fascinating passtime of watch touching, and can hardly wait to learn more. I'm nrm, you may also see me in youtube comment sections as needless mustard. I'm just this guy, y'know? 

I'm what's called in some circles a geriatric millennial, or an aging punk. And like most middle-aged folks with not enough responsibilities, I have too many hobbies!

I'm obviously new to and enthusiastic about watch repair, though I'm not a "Watch Guy" -- I've no (current) interest in Acquiring "Desirable" watches like the Rolex and the Tag Heuers and all that fancy stuff that costs several months of rent an you have to be on a waiting list for 6 years for.

I'm also a Modular Synthesis nerd. I mostly enjoy building and repairing these instruments, but I can also be found playing them from time to time.

Speaking of nerds, I'm also all about the TTRPG scene, Dungeons & Dragons amongst other games -- I've been playing with a couple different groups for nigh on ten years at this point. I'm a passable player, and a decent game master. 

I thought I was going to get into mixology and bartending, but it turned out that I just wanted a good daiquiri.

Some other things that people may be interested to know, I'm currently in the Middle of Canada -- I think there's one legit watch repair school left in my country, and it's about 2400KM away; so the Internet is my friend (probably going to dive in to Mr. Lovick's online courses when there's a few spare dollars and I'm ready to stop saying that it's a "new" hobby).

My pronouns are currently He, Him, & His. I have a cat named Luce (as in hell broke loose). Finally, my day job is a professional computer toucher.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rossjackson01 Super WRT Addict

rossjackson01

Posted
Posted (edited)

Welcome.

I can recommend Marks course. Gave me the basics of the engrossing hobby. Alex Hamilton 'watch repair tutorials'  also has a distance course. Chronoglide has a self teach course without guidance.

Mark's course was really informative and gave progression tutorials that made it easy to understand and move to the next level. I purchased levels 1, 2 and 3. I have completed levels 1 and 2. Levels 1 and 2 give basic foundation and advocate practice, practice and more practice. You have no idea how correct he is.  I am still using level 3 as my go to when I come across a Youtube video that causes me problems.

I have not purchased Alex's course as it only started a month ago.  His YouTube videos start as basics and them move to Marks level 3 for information. They are very good. His distance course appears also exceptional. 

The members here are the additional additive to me keeping a level head and not progressing beyond my skill level. Good advisers with excellent knowledge.

Hope this information helps.

Ross

 

Edited by rossjackson01
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Following on from my question about identifying screws in the AS2063 movement that basically fell out of the case in bits, I’m pleased to report that I’ve got it all back together, and the movement is running pretty well.    But… There’s something wrong with the keyless works and hand setting. It’s fine in winding and quickset date position - these work - but in hand setting position winding the crown turns the whole gear train.  I don’t really understand how it’s meant to work. It doesn’t have a traditional friction fit cannon pinion.  The second wheel is unusual with a pair of smaller pinions on it, which seem to interact with the barrel and the motion works.    Could this be the problem? I must admit I just cleaned it and popped it in place when reassembling the gear train. I’ve lubricated the pivots but didn’t do anything to the extra bits on the second wheel.    Does this make sense and is anyone able to figure out what I’m doing wrong? Thanks in advance, as always.    ETA - the parts list calls it the Great Wheel, not second wheel. 
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      You're thinking metal to jewel in general I guess. Maybe it would be a good idea to peg the pallet staff jewel hole on the main plate after the epilame treatment. I think that could work as it is my impression that the epilame doesn't sit very hard, but I could be wrong about that so feel free to educate me. I didn't remember that 9501 was thixotropic (thanks for the link). That would mean it's even runnier during impact (lower viscosity) so perhaps it's time I get some fresh grease as mine seems a bit too runny. What I have seen is a whitish surface after washing but it goes away if I scrub the surface with a brush in a degreaser (Horosolv). I don't think it embeds itself in the metal but sticks very hard to the metal. I don't worry too much about the cleaning solution. I just want perfectly clean parts and my solution can be replaced for little money (ELMA RED 1:9). Anyway, I quite often need "to strip back and rebuild" and scrubbing parts by hand isn't exactly the most stimulating part of a service. Just got confirmation that Moebius 9501 has a lower viscosity (68 cSt at 20° C) than 9504 (305 cSt at 20°). The viscosity of Molykote DX is 285-315 cSt at -25° to +125° C. I was surprised to see that the viscosity of Moebius 9010 (thin oil!) is higher (150 cSt at 20°) than my 9501 grease!
    • rehajm
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By rehajm · Posted

      I’ve had a couple movements where it is clear the previous watchmaker was diligent with lubrication but the old epilam had turned to a fine white powder covering the pallet fork and keyless parts, which can’t be good for parts. I’m spare with epi since I don’t know how long it takes to degrade to that state…
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro. I thought the idea was for the epilame to create a barrier, a wall between the lubrication and anything else, so the lube cant spread.
    • mikepilk
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By mikepilk · Posted

      As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
×
×
  • Create New...