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Slava 2428 Problems.


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Hi Everyone,

I've been busy tinkering with a Slava 2428 movement in a Sekonda day date watch and I have encountered a couple of problems.

Firstly it seems impossible to remove ( I assume the original) sweep second hand on this model without breaking the centre wheel pinion. I anticipated the problem and took extreme care with the normal levers, but still I broke the pinion.

Secondly when replacing the minute hand it again seems impossible to get it on tightly, the slightest movement causes it to come loose.

Has any body else experienced these difficulties?

Also the twin mainsprings have a Tee or a cross at the end (DB). I'm having great difficulty winding these back into the barrel because the 'tag' on the cross piece at the end of the spring has to correspond to a slot in the barrel. I think there must be a special technique for doing this, which I will have yet to learn. Please could someone help. 

Thank you,

Regards Richard.

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About the mainspring, try starting the wind by putting that 'cross' earlier then the hole in the barrel. As you wind the ms if the cross doesn't get to the hole by itself, try turning the entire ms a couple of mm. All of these if you put the ms back by hand and you don't have a ms winder. In that case it's much simpler, you just align that cross with the hole in the barrel.

About the seconds hand, it might have been some sort of rust problem.

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After watching that video, I liked that movement so much I found one on ebay and ordered it to tinker with. Got it for a song but it's in Bulgaria so it won't be here for a good while. Thanks for the heads up! :)

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Hi All,

Thanks to everyone for their contribution. I'm most grateful to rogart63 for the video which he posted. Great pictures and some really useful information. The tiny jewel in the central second post really impressed me. This may be normal but as a beginner I was amazed to find the tiny 'speck', not only that but with a hole through the middle.

I enjoyed working on this watch and have managed to re-wind the mainspring using a m/s winder.

Thanks again everyone,

Regards Richard.

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    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
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