Jump to content

Glue for case back (not crystals)


Recommended Posts

I'm working on a cheap quartz watch. i changed the press fit crystal and the battery. The case back was glued on and now i'm having trouble finding what is the proper type of glue to use on a case back.

I've read a lot about gluing crystals, but can't find anything about gluing case backs.

My experience with epoxy is that, in general, it is very difficult to undo (for the next time you want to remove the case back.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@kd8tzc and @Waggy I agree - to clarify - Gluing a case back just didn't ring true. I am new to watchmaking so this may be completely due to my inexperience. The case gasket was hardened and in pieces and only partially there, which i didn't notice when i removed the case back. I should have inspected it then but i didn't. However, once i noticed the state of the case back gasket, i replaced it with at new one which i greased with silicone. When i used my case press to reinstall the case, i could not get it to snap in. I inspected both the case and the case back and could not determine any lip that would allow the case back to snap on. Just as a further experiment, i tried to snap on the case back without the gasket with no luck. On further inspection i noticed, what appears to be glue residue inside the case. So i assumed that the only way the case was attached was by glue. I'm probably still missing something?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, signcarver said:

@kd8tzc and @Waggy I agree - to clarify - Gluing a case back just didn't ring true. I am new to watchmaking so this may be completely due to my inexperience. The case gasket was hardened and in pieces and only partially there, which i didn't notice when i removed the case back. I should have inspected it then but i didn't. However, once i noticed the state of the case back gasket, i replaced it with at new one which i greased with silicone. When i used my case press to reinstall the case, i could not get it to snap in. I inspected both the case and the case back and could not determine any lip that would allow the case back to snap on. Just as a further experiment, i tried to snap on the case back without the gasket with no luck. On further inspection i noticed, what appears to be glue residue inside the case. So i assumed that the only way the case was attached was by glue. I'm probably still missing something?

As Tom is suggesting press on casebacks tend to have a slightly convex shape to them. When pressed in the center this then flexes and increases the caseback's  diameter slightly to help enable it to snap over the retaining lip of the case. As the pressure is released the caseback recovers it's convex shape and grips the lip to hold in place. Tom could be right, it might be bent inwards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are some casebacks with incredibly thin gaskets, like 0.15mm thin. The thinnest gaskets I can get from Cousins is 0.3mm. Even with a lot of persuasion, I have never managed to squeeze a 0.3mm gasket into such casebacks. 

In such instances, I have resorted to using plumber's tape and UHU glue.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As other have said, can you post a picture.

I wonder if the glue that was used is part of the issue.  Possibly it is preventing the caseback from snapping into place due to old glue somewhere.  Hard to tell without seeing though.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - i think i figured it out. The original case back gasket was "hardened" and broken into pieces, with some pieces missing. I assumed it was a standard rubber gasket that had hardened. I now believe that it was a plastic hard gasket all along. That would have created a lip that allowed the case back to snap on. Replacing the original gasket with a soft rubber one wouldn't, and didn't, solve the problem. Doh!

So now i'm in search for a hard (plastic) gasket.

Thank you all for your insights and suggestions! 👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The wheels turned fine. I set the escape wheel in the epoxy when it had just ‘skinned’ and wasn’t set, made sure it spun with the 4th wheel, and let it set.    After cleaning I assembled the barrel and wheel train - all fine. Moving the barrel the escape wheel spun freely. I put a bit of 9010 in my epoxy setting.    It went wrong when I put the pallet fork in. It wasn’t seated right (no jewels) and the escape wheel  knocked a pallet jewel out. I have no idea how to reset a pallet jewel - epoxy again? I’m not spending any more time on this one - it’s missing hands and the front half of the case anyway, and I have more watches ready to put on the bench. 
    • No John, we don't want Mark to change anything, we are just scared of losing a brilliant forum and losing contact with each other.  As pointed out, this forum is full of knowledge and I for one,  consider the regulars friends. I would hate to lose contact with you and the others.   PS, this forum is really important to me. 
    • one little minor problem with your chemistry experiment here which is what exactly is epilam? In other words is it an exact substance with the chemical you specify or is it a term? For instance originally it was steric acid either dissolved in some sort of solvent or it was applied by vaporizing it. Then now it's all kinds of different things the watch companies all have different ideas there's a whole bunch of patents. So is not always an exact substance.   let me snip out a image from the patent that I attached up above. Notice I highlighted something it seems to disagree with your evaluation.  
    • I guess You had to try, as it would be hard to sleep without that try, but, I know the result before the experiment... As I told before, the friction will be so big that the wheel will not turn. The pivots have to be thin and polished - the bigger the number of the wheel (2th, 3gh, 4th...), the thinner the pivot. What You are trying to do is possible, but forming the new thin pivot must be done on lathe. Thus the wheel will get shorter, but can have new pivot without the drilling for normal standard repivoting. Then piece of brass can be soldered under the pivot hole in the bridge and new hole drilled in it to form the new bearing.  Well, this way is not the recommended one, not quite correct, but it is possible to do for the excersize... When I say lathe, lathe may be verry simple, someting like turns, but made of what one has in reach of his hands. If You want to try, I will try to guide
    • yes by all means let's gather up our weapons tar feathers find the nearest tree in case Mark is not agreeable to our terms on our demands and storm his Castle. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do here? In other words you want Mark to somehow guarantee that the group will live on forever no matter what? You want Mark to somehow change his business model of what is trying to do or should we just take the group away from him? oh and is quite possible that Mark never realized that his discussion group would take on a life of its own. That the members of the group would like to continue on forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...