Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Good afternoon all,

I have a Seamaster 120 that I am rebuilding and have been using the ETA 2892A2 technical document for data, however, I have come across the actual Omega technical document and when I checked the lift angles, there appears to be a difference. Omega have the lift angle as 53º, ETA as 51º.

Many places on the web also state the lift angle as 51º, so I wondered if anyone here could state definitively what the figure should be, as 2º lift angle delta would potentially have a significant impact on the amplitude reading.

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do not know the answer, but my analysis indicates that the derivative of Amplitude (A) with respect to lift angle (LA) is approximately A/LA. so with a nominal amplitude of 260 degrees at a nominal lift angle of 52 degrees, the derivative is 5.  Therefore, for every degree variance of LA, you would expect an amplitude change of 5 degrees. 

So your range of possible lift angles yield a range of amplitudes of only 10 degrees (260 +/- 5). I would not call that significant.

I measure amplitude using my smart phone in super slow motion video.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, ClusterFoxtrot said:

Omega have the lift angle as 53º, ETA as 51º.

always fun when a variety of sources even from the same manufacturer don't seem to agree? The Omega document I have on timing specifications for the 1120a is 51°. Then for the eta I also see it's 51°. just as I was curious I went too much newer version of Omega it's still 51°.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 7/17/2023 at 9:52 AM, ClusterFoxtrot said:

if anyone here could state definitively what the figure should be, as 2º lift angle delta would potentially have a significant impact on the amplitude reading.

I really doubt that 2° make that much of a difference but if it does You should watch this video he explains how to figure out the lift angle for yourself and then you'll know exactly what it is for your watch.

 

On 8/31/2023 at 12:10 PM, ClusterFoxtrot said:

It's entirely possible that there has been a revision to the document, which in fairness, is quite old and there was a typo.

So which document are we talking about that's quite old? I made a reference to the documentation I was looking at I didn't say which one I was looking at. Then for an air of this type how fast with the noticed a problem? Then you'll notice in some of the images I'm giving you things are highlighted if we looked at the back of a document it would be a reference to those of the updates from the previous version so yes the really do update the documentation.

what you need is something called WORKING INSTRUCTION N° 28   25.11.2020. Yes 2020 is really old but if they haven't figured out there problem by now they probably never will.

Now to explain why you're only getting snippets out of the documentation the only way you can get this is you have to have Swatch group access yourself or find something that does have Swatch group access it's not available as far as I know anywhere that you can download. Then Swatch group is paranoid with the documentation let's give an example from when they used to give some documentation out that cousins have

image.png.1f5dccbfdf0c4b98028cb744a93c46bf.png

So seeing as how every single document downloaded office watch group as a watermark in the corner complete with the data is downloaded etc. how would they feel if somebody just distributed the world? You know what a pain in the ass it is to get anybody that even has a Swatch group access so know you're never going to see the whole document best your analyses of somebody kindly snips out images Trying to avoid the watermark

So for an 1120 in the image below its programmed number eight. It's chronometer grade watch there is the frequency and the 200 is the amplitude at 24 hours. The plus -10 is when the calendar should change in other words you calendars should change within 10 minutes of midnight. The 44 is therunning time and I could care less about the number two as I'd have to go and look up what it actually means.

image.png.8cd19874c2ad39ac070e9002ca743fc6.png

Now let's go find the programs I don't really like the newer documents to things are fragmented versus the old stuff which will see below

 

image.png.9cf5f005e8c85562213b0ac8f0af3bfe.png

 Now this is weird 2016 I'm not seeing your watch? November 2017 it shows up and looks like it's 51°.

image.png.331bd37f066f33a5cda90e47b0f3a93f.png

Now if you're not seeing the amplitude you perceive you're seeing with the correct 51° they really should look at how your measuring or amplitude? If you're using anything that resembles phone apps are apps that do not use a standard watch type pickup that lead the problems sometimes with watches are in heavy cases the case will have a dampening effect that can have issues

but no matter what it looks like 51°

 

image.png

Edited by JohnR725
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/18/2023 at 3:33 AM, JohnR725 said:

specifications for the 1120a is 51°.

I had almost forgot about this when I went to work on Thursday the laptop I normally use at 1120 tech sheet up and noticed something 53°. How sad that conflicts with the newer documentation.

In real life 51 or 53° is going to really matter that much at all. Especially since nobody cares what the maximum amplitude is all Omega cares about is the amplitude at 24 hours

 

image.thumb.png.555d3cd9afa4a446d02d9acf0cd1a701.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alright, the job is done. I first filed down the stubs flat. I then used a Proxxon hand drill first with a 0.5mm bit to score a point to work from, then a 1mm drill bit to properly drill out some lug holes. I just went slowly, checking the depth as I went. I drilled the inside of the lugs, leaving the outsides unblemished. I was worried that drilling at an angle might be a problem, but it turned out fine. Lug holes don't need to be very accurate, so it was actually easy to create holes to easily accommodate a spring bar. The result is a 'good enough' outcome that worked for me. Thanks for your help everyone, loving the hobby so far. I learn so much with each project.
    • Welcome to the forum. Yep not a cheap hobby by any means , Ali Express, the Chinese Amazon has some decent tools but should ask the members their thoughts before purchase.  A little reading to help you along. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy.
    • Just picked this up earlier today. This find just about epitomizes vintage watch collecting for me and what really keeps me going. Hit 2 antique malls today and saw a couple of pieces at the first one but just nothing that I needed. At the second one saw a Accutron 218 but it was 20 minutes behind the actual time. These "malls" have numerous booths of a variety of sellers who likely go in once or twice a week. Considering that that watch should be within a couple of seconds a month, I figured it hadn't been phased so passed on that for now knowing it would need work to run correctly and the price tag. Then I found this Excelle in a display case. I never heard of the brand, but in was an auto and had a little heft. It turned out to be 40mm lug to lug, 35.3mm case width, and 12.3 mm thick. On the spiedel once size fits most flex band. At $10.80US with tax I immediately pulled the trigger with nothing to lose. Before pictures: I spent a nice 30 minutes taking it out of the case and running that through the ultra sonic replacing the crystal and gasket and recasing, but spent five minutes first getting it running close on the timegrapher. Had a new crystal already in stock. I probably could have sanbed and polished the old one, but for $3 there is nothing like a new acrylic that makes a watch pop, in my opinion. The caseback gasket was hardened and just glad it wasn't tar. Changed that as well. Here is the after Pic on a temp black strap while I decide on a leather or steel bracelet. An added bonus was doing some research and finding out the Elgin connection and the movement is a PUW 1563T which is German I am pretty sure and probably why it doesn't say Swiss made on the dial. This movement is supposed to have a hack feature and quickset date by pushing the crown. But neither of those complications seem to be working. Not sure if the stem is cut too short because there is no gap for the crown to move. Either way at some point will need to be serviced and check the keyless works to find out what is going on with the quickset and hack of the sweep second hand.
    • On the link that I posted, one of the watches has no crown and another has a crown that is not square to the case. Does a broken crown signify that the movement may be quite corroded, hence the stem has broken, and does the bent crown simply signify that the stem is bent? Unfortunately as the seller has a bid on the items, he is now reticent to prise the casebacks off in case he damages something. The seller did reply with this email though. Hi again Michael - brief descriptions; Oris x 2, dials and hands ok and they set ok and one I just wound and it has been running for a few of minutes as I write this response. Rocar, dial ok no crown. No name dial no good and can't pull crown out to set. Roma dial and hands ok, I think it is pin pallet movement. Unicorn, good dial and hands and plexiglass ok for age. All cases and plexiglasses show wear except as mentioned. I have no idea what movements are fitted or condition so please if you do consider bidding, please do so accordingly as I don't like to disappoint my customers - regards and thanks again for your interest - Jim
×
×
  • Create New...