Jump to content

Mainspring winder - what am I doing wrong?


Recommended Posts

I've been happily using my mainspring winders for the last year or so. I went through a bit of a learning curve at the start but haven't had any issues since the beginning. However, I am having a problem getting this mainspring in the winder. The short video shows three (failed) attempts at getting the mainspring in the winder. I can't see what the issue is or what I would change as it's the same as I always do. Any thoughts on what the problem is (other than too much grease)?

[BTW, this is from a Longines 285 manual wind. Doesn't this look like an automatic bridle?]

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

That's so weird. Maybe the bridle is sharp and catching on the winder wall or the wall has a rough spot and is snagging the bridle. 

It is the first time I've used the size 7 winder. I just checked the winder wall under the scope and it looks smooth with nothing to catch or snag the bridle. BTW, does that bridle look long/odd for a manual wind watch?

bridle-2.jpg.ee1a179f45eaea24c026d10858f4d7f7.jpg

 



My last attempt ended up breaking off the bridle so I decided to order a new mainspring. There doesn't seem to be a lot of agreement on the interwebs about the correct mainspring for the Longines 280 family.  It comes in both a "normal" and T-end version and mine is the normal variant. Most seem to reference a 12mm barrel but mine is 11mm. My measurements led me to the 1.10 x .13 x 360 x 11 Non-Automatic (GR2672). We'll see.

Are there any material shops in the US that you can order a mainspring by the GR number? I ended up ordering from Cousins as I couldn't find any.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have an ortho spot welder, you can spot weld the broken off bridle to the mainspring.

It looks like someone modified an automatic mainspring by cutting off the rounded end.

BTW, you don't need to wind the entire spring into the winder. You can actually leave the tail hanging out 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

Are there any material shops in the US that you can order a mainspring by the GR number? I ended up ordering from Cousins as I couldn't find any.

There are but not directly. If you notice on some of the websites are actually make reference to the GR mainspring but usually they have a reference to another number because they sell under a different numbering scheme I've noticed occasionally some of my pocket watch spring as he opened up the paper envelope marked with a variety of other companies sometimes the GR numbers are on the packages inside. But as far as a place that lists them what cousins in the US I haven't seen it doesn't mean it doesn't exist just haven't seen it

1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

BTW, you don't need to wind the entire spring into the winder. You can actually leave the tail hanging out 

This is something I do a pocket watch springs all the time as their unique or special ends have to be hooked before I can push the spring out. So something like this that looked may be problematic at least after the fact you didn't have the wind it all inside you could a left it out and then put that in the first followed by the winder and then the whole things ejected out.

Oh and where is the handle? Not the handle for winding the spring but usually the entire winder goes into a handle which allows you to hold it easier?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

If you have an ortho spot welder, you can spot weld the broken off bridle to the mainspring.

It looks like someone modified an automatic mainspring by cutting off the rounded end.

BTW, you don't need to wind the entire spring into the winder. You can actually leave the tail hanging out 

I do have the ability to spot weld but in addition to breaking off the bridle the spring was also distorted. It's a fairly nice watch so I figured I'd just put in a new mainspring.

After that third failed attempt I considered just putting it in the barrel with the end handing out, but I couldn't' wrap my head around whether or not the part that was hanging out was in the correct orientation. It seemed like it should have been pointing away from me not towards me so I wasn't confident that it was orientated correctly.

 

6 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Oh and where is the handle? Not the handle for winding the spring but usually the entire winder goes into a handle which allows you to hold it easier?

I find it easier to hold without the handle so I don't usually have it attached when winding in the spring.

 

2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

If you have ordered a new spring why don't you just press it into the barrel?

I will once it arrives. Assuming, unlike the last spring I ordered, it doesn't need to be cleaned first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

I watched the video again and I think I know what happened. 

The bridle is so long that it made a complete round in the winder barrel, then the end came out through the opening from the opposite side. 

Oh, wow, I think you are right. Dang, I really could have just put it in the barrel at that point and saved myself the headache of ordering a new spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

Assuming, unlike the last spring I ordered, it doesn't need to be cleaned first.

Why did the last spring need to be cleaned?

2 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

I find it easier to hold without the handle so I don't usually have it attached when winding in the spring.

Interesting is probably the way each of us is holding I wouldn't think of using the winder without the handle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

I ordered a mainspring for an FHF 324 from Jules Borel and it came in an unsealed container that was much larger than the barrel.

It still may not need to be cleaned. That's an older style packaging. There is currently a ongoing crisis of well everything in horology to be honest. Several years ago There is a crisis of mainsprings where the mainspring companies or in this case probably just one company has decided they would no longer make replacement mainsprings for stuff they just don't have to. So basically the companies are only going to make things for active production if you look at they GR mainspring book go to the back section of mainsprings by number or basically by size and figure out approximately how many mainsprings to see per page and how many pages and how many mainsprings they would have to stock to stock every single vintage mainspring the catalog once had it looking at a heck of a lot of mainsprings and then some of these mainsprings how often do they ever get ordered?

So simplistically the package you have is because they ran out of modern mainsprings and is now using whatever they have in stock at some point in time instead of having that you will have nothing

Oh and since are missing the outer package possibly a lot of times they will say there prelubricated or they never need lubrication or hysterically funny they will never set whenever break like that never happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...