Jump to content

My Forever Replacement Brass Tweezers ​​​​​​​


Recommended Posts

I have switched to titanium tweezers for general work and fond the Cousins UK own brand very good (link Here) as they require far less re-dressing and hold their shape as well as steel so the best of both worlds, in my opinion. However, I still have a cheapo set of brass tweesers for any work I do where scratching could be an issue and I am looking to replace these as I am sure the brass in my set is made from recycled rodico based on how quickly they deform. My initial instinct was to replace them with a better quality brass set, then I saw a video discussing the virtues of bronze then another on carbon fiber, so I went looking to see what was out there. As I intend this purchase to my my 'forever tweezers' I am happy to invest a little more on them so I want to get the choice right, but I have too many materials to pick from:

  1. Good quality brass Link
  2. Bronze Link
  3. Carbon fiber (all CF Link or CF tipped Link
  4. Boxwood tipped Link
  5. Ceramic tipped Link
  6. Delrin tipped Link
  7. Vulcanized Fibre tipped Link
  8. Other????

My initial thoughts and assumptions:

  • I assume that ceramic would be scratchy, so not a contender, can anyone confirm?
  • I assume all of the tipped versions cannot be re-dressed, so the tip will need to be replaced once it wears out or becomes damaged? 
  • Wood/boxwood would not be ideal for everyday prolonged use and better for specific jobs like handling hands and dials?

Can you please provide your experience of the above types and do my assumptions align with your actual experience, and any recommendations for preferred brands for each material that you have good experience with? Also, let me know if I have overlooked any good options.

Note: All the links above are just examples from Cousins, I'm not tied to them, it was convenient to take all the links from one source for consistency.

Edited by Waggy
Clarification
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have #1 and find them ideal for handling almost all but the very tiniest parts. The tips are fine but strong enough. With careful handling they need very little attention. Ideally, you need the opinion of someone who has compared them with the others though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Waggy said:

have switched to titanium tweezers for general work and fond the Cousins UK own brand very good (link Here) as they require far less re-dressing and hold their shape as well as steel so the best of both worlds, in my opinion. However, I still have a cheapo set of brass tweesers for any work I do where scratching could be an issue and I am looking to replace these as I am

Same here a set of titanium 5s from cousins i bought a couple of months ago for around 7 quid. I was curious about the scratching so tested them against brass and steel. I find them comparable to brass for non-scratching but definitely not as stiff as steel. I think a far better option than brass.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I tend to use Bergeon brass tweezers No.2 and No.3 for everyday work, as they don't tend to scratch. For serious stuff like replacing a cannon pinion, holding back springs, etc, I use Dumont No.2 carbon steel tweezers, as they are hard as nails and won't give like finer or stainless steel tweezers. (I find vintage carbon steel tweezers so much better than the new ones. I think the composition of the tweezers may have changed over time, making them not as hard and durable... (Just my experience of older carbon steel compared to the new ones). To be honest, I stay well away from stainless steel tweezers because they are as soft as chewing gum, so it's best to go with carbon steel in whatever size/number you need. I bought some titanium Cousins cheapo tweezers No. 6, but they need some serious honing to work with hairsprings, they are a good inexpensive option if you don't use Dumont No.5's for this kind of work. Angled hairspring tweezers, such as No.7's or No.6's are good if working under a microscope, as you can see the hairspring properly under the scope, but if you are doing hairspring manipulation without a microscope I find it nigh on impossible, especially if it takes an hour or more to do the work. There is no way I'm using an X15 or X20 at an 11 mm working distance with a loupe for that amount of time, so a microscope is the only way to go for ease and comfort. Anyone who does use a loupe for hairspring work is doing themselves a massive disservice. I'm speaking from experience of using a loupe in the early days compared to using an x40 microscope now. I only speak from experience. I first bought No.1 and No.3 stainless steel tweezers in the early days and may pick them up every now and then, but they are not my go-to, as they are too soft and too fine for me.

As I've said, this is my experience. I'm not telling anyone what they should use. Try out many sizes and makes until you find what fits for you, as I did. But quality is remembered long after price is forgotten and Dumont and Bergeon tend to be the winners, although the cheap titanium Cousins tweezers have potential once they are honed properly.

Edited by Jon
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, Jon said:

I tend to use Bergeon brass tweezers No.2 and No.3 for everyday work, as they don't tend to scratch. For serious stuff like replacing a cannon pinion, holding back springs, etc, I use Dumont No.2 carbon steel tweezers, as they are hard as nails and won't give like finer or stainless steel tweezers. (I find vintage carbon steel tweezers so much better than the new ones. I think the composition of the tweezers may have changed over time, making them not as hard and durable... (Just my experience of older carbon steel compared to the new ones). To be honest, I stay well away from stainless steel tweezers because they are as soft as chewing gum, so it's best to go with carbon steel in whatever size/number you need. I bought some titanium Cousins cheapo tweezers No. 6, but they need some serious honing to work with hairsprings, they are a good inexpensive option if you don't use Dumont No.5's for this kind of work. Angled hairspring tweezers, such as No.7's or No.6's are good if working under a microscope, as you can see the hairspring properly under the scope, but if you are doing hairspring manipulation without a microscope I find it nigh on impossible, especially if it takes an hour or more to do the work. There is no way I'm using an X15 or X20 at an 11 mm working distance with a loupe for that amount of time, so a microscope is the only way to go for ease and comfort. Anyone who does use a loupe for hairspring work is doing themselves a massive disservice. I'm speaking from experience of using a loupe in the early days compared to using an x40 microscope now. I only speak from experience. I first bought No.1 and No.3 stainless steel tweezers in the early days and may pick them up every now and then, but they are not my go-to, as they are too soft and too fine for me.

As I've said, this is my experience. I'm not telling anyone what they should use. Try out many sizes and makes until you find what fits for you, as I did. But quality is remembered long after price is forgotten and Dumont and Bergeon tend to be the winners, although the cheap titanium Cousins tweezers have potential once they are honed properly.

I have very similar thoughts even within my short time of this hobby, i much prefer carbon steel for their strength, although i have a really old thick pair that are determined to become a permanent magnet. I like the titanium and also spent over a good hour getting the shape and tension right. They dont scratch but are soft, not as soft as the cheap brass, when i forget to switch in place of a tough pair they quite easily bend, but for 7 quid they're ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes i did eventually realise that the oil will act as a barrier, I'm sure the discussion will continue. Ive had two oleophobic coffees ( added coconut ) and in the meantime i have this just delivered to take my mind off epilame for the time being. My favourite type of dial, its a beautiful looking watch traditional English made and it runs,  the ticktock is phenomenal,  i can hear it across my living room .  You wont believe how much it was. Thats interesting about synthetic oils , i thought the same, going from a 2 year service to 5 years is a big drop in income for service folk.  I expect some did well when they embraced the use of synthetic,  probably drawing in more customers than those that didn't use the new fangled substances , i bet fairly short lived though. The more frequent service makes more sense to me, not for just the service but for the regular check up inspections that might pick up impending faults. As far as epilame goes, wouldn't it be great to be able to fumigate the complete movement in a sealed jar of heated stearic acid, 🤔 now theres a thought 😅.
    • Imm going to close the discussion by attaching the photo of my super-titanium after several vicissitudes finally working. Purchased as not working I replaced the battery and for a stroke of luck I found its semi-new solar panel which, having verified its operation, seems to recharge the accumulator perfectly. I had taken this watch almost by bet, with 40 euros I brought it back to life. The initial half idea was to resell it to finance another purchase, but.. it's definitely a nice item. It would need to check the impermeability but it's a pleasure to see it on the wrist 😃
    • In fact the secret is to go gently and find the way without forcing, and the movement enters without problems
    • Yea a have given it a full service this movement is chinese 2813 whats the lift angle for this movement does anyone knows  and how  do a remove the default  of 52 degrees on my timegrapher?   Hi you said my lift angle is default how do a remove this from my timegrapher?
    • Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com   Anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if it would be more correct to think of epilame as a binder rather than a repellant. Until convinced otherwise that's how I will think of epilame.
×
×
  • Create New...