Jump to content

Brass Vs Stainless Steel Tweezers


Recommended Posts

If I am not mistaken, brass tweezers are softer, hence better for handling more delicate parts to avoid scratches or marks, is that accurate?

If that's the case, why not just use brass tweezers all the time?

What are your understanding about the usage of brass versus stainless steel tweezers?


  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I think you expect an answer from a true watchmaker, but I would like  to present my point of view:


I use brass tweezers ALL THE TIME, except when I need to get in a very narrow space (they are pretty chunky) or have to apply some sort of force.


The brass tweezers are softer so they grip better - somehow they mold around the object. It's less likely to loose a screw when you use brass. They also don't scratch the surface of things - bridges, cocks. When you need to lift bridges you use a screwdriver to lift them a bit, anyway. I also use a brass tweezers to deal with the incabloc jewels.


I find them very useful.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMO brass tweezers are too soft for general work. I use steel tweezers because they are durable (well the quality ones are anyway).

I use brass tweezers when I absolutely do not want to risk damage to what I am holding.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the videos, I've seen Mark regularly switch between the two in a couple of videos, the IWC FA Jones vid shows this in action. Such as using steel tweezers (or whichever alloy his are, e.g. dumoxel) to pick up screws and then immediately switching to brass tweezers for picking up the wheels/bridges, etc. As others have mentioned the reason is quite simple - brass is much softer than steel, so it reduces the risk of scratching surfaces. Not a concern for the average mechanical, but some of these watches are very very expensive ;). Aside from the brass tweezers, there's also the use of pegwood when holding something in place rather than using a second pair of lethal tweezers at a sharp angle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good question, I'm very new to the hobby and bought a no.3 pair of brass tweeezer for around £2.


They seem fine but perhaps I'm just naive because I'm new to the hobby.


Brass tweezers appear to be universally cheap compared to any other alloy used in tweezers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I will often relate learning watch repair is similar to learning to become a doctor. It requires studying may be reading a book definitely reading tech sheets if you can find them but studying understanding. Then practicing continuous practicing forever practicing. Everybody preparing a watch no matter what the level is still practicing exactly the same as a doctor. There are no absolute experts everybody has room to learn. Typically for Springs a magnet will work really well. Then by magnet I don't mean a little magnet something much larger at work we have something that's mounted on a handful with a rather powerful magnets that we can sweep across the floor and sometimes across our bodies looking for hoping to find which for the most part we do. Unfortunately there's a lot of problems with YouTube watch repair videos. For instance the video that you have says servicing? Did he actually service the watch in other words were repairs made or is this really a how to clean the watch video? Then even just for servicing no problems you just disassemble clean the watch put it back together how long does it take can you do it in 15 minutes? How long did the video last versus how long did it take you to service the watch? They skip steps lots of steps so many of the watch repair videos are really entertaining videos that don't cover everything and usually definitely do not cover repairs. At least not a lot of them.   This presents an interesting problem? Watches like this were assembled with automated machinery gears all drop in the place the plates drops on top no human hand touch this watch. But a lot of watches specially vintage stuff tapping Is wishful thinking if you think the pivots will go into place. This brings up a problem with stereo microscopes you're looking straight down. In the dark ages of watch repair when I learned we didn't use microscopes and we were instructed to sit in such a way that you're basically looking into the watch's you can see in the pivots you can see what's going on. Often times I've seen when people are looking straight down even with their super high-power microscope they just really aren't getting a clear picture of what they're doing. It be better if your microscope could be angled at an angle so you can see things a little better as opposed to looking straight down. But I'm sure the entire group embraces their microscope so this would go against the group so carry on with your microscope.            
    • light heat as i have just found out while adding a tongue to a spring . Dont re-harden and temper ( warning from nickelsilver ), all that does is anneal more of the mainspring that gets heated up while hardening.
    • By the way this is my watchmaking (more like watchbreaking) setup. I still haven’t found the lost spring. The date jumper “jumped” from the mat where the movement was to the top of one of the citizen boxes on the right storage drawers. I don’t know if the spring went in the same direction or how far it did.      @ManSkirtBrew I feel you.  I have tried looking with magnets I have attached a strip of magnetic tape to a piece of foam board which I use a bit like a broom. It never found anything though the magnets are pretty weak though and it is likely the reason
    • This is the absolute worst feeling. I've been working on watches over 2 years now, and serviced dozens of movements. You do get better at it, and lose fewer parts. I don't know if it helps, but just last week while installing a shock spring on a friend's late father's Omega, the spring took flight. It took almost an hour of searching with a very strong magnet attached to a Mason jar lid to find it, but I found it. The VERY NEXT DAY while oiling the cap jewel for the same movement, I pinged the jewel to dimensions unknown. I used a UV flashlight to find it. Some days it's just not your day 🙂  
    • @Bluescrew I have just measured the balance staff length in both a shock protected 12.15 (38 60461E, no idea if that means anything date wise), and a non-protected 12.15 (CO10086, dated as 1951 from the inscription on the back) and can confirm that they are different lengths, with the non-protected one coming in at 3.55mm and the shock protected one at 3.74mm, so I don't think that the Ronda 4818 is going to help you.  
  • Create New...