Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Only recently have I employed a balloon chuck.  Once I realized their utility, I decided to try.  I have multiple.  Some I inherited and some from various watchmaker tool lots.

So far...all of them I have tested are imprecise.  Not the problem with the chuck...I checked.  Maybe I am too critical.  But with a pivot wobbling back and forth, how am I going to polish it?

Maybe it is a fundamental problem...dunno...comments??

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

imprecise.  Not the problem with the chuck...I checked.

I'm not quite sure what you're saying here?

I have found it typically there is one of the bluing shocks that I have that I prefer so I had the mark that so I know which one I preferred because some they well I just typically don't use some even though I have five or so what work I usually have one that I marked because I know what works well. Sometimes it looks like it's wobbling I just taken out of the 5 mm Chuck that it's in and just put it back in again and it seems to be fine.

Casually from memory any of the ones that have the end that screws off I don't recall them ever being where there supposed to be. But I suspect if they get dropped that's going to be an issue.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We had some in school, I found the same, not very true. Our teacher mentioned that when new, the cap has no hole, and you were to drill it in the lathe it would be used in. I kind of doubt that; the ones I saw were on 8mm collet shanks, which if made well, should seat in a good lathe spindle within a few microns each time. But there's the thing; a set of balloon chucks from Levin would pretty certainly be excellently made, and work well. A set from Marshall, they might make the body diameter a bit smaller to be sure it would fit in whatever spindle. That won't repeat very well at all- the body diameter is very, very important- it's not just the angle on the collet head/spindle bore that gives repeatable precision.

 

I never saw the attraction of balloon chucks or some of the little "pivot polishers" that hold the balance between centers, with the pivot to be worked on sticking out a thin support. But we were drilled on Jacot tool use in school, and I keep one set up a meter from my bench at all times.

 

 

Levin Pivot Polisher 01.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JohnR725 said:

I'm not quite sure what you're saying here?

I have found it typically there is one of the bluing shocks that I have that I prefer so I had the mark that so I know which one I preferred because some they well I just typically don't use some even though I have five or so what work I usually have one that I marked because I know what works well. Sometimes it looks like it's wobbling I just taken out of the 5 mm Chuck that it's in and just put it back in again and it seems to be fine.

Casually from memory any of the ones that have the end that screws off I don't recall them ever being where there supposed to be. But I suspect if they get dropped that's going to be an issue.

 

The body seemed to run true, but the hole in the end where the pivot protrudes did not run true.

1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

But we were drilled on Jacot tool use

I have one...I guess I am going to have to learn to use it!! 

I have Levin step collets.  I put the balance in one of those yesterday and it ran true, but I think I just need to learn the Jacot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been very curious about balloon chucks.  I haven't really been sure how they are supposed to be used,  I wasn't even sure what they are for!  I'm guessing from the comments that they are for polishing pivots, but I don't see how that works. To me, it looks like the balance is mounted inside the chuck, but I don't see what keeps the balance from spinning freely inside the chuck.  

Now a Jacot tools I understand, I just have to get better at using it 🙂

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, dadistic said:

I've been very curious about balloon chucks.  I haven't really been sure how they are supposed to be used,  I wasn't even sure what they are for!  I'm guessing from the comments that they are for polishing pivots, but I don't see how that works. To me, it looks like the balance is mounted inside the chuck, but I don't see what keeps the balance from spinning freely inside the chuck.  

Now a Jacot tools I understand, I just have to get better at using it 🙂

 

@jdricharddoes a pretty good job here.  Quite clever actually.  The pivot protrudes beyond the end of the head.  But to work, the hole needs to be true...thus this thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm always amazed jd uses his crappy Peerless lathe so much when he has like a dozen others including a beautiful Paulson (made by Boley Leinen).

 

As you can see, you polish the sticking out in the air pivot, in his case with a burnisher, but many in the past used bronze or even wood with polishing paste. In a Jacot, one side of the pivot is supported in a beautifully made bed of its exact size. It becomes almost a challenge to break a pivot. But pivot unsupported... yikes.

 

The Jacot didn't catch on in the U.S. like in Europe, way back early 20th century skilled yanks used "pivot polishers" which were actually sophisticated live spindle grinders to shape and finish pivots. While really useful for many things, I can do both sides of a new staff in a Jacot before you'd even get one of those devices clamped in the lathe bed.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the link. It answered the last question I had, which is that the balance is held by friction, it has to be tight enough that it doesn't spin inside the check as you burnish. 

I'll stick with the Jacot, and as usual, practice, practice, practice.

Cheers!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

But we were drilled on Jacot tool use in school,

I'm curious about which school. The first school the instructor used a balloon chuck For polishing the pivots and it worked fine. Like any tool if you understand how to use it you can make use of it some tools of course work better than others. The second school I don't even remember seeing anything for polishing pivots at all. But way back when they didn't have Deeper pockets as they did later on.

40 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

But pivot unsupported... yikes.

Like anything you just have to be careful. Although I would agree the term burnishing isn't exactly what I would think in this set up because I don't think you can get enough pressure but Indefinitely polish the pivots and make them look nicer which a lot of times is all you need.

14 minutes ago, dadistic said:

I'll stick with the Jacot, and as usual, practice, practice, practice.

I once had some old-time watchmaker show me how to use the tool. When he did it it produce the most beautiful black polish I've ever seen so tool is really outstanding but. As he pointed out if you want to be good at it you have to use it in practice every single day basically into a really really good and you probably should still continue to practice. It's like everything else in watch repair it requires lots of practice. Then his other comment made was that your bird assure basically should conform to the shape of your pivots so conceivably you might need more than one burnish her because you may have different curvatures although you may not be concerned about polishing the curved partier pivot.

So for me since I didn't practice and finally sold my tool because I was never using it anyway I just use the balloon chuck. Which for the most part works fine. No matter what if you have some staffs you really should just replace them neither tool necessarily is a miracle fixed to make you a new pivot.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ordered a little machine vise from AliExpress, so that it could sit flat on my bench. Doesn't add a lot of height, so It all fits under my microscope.  Hefty little piece of steel,  but this one is a bit small.  I would set up a mounted vice, but it's a little tricky drilling holes in a glass top 🙂

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803197259569.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.7370194dDaqeYh&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

Mine is the 1.5". There is one that is bigger, The QGG50, that is 2" that I think would work even better.  

IMG_20230118_140551.thumb.jpg.a7c0bf748dc98a0a1a1399b441297fca.jpg

Cheers!

 

Edited by dadistic
Added picture and text
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/18/2023 at 9:11 PM, JohnR725 said:

I'm curious about which school.

 

I went to the (then) AWI school, late 90s. In my year they brought in "experts" for each stage. When we got to pivot work, it was a fellow called Ron DeCorte, who broke our balls super hard, but we were making 0.05mm pivots with confidence by the time he left. When I later went to WOSTEP I spent some time learnin' a couple of their full training students in the use of the Jacot. The teacher they had then was very nice, but very hands-off, sink or swim. One of those students (meant to sink) went on to work with a killer artisanal watchmaker, where I worked too in the early 2000s. He went on to work for Dufour, I went independent; still best of friends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • RichardHarris123: Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  I have family all over Australia, went as £10 poms Thanks Richard. Hope you’re able to visit your family here and that they’ve all done well 🙂 My relatives arrived from England in the 1790s transported on the ‘Second & Third Fleets’—a story of timber sailing ships, of convicts and doing well in this huge Country of Australia. When I visited the UK in the 1980s, I was too young to comprehend the depth and breadth of its history…  Best wishes, Mike William Chapman, my 4th great Grandad’s charges, at age 23 read at the Old Bailey; sentenced to 7 years of transportation to Sydney.
    • The whole process and the progress are closely observed, it's hand-driven and very controlled. I can't see the "danger", unless you are watching the TV while doing it. As you could have read, and in this quote "wheel" is the balance-wheel.
    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
×
×
  • Create New...