Jump to content

Crystal tension ring stuck in case


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone!

i have backed myself into a really tight corner here.

i was taking off a tension ring crystal on my Omega Constellation when it suddenly cracked on me and left the tension ring and a ring of plastic left in the case. Does anyone know how I can fix this without ruining the dial?

huge thanks in beforehand!

 

8D12F10F-9C27-472A-BCDB-6958F0EAA1B7.jpeg

B10B51DF-A98D-4F42-ACE5-891DBA0D101E.jpeg

4030BC4B-EAF4-47D2-A900-118192EEFB20.jpeg

I also forgot to mention that there is no caseback

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, BrehmerR said:

i was taking off a tension ring crystal on my Omega Constellation

Using the Claw type crystal Lift is not recommended on tension ring crystals As you've discovered the tension ring does not compress and the crystal will break their.

5 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Remove the movement from the case,by doing this you have no fears of causing damage to the dial or movement. You should be able to use a small screwdriver blade just under the ring and gently ease the ring out, or a very thin type of blade. 

Can't tell from your picture whether this is a watch that comes out the front or the back. Because of you can't take it out the back you will have to take what's left of the crystal out first. Look carefully at the metal ring there should be a crack someplace as it's usually not a solid ring. It almost looks like at the 12 o'clock position perhaps? So you can find with a crack is it's easier you can put something on the backside between the ring in the crystal and gently try to pry it out of the way. But it really would be preferred if you could remove the entire watch first.

Then you also want to try to save the ring because the original Omega rings tend to fit better than the Some aftermarket rings

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

Using the Claw type crystal Lift is not recommended on tension ring crystals As you've discovered the tension ring does not compress and the crystal will break their.

Can't tell from your picture whether this is a watch that comes out the front or the back. Because of you can't take it out the back you will have to take what's left of the crystal out first. Look carefully at the metal ring there should be a crack someplace as it's usually not a solid ring. It almost looks like at the 12 o'clock position perhaps? So you can find with a crack is it's easier you can put something on the backside between the ring in the crystal and gently try to pry it out of the way. But it really would be preferred if you could remove the entire watch first.

Then you also want to try to save the ring because the original Omega rings tend to fit better than the Some aftermarket rings

It’s a solid caseback so I can’t remove the movement from the case. The little crack is at the 9 o clock position so I’ll try to see if I can pry on it there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, BrehmerR said:

t’s a solid caseback so I can’t remove the movement from the case.

It's hard to tell in your picture but look carefully and see if you have a Bezel ring on the front which is actually holding the crystal in place. Because usually the Omega tension ring frontloading cases had a separate bezel ring that held all of this together. In other words you remove the bezel ring and the crystal comes off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

It's hard to tell in your picture but look carefully and see if you have a Bezel ring on the front which is actually holding the crystal in place. Because usually the Omega tension ring frontloading cases had a separate bezel ring that held all of this together. In other words you remove the bezel ring and the crystal comes off.

Definitely no tension bezel ring. I have tried filing away as much excess crystal as possible but I just can't get enything between the crystal and tension ring. It seems impossible. And I definitely wouldn't be able to pry on the tension ring from behind without damaging the dial. 

I know that these armored crystals aren't removed with crystal lifts. I have however, had success with that multiple times before since I don't have anything else. I usually squeeze pretty tight and then try to turn and pull upwards at the same time. Are you supposed to use an air compressor instead?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi The use of compressed air requires the stem to be removed and as your watch is a front loader, (no removeable case back).  The stem will in all probabillity be a split stem allowing you the remove the outer portion enabling you to fit the pump/syringe and pump the air in. Now comes the rub, removing the stem portion (if it is a split stem) requires a vertical pull to separate the two parts. In a normal scenario the bezel will have been removed along with the crystal the stem turned so that the split is dial up allowing the movement to drop out and the stem to seperate naturally without force. Have you checked tha the bezel is removable or not. Look for a slight indent around the periphery of the bezel for a case knife or bezel tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, BrehmerR said:

Definitely no tension bezel ring

What is the back of the case look like? In other words does it have any words on it like use a special tool or something? Because normally the crystals that have a tension ring would have an outer bezel ring the whole the whole thing in place which you don't have? That may mean that you're supposed to use a special tool and they usually tell you that on the outside of the case.

In any case at some point in time when you get inside you can give me the case number I'll look up something

okay if you're really careful keyed up a really tiny screwdriver tip or some other piece of metal and you should build a shove it between or through the crystal in other words you can melt the crystal just be careful then once you get your tool in far enough you should build a pop the inside ring out. Just try not to go to deepen scratch the dial but I don't think you'll do that and no I don't remember where I've seen this or why even remember this but if you heat up something the crystal should melt you should build a shove it in words right now the crystals under a lot of tension and it's really hard and as you found out nothing shoves in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/4/2022 at 5:55 PM, JohnR725 said:

What is the back of the case look like? In other words does it have any words on it like use a special tool or something? Because normally the crystals that have a tension ring would have an outer bezel ring the whole the whole thing in place which you don't have? That may mean that you're supposed to use a special tool and they usually tell you that on the outside of the case.

In any case at some point in time when you get inside you can give me the case number I'll look up something

okay if you're really careful keyed up a really tiny screwdriver tip or some other piece of metal and you should build a shove it between or through the crystal in other words you can melt the crystal just be careful then once you get your tool in far enough you should build a pop the inside ring out. Just try not to go to deepen scratch the dial but I don't think you'll do that and no I don't remember where I've seen this or why even remember this but if you heat up something the crystal should melt you should build a shove it in words right now the crystals under a lot of tension and it's really hard and as you found out nothing shoves in.

This is what I was thinking about doing too. I have some really small drill bits too. Either try to drill the crystal into pieces behind the crystal tension ring or melt it with a hot screwdriver or whatever. I'll try to take the hands off and put plastic all over the dial. 
I have the case number by the way. I have already serviced the watch. I just noticed that the hands were a little off so I decided to take the crystal off like i've done like 4 times before already but that's when it snapped. 

Case number is 168.025

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile, and not less mobile which is the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
    • Would it be correct to say that the stronger the mainspring, the thicker the oil should be? So for a fusee mainspring, should a thick grease be used?
×
×
  • Create New...