Jump to content

Dove head first straight in


Rossman

Recommended Posts

After watching a few watch repair YouTube videos this past summer I've decided to give watch repair a trial run as my latest hobby.  It seems like a good fit for me personally.  I'm an aerospace mechanical design engineer by trade and as such, a lover of all things mechanical. I currently collect, maintain, and modify sports cars and bicycles.  I love working with my hands doing general hobbyist mechanical and fabrication work including milling, drilling, turning, welding (TIG and MIG) and additive manufacturing.  It appears that there are many folks here who share similar interests.  Now it looks like I'll be adding watch repair to that list!

So, as usual for for me, I dove straight in, started taking the WatchFix.com courses, purchased a bunch of tools and and a couple of inexpensive "repair or parts" watches off eBay. As you might imagine, I'm here because I've already run into a problem with the first watch I've tried to repair. 

Anyway, that's enough about me, I'm here to ask for some help and maybe one day share my experience with others.

Cheers,

Ross

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

As you will find out it can be a very expensive  hobby. The more you get into it you will find the more tools you will need. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Welcome to the WRT forum.

Thanks! I'm having a hard time not seeing WRT as "with respect to". 🙂

 

14 hours ago, watchweasol said:

and he is right, you always need another tool.

I've very familiar with the concept! I have quite a few "just in case I need it" tools!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Update: I posted over on NAWCC and it looks like I melted the fine coil wires where they come into the solder lugs. After dropping the heat way down on my iron and being absurdly careful, I have a humming fork!
    • Hell0 @nevenbekriev. Thank you for your advice. I have removed the old setting using my staking set--I will keep the KIF spring, since it is still good.  I am awaiting the replacement setting, and will update when I do that. In the mean time, I looked at the escape wheel and it looks ok. What do you think?    
    • Aloha All, I recently bought this Seitz tool on eBay, but it is missing some pushers reamers.  I ended up ordering new parts for those that were missing before I received the actual Seitz tool (bad idea).   Upon inspecting the pushers/bits, I noticed 23 of the 56 provided with the set had no numbers. Further inspection revealed a huge difference in the quality of those unnumbered.  Do all Seitz pushers/bits have a number on them?  I'm pretty sure that 33 of the 56 I received are cheap Chinese knockoffs.  The worst part is that I ordered $80 of parts to replace the missing pushers/bits, and now I'm looking to return the tool. I'm not crazy, right? If these are Seitz parts, they should all be numbered, correct? The first two pictures are the Seitz (numbered), and the other pictures are the suspect parts.  Will I even be able to get a refund?  Thanks, Frank     
    • It was £10 + min fee, total £16, could not leave it there. Its a Stanton A.D.2. http://stanton-instruments.co.uk/
    • Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
×
×
  • Create New...