Jump to content

Book that covers Staking


Recommended Posts

Hi. Is there a good book that covers the various uses of the staking set? The other books recommended for beginners in this forum don't cover this topic. I found a PDF of the instructions that came with the k and d inverto set, but they are very hard to read and to understand as they are written in very old terminology. Any ideas ? thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whilst the book Guy recommended has great reviews it is no longer in print and seems to me to be very hard to get hold of. There is another by Archie Perkins which is available and covers the same information. For me though I find it prohibitably expensive.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antique-Watch-Restoration-Vol-1/dp/0615633609/ref=sr_1_7?crid=MOT27RGZLRUH&keywords=Archie+perkins&qid=1669359108&s=books&sprefix=archie+perkins%2Cstripbooks%2C72&sr=1-7

 

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, tomh207 said:

I found this pdf the other day as I am also looking for this information.

 

Tom

220551081_StakingToolsandHowtoUseThem1910-163pBW-S.pdf 44.01 MB · 16 downloads

That is the PDF I have. It is an extract from Kand D catalogue. Various sites try to sell it to people for upto £40 ! The other books are really hard to find, and not at reasonable prices  Why are wTch repair books so hard to get? is it because all potential authors now use YouTube? but a good diagram sometimes is much better than a view of someone's fingers on a screen with a voice over ! but thanks for all answers

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, OceanSprint said:

in very old terminology

You may have to rethink watch repair of old terminology is going to be a problem for you. And a lot of fields something that's old is probably a couple years old old here could be 100 years. Technical sheets books can be 50+ years old. Then there is the other problem not just the time how old it is but where it came from. In other words horological terminology varies with time and location of where it comes from. So you can end up with parts going by a variety of names over time even in a specific country and then you throw in other books which may call it an entirely different parts there is several parts that will have some variations in name because of that.

1 hour ago, OceanSprint said:

Why are wTch repair books so hard to get?

Part of the problem is supply and demand or specifically demand. Currently how many people would like to have a book on learning watch repair? Versus how to fix my automobile or the kitchen sink or basically just about anything else in the universe. Watch repair is a specialty field and hobbyists watch repair is even a tiny near specialty field in the overall field of watch repair.

Oh and YouTube just because somebody is on YouTube with a watch repair video doesn't mean they actually have any idea what the heck they're doing. There are a lot of really really bad videos out there very very bad and they have a big following lots of people because well I guess they do.

So basically it be really careful because he is even websites I saw one once the person claimed learning watch repair is really hard is no resources and they were going to show you how to do it the problem was I don't know where that person learned watch repair but they were very good at and teaching date set a lot of bad things.

So for book references here's something on staking sets

https://kanddinverto.weebly.com/

 

This is a interesting website it does have other horological books you'll just have to figure out the terminology to find what you're looking for. This is interesting book and you will note when you're on the website you can download the stuff for free and a variety of formats. But this one is a good book as it is a training manual. Oh and thinking old terminology download the book and look at the tool section those tools have been around for the last hundred years. Other than maybe the lighting in the cleaning machine perhaps everything in the picture the tools could easily be on a watchmakers bench right now with no real changes at all. So yes and watch repair we of old books old terminology in very old tools it for lucky.

https://archive.org/details/TM9-1575

Bulova stuff but some of it very interesting like They have the same manual at the link above which gives you a clue of somebody else has the same thing of yes you should download that. Then scroll down the page until you get to the section titled Joseph School of Watch Making Individual chapters but farther down to can download the entire book definitely something nice to have

https://www.mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs

Another good source of horological books

https://www.booksimonin.ch/home.php

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
×
×
  • Create New...