Jump to content

Seiko SRPE65K1


Adie

Recommended Posts

This probably looks a bit cheeky but im very new to this and found this site and thought id risk an ask.  I have seiko SRPE65K1 watch which is a few months old.  Unfortunately i dropped it and the face badly shattered and the watch stopped.  I removed the movement and it started working again there were some small shards of glass on the face.  I ordered a new crystal and left the movement out covered by a plastic cup winding it occasionally. It worked fine for around 7 days until the replacement crystal came. I fitted the crystal and the watch seemed fine I wore it for about two days then it stopped.  Im happy to try give this a go and try and sort this. If  anyone has any pointers as to what the fault might be id appreciate it.  Thanks
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello and welcome to the forum, we usually like to have an introduction so members know whom they are talking to and their skill levels.   Can you post some pictures of the watch , front/back and the movement. Also what is the caliber number of the movement.     The symptoms you describe would lead one to believe that there are still some crumbs/shards in the movement and wearing it has moved them into a position causing the watch to stop.  So remove the movement and inspect the movement again. It may require stripping down and cleaning to remove all the debris hence the reason the caliber number would help should we be able to get a service/tech sheet for the watch in order to help you. cheers

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses. I believe the movement is an SR45. I did visit two shops and make an online enguiry about a professional repair. However, the best price i was offered was for a replacement crystal at over a third the value of the watch. It was also pointed out that the hands were out of alignment and other work might be required with the suggestion that a professional repair might be uneconomic. This is why as a complete novice I attempted this repair with a few cheap tools. Although I have been unsucessful I am inspired to read up on this further. Perhaps with bit more knowledge and some better tools I could consider further disassembling the watch. Im not expecting to succesfully repair the watch but I would like to have a better understanding of how the movement works. Thanks again for allowing this post and your suggestions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Adie  no problem, not sure just ask.   Have a read through the two documents it will give you a better understanding of how a watch works and the tools required for service and repair. pictures of the front/back and the movement always aid diagnosis.  The caliber number is usually under the balance wheel or on the back plate or even the rotor. a picture of the back plate with all the numbers as well.  thanks.

TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf 1612608791_ToolsfortheHobbyist (2) (1).pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This is a flying cutter, usual one. The cutter itself is shown in the pictures in the first message, it is made of broken tungsten carbide drill bit. I asure that all the angles of the cutter are as they should be. I have video - little older one - that I made when onse making the same kind of winding pinion for a Poljot 2200, which is even smaller than this one. It is not easy to see in the video, but the tool rest moves about 1mm towards the object in Y direction and then returns back untill cutter is rotating. Then the spindle is rotated one tooth ahead and everything repeated untill all teeth are cut.
    • After a bit further research could it possibly be an AS 970?
    • Latest project was a non-running ebay purchase with an FHF70 movement. I stripped and cleaned it, reassembled it, and got it running. So far so good, nothing damaged AFAIK.  I was oiling the top jewel on the balance (the one in the cock) which was a slightly unusual shock setting. I removed the spring (3 leaves) which was part of a chaton holding the cap jewel. This left the hole jewel behind which I retrieved with rodico and then lost it. I was taking it off the rodico, very gently as I thought, with tweezers, and then it just disappeared.  Fast forward a week, I got a donor movement, non-running, with the plan to just take the shock jewel that I’d lost. It was the same movement but had standard incabloc settings, and was steel rather than copper/brass.  I changed the cock and balance complete and it ran, not very well. I switched the lower jewel setting, cleaned and oiled both jewels and the replacement balance. Without the pallet fork the balance swings very nicely with a puff of air. With the fork in place, balance out, it flicks side to side nicely with power in the mainspring.  Put them together and it doesn’t run. The impulse jewel sits in the fork and it stops.      Any suggestions how I proceed? In case you didn’t follow that I have 2 FHF70 movements, nothing broken as far as I can tell, but mixing up the balance wheels and jewel settings results in a non runner. 
    • Oh and this almost perfect third wheel pivot and slightly set mainspring  Ah ok yes i see what you mean, good idea. I'll try that if i fluff this one up. The image isn't great quality but i like the idea though.
    • Why cut the paper, cut a square around the image and grind to it. 
×
×
  • Create New...