Jump to content

Third Wheel extended Pivot - Bulova 10AK


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone!

I am servicing a Bulova 10AK with a drive wheel on the top of the main bridge.

This drive wheel (golden wheel in the picture) is attached to the third wheel (located below the bridge) by the extended pivot through the bridge (there is a jewel between them).

I am looking for the third wheel with extended pivot (it seems a little bended) but I can't find references or suply for this movement. 

Maybe this part is the same used in other movements of Bulova in this age (10Ak seems from the end of 40's), but I could not find anything related too.

Does anyone know any path in order to find a replacement for this part?

5BBBE602-D9C0-48B7-B592-95FC0A2FDFB7.thumb.jpeg.53bacc2cca85e88e00c9135104cfb801.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've attached a page from a Bulova parts catalog, I think you're looking for part #5B

It doesn't look like that part is shared with any other calibres, just the AKc.s. (center seconds) and AKCSH (center seconds, hacking).

That will be a tough part to find, most likely source will be a donor movement. 

IMG_20220924_192612.thumb.jpg.8b80e9c81a5f0e7461614d778ee9e7b5.jpg

Edited by dadistic
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, dadistic said:

I've attached a page from a Bulova parts catalog, I think you're looking for part #5B

It doesn't look like that part is shared with any other calibres, just the AKc.s. (center seconds) and AKCSH (center seconds, hacking).

That will be a tough part to find, most likely source will be a donor movement. 

IMG_20220924_192612.thumb.jpg.8b80e9c81a5f0e7461614d778ee9e7b5.jpg

Thank you!

Sad news. I found a third wheel of Bulova 10xx very similaron ebay the of the mov family but according this sheet it won’t work though. It seems my A-11 project is rest in peace. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

another reference for cross-referencing parts is at the link below which does bring up another problem. as you see there were lots of variations of the third wheel seat at the very careful in ordering one to order the exact one that you need or you'll be in for a surprise.

then the other thing nice about the site below is when you click on the wheel you think you want to purchase whether or not they still have it or not you get the second link which lists all the watches that use the same part in other words you get the cross reference

then the part number is looking for would be 214/30. This is where unfortunately the online material houses will typically not list this kind of thing. Is where you have to make an inquiry to the various material houses as to whether they have the part. Because they have way more parts not listed than they actually have listed then sometimes you can take the part number and go to their home page of the main websites and at least it find out whether it's still available but it doesn't even come up on the listing. In fact he gets confused with it being out lot of other things which is very unhelpful.

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=BUL_10AK

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=V]^DZD

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • You're thinking metal to jewel in general I guess. Maybe it would be a good idea to peg the pallet jewel hole on the main plate after the epilame treatment. I think that could work as it is my impression that the epilame doesn't sit very hard, but I could be wrong about that so feel free to educate me. I didn't remember that 9501 was thixotropic (thanks for the link). That would mean it's even runnier during impact (lower viscosity) so perhaps it's time I get some fresh grease as mine seems a bit too runny. What I have seen is a whitish surface after washing but it goes away if I scrub the surface with a brush in a degreaser (Horosolv). I don't think it embeds itself in the metal but sticks very hard to the metal. I don't worry too much about the cleaning solution. I just want perfectly clean parts and my solution can be replaced for little money (ELMA RED 1:9). Anyway, I quite often need "to strip back and rebuild" and scrubbing parts by hand isn't exactly the most stimulating part of a service.
    • I’ve had a couple movements where it is clear the previous watchmaker was diligent with lubrication but the old epilam had turned to a fine white powder covering the pallet fork and keyless parts, which can’t be good for parts. I’m spare with epi since I don’t know how long it takes to degrade to that state…
    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro. I thought the idea was for the epilame to create a barrier, a wall between the lubrication and anything else, so the lube cant spread.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
×
×
  • Create New...