Jump to content

Missing Spring?


RogerH

Recommended Posts

So, a friend has bought a nice looking 1930s German wall clock. The standard R&A Vienna style. He asked me to get it going but when I went to fit the pendulum there was no suspension spring. I only managed a few pics but am I missing something? I can't see how this clock would work without a pendulum but no idea how it would fit. Hopefully he'll bring it round so I can have proper look but any thoughts would be much appreciated. 

20220827_215700.jpg

20220827_215707.jpg

20220827_215656.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  The fact that it has a crutch confirms the point that it should have a pendulum and suspension but looking at the escapement pictures where it fits is an other thing. need a few more pics of the escapement block and fittings, and one of the clock front.  A check on th front for a makers mark.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are missing the block that screws onto the balance cock. Does the dial have a little hole above the 12 on the dial because if it has then it will be a Brocot suspension block. See photos, if not it will still be like the photo but not with the long adjuster. 

download.jpg

download (1).jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never seen screws like the ones holding the movement together before.  Any chance the pendulum is carried in another section of the clock and the movement just racks in aligning on those screws.  It also has a very generously relieved crutch.  Possibly for better alignment of two parts that you may not have a hand on at the time of installation.  That would also reduce the possibility of damaging it or unintentionally affecting its rate.

Just spit ballin.

Shane 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I just picked up a clock with an identical movement at an antique store in France.  I puzzled over the same issue. I think that Shane above is correct. My clock is missing the suspension spring, but the movement works perfectly.  The movement slips into the wooden case and is held by a brass bracket. At the top of the bracket is a protrusion that has both a slit  and a small hole for a pin.  The pendulum would seem to fit perfectly with a small suspension spring (which I don’t have yet) that fits into the slit in that protrusion. When the movement is attached to the bracket, the crutch should align with the pendulum. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
    • one of the problems we have is visible versus invisible. For instance millennium disulfide another high pressure lubricant black in color. I was told by somebody worked for the Boeing company that they had a piston like device somewhere that has eight call it around it to grab it so it has to slide and in the collet has to grab. But if somebody puts that type of dry grease on where grease with that in it it embeds itself basically in the metal and they have to throw the whole part away they get use it all. So I suspect on all the dry powdery lubricants that they will go into all the basically microscopic cracks and crannies of the metaland that's where it is visually at least until you scrub it off your visually going to see it which is good because you want your lubrication the stay word is. But I'm sure it doesn't last forever on the metal it's just a really nice lubrication  
    • Thanks for the info. I can't seem to find tech sheets for those either.  I'll muddle my way though 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...