Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

I am disassembling a Waltham 1883 pocket watch. The crown is integrated into the case so when i remove the movement from the case i have nothing to hold onto when i move the click to release the power on the mainspring. I don't see anyway to separate the crown from the case.

I have seen pictures of some Waltham cases where it looks like there is a set screw in the case that may release the crown as a separate piece. Unfortunately, mine is not one of those.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Posted
33 minutes ago, signcarver said:

I am disassembling a Waltham 1883 pocket watch.

Please post good pictures of all aspects of the problem to help others help you. That is necessary with most repair questions.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

There are bench keys for most old pocket watches. When you remove the stem from the case and have the movement, there is a stem in the movement with a square socket in the keyless. The bench key for the Elgin I was working on looks like this (between the tweezers and the steel rule - it has different square sizes on each end). I got this one from https://www.daveswatchparts.com/ He was easy to deal with and helped me to get the correct size tool.

I suspect that buying the tool for a single job would be silly if you are at all handy. You could measure the size socket, buy some square stock (or file some to size) and use in a pin vise. You might also get away with using a screw driver with a width equal to the corner to corner width of the socket - but using square stock would be better (less likely to bugger up the socket).

bench key.jpg

Edited by grsnovi
added "make your own"
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Yes, you're pretty much going to need a let-down key to do the job safely. I suppose you could pull the sleeve and stem from the case pendant and use the crown/stem combo, but it's a bit tricky and you might end up springing the sleeve that threads into the pendant. And you'd be messing with the important depth of it as well. Forget I mentioned it. 🙂

If you look on da Bay, you might find a K&D let-down key that has one bar on the handle, which is the largest one. That will be the size you'd need for an 18s Waltham like an 1883 model, regardless of the grade. BTW, a serial number would be helpful to establish the likely grade. Images work as well. Good luck.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, signcarver said:

I am disassembling a Waltham 1883 pocket watch. The crown is integrated into the case so when i remove the movement from the case i have nothing to hold onto when i move the click to release the power on the mainspring. I don't see anyway to separate the crown from the case.

That is standard for most American pocket watches the stem and crown Are part of the case and the movement is a separate item.. Then as others have mentioned you definitely need the let down keys to both wind the watch and let the power off. 

13 hours ago, signcarver said:

I have seen pictures of some Waltham cases where it looks like there is a set screw in the case that may release the crown as a separate piece. Unfortunately, mine is not one of those.

The problem is the American pocket watch cases have lots of variables. For instance the setscrew variety is typically found on lever set watches because there is no need to pull the crown into setting. If the crown pulls into a setting position you have a sleeve and I would really try not to mess with that if it's working as if you break it there won't be a replacement typically.

As others have mentioned you need bench keys standard for working on American pocket watches. I've attached some pictures of bench key is and a few keys for key wind watches. Worst-case grab a piece amenable in a file and just make a key. Do not try to use your screwdriver as others have it doesn't always end well and getting replacement components can be a challenge. Although you could file a screwdriver down to be Square to fit in if you can find one the right size that would give you handle the hold onto.

Even notice in the images there's plans for bench key is as at one time this is a standard project for students taking watch repair.

Then I have a image of what the watch looks like from the parts catalog. The problem is it is a model number but it had lots and lots of variations. You definitely want to get pictures when you disassemble or otherwise putting it back together might be interesting. Then of course this is a full plate there are certain challenges with full plates.

Also if you have your serial number you can look up the watch at the link below.

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/

 

bench keys catalog P2.JPG

bench keys catalog P1.JPG

watch keys.JPG

plans bench keys Elgin college.JPG

bench keys pocket watch.JPG

Waltham 1883 variations.JPG

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

Thank you all so much. I need the straight letdown key like JohnR725 posted in his top picture. I didn't know they existed. Thanks again to all who took time to read my post and answer.

Forgot to say (guess this would have been helpful in my original post - sorry - new to this... - 

Here is my specific watch (looked up by serial number).

My movement is serial number 8513419 and has Appleton Tracy and Co. (a.k.a A T & Co.) stamped on the movement.

Edited by signcarver
  • Like 2
Posted

The Appleton Tracy & Co. grade is one of the highest grades of '83 model. It was close between it and the Crescent St. '83. Some of the ones with nickel plates are gorgeous to look at. Even the gilt models are fabulous. The dials are usually the right amount of fancy for my tastes. And the stock hands are often a cut above as well.  If the only thing the watch needs is a clean and oil, you're fortunate.

Just be sure that you're very careful when you disassemble the movement. Full-plate movements like the '83 Waltham have what is called a potance that hangs down under the top plate and accepts the lower balance pivot. The trouble comes because the fingers of the pallet fork extend into the potance, with the fork side on the lower plate. Many a full-plate movement has broken pallet pivots because people took them apart without making sure the lower pivot is free of it's jewel before lifting. This is critical.

In addition, when you put it back together, it's generally best to assemble the watch upper plate down. I believe that I have used a 16s movement holder to hold the 18s upper plate while upside down. I know I posted about it on the NAWCC MB a year or two back. Good luck. Cheers.

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, MrRoundel said:

The Appleton Tracy & Co. grade is one of the highest grades of '83 model. It was close between it and the Crescent St. '83. Some of the ones with nickel plates are gorgeous to look at. Even the gilt models are fabulous. The dials are usually the right amount of fancy for my tastes. And the stock hands are often a cut above as well.  If the only thing the watch needs is a clean and oil, you're fortunate.

Just be sure that you're very careful when you disassemble the movement. Full-plate movements like the '83 Waltham have what is called a potance that hangs down under the top plate and accepts the lower balance pivot. The trouble comes because the fingers of the pallet fork extend into the potance, with the fork side on the lower plate. Many a full-plate movement has broken pallet pivots because people took them apart without making sure the lower pivot is free of it's jewel before lifting. This is critical.

In addition, when you put it back together, it's generally best to assemble the watch upper plate down. I believe that I have used a 16s movement holder to hold the 18s upper plate while upside down. I know I posted about it on the NAWCC MB a year or two back. Good luck. Cheers.

 

 

Thank you MrRoundel. Excellent information which i will heed!

Posted

YW for the info, signcarver. I checked my post on the NAWCC board and found that I was using the 16s movement holder to assemble a couple of 1857 model Walthams. With luck it will work with an '83 as well. I just don't know for certain. If I can test it out soon I will post later with an update. Cheers.

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...