Jump to content

Hairspring Made of Blue Carbon Steel


Recommended Posts

I'm working on a vintage Omega 620 for my wife which had a bad hairspring along with needing a new mainspring and a lower balance shock (incabloc) setting. I purchased a donor movement that had a good balance, and the setting I needed...the mainspring I simply purchased from CasKer.

The steel of the hairspring is the blue carbon steel and not the white steel that I've seen in every watch I took apart in my short time tinkering with watches. When did Omega stop using the blue carbon steel springs?   I don't want to put in a hairspring if its not the proper type steel.

 

The movement it came out of is from 1968.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hairspring's grade is what matters, I am not sure if the color indicates the grade. 

Traditionally hairsprings in Omega are high grade I think grade or No 1 , there are No2 up to five I believe.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

 I don't want to put in a hairspring if its not the proper type steel.

It's not like you really have a choice here? Hairsprings are usually not replaceable usually come with the balance wheel. Then as others have pointed out just because it's blue in color doesn't mean that it's steel.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Hairsprings are usually not replaceable usually come with the balance wheel.

That's what I did...I took the entire balance, cock and all from the donor movement along with the lower shock setting.  But when I saw the color of the steel, I'm no longer sure if the hairspring and balance wheel from the donor is the proper match.

If the monometallic metal that Joe mentioned did come in white and blue, I'm comfortable with that and will proceed with the rebuild to get it on a time-grapher.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@PostwarO27   If you are anything as terrible with dynamic poising as I am, then we can't tell a Chronograde oscilator apart from a regular one anyway. I go ahead and fix the watch with what you got, it'll run accurate. I mean you don't plan to send the piece in for COSC approval do you? 

 

2 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

@PostwarO27   If you are anything as terrible with dynamic poising as I am, then we can't tell a Chronograde oscilator apart from a regular one anyway. I go ahead and fix the watch with what you got, it'll run accurate. I mean you don't plan to send the piece in for COSC approval do you? 

 

Oh just noticed you scavanged the whole balance complete from the donor, its just adjusting for various positions then.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one  ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks
    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one 😞 ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks    
    • I have bought without seeing inside before and have generally been luck Michael. If its a screwback case i seem to allow some leniency on the removal of it, i dont know why because I've never struggled to remove a back with very basic equipment.   If everything is inside them, then once restored and keeping time the oris could be worth 20 -30 each, I've paid a lot more Oris date pointers in the past.
    • I use a nylon bristle from a brush to run around the coils or a thin piece of copper wire, you need .1 - .15mm.
    • I actually sent a message to him on eBay asking exactly that. They all look like snap-on casebooks so should be easy enough to get the photos.
×
×
  • Create New...