Jump to content

Omega 601 vs 610 Mainsping


Khan

Recommended Posts

Hi

Is there a difference in the mainspring between cal. 601 and 610 Omega movement?

Cousinsuk.com refers to "1280" mainsping for both for the original part but different sizes for a non-original. 

Furthermore, Bidfun show difference in movement dimensions. 

I´m asking because I get a low amplitude and visually limited oscillation when inserting a 610 mainspring in a 601 during service,

Kind regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, so according to the table

Omega 601: H=1.05 T=0.12 L=360 D=9.5
Omega 610: H=1.10 T=0.11 L=340 D=10.0

Doesn´t it equalize by dimensions or does it make wrong impact to use 610 mainspring on a 610 movement? The balance spring doesn´t bounce enough. 

Edited by Khan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to the tech sheets and looking at for the 601 and 610 Omega's recommending the same mainspring. According to the website below for each of the watches their recommending the same mainspring. According to the mainspring catalog were snipped out the watch mainsprings there is a slight difference the same difference and you have

Seeing as how Omega is recommending the same spring for both of them in looking at your dimensions I can't see that the mainspring  would make that much difference there so close in size.

So I'm assuming you a low amplitude before servicing is still have a low amplitude? Then visit change if it's in a different position like dial-up and dial down?

 

 

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME_601

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME_610

 

 

Omega 601 510 ms.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just checked the amplitude on the timegrapher:

Dial down: 281 

Dial up: 124

Very embarrassing results. But the balance runs freely when pallet fork uninstalled and the friction spring for the centre pivot doesn't look to make friction. And it feels like sufficient power in the pallet fork when turning it right and left without balance installed and fully wound. 🥴

Screenshot_20220320-193426.png

Screenshot_20220320-193430.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I have enhanced your photo is best I can you really need to change the angle or change the contrast your machine because it's really hard to see what we need to see.

Is not the change much but your lift angles 49° by the way

1 hour ago, Khan said:

Dial down: 281 

Dial up: 124

Very embarrassing results. But the balance runs freely when pallet fork uninstalled and the friction spring for the centre pivot doesn't look to make friction. And it feels like sufficient power in the pallet fork when turning it right and left without balance installed and fully wound.

Dial-up and dial down should always be almost identical then it's always nice to have a least one crown position like crown down.

Just take the sweep second pinion out. It's not needed for the watch to run they will deal with the friction spring later.

Notice in the enhanced picture we can see the graphical display notice we don't see lines we see random dots? There might be a little bit of a pattern there but not very much. The timing machine relies on a good clean signal to give us proper numbers if we see random dots on the graphical display it tells us you're having a problem.. That means the numbers are basically invalid.

I would look really carefully at your hairspring. That's because this isn't really an amplitude issue despite with the timing machine says this is an issue of the escapement is not producing a nice ticking sound. the hairspring would be the most likely cause not entirely the only cause but the most likely cause.

 

 

graphical display versus numbers don't look right Omega 601 610.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

 

I have enhanced your photo is best I can you really need to change the angle or change the contrast your machine because it's really hard to see what we need to see.

Is not the change much but your lift angles 49° by the way

Dial-up and dial down should always be almost identical then it's always nice to have a least one crown position like crown down.

Just take the sweep second pinion out. It's not needed for the watch to run they will deal with the friction spring later.

Notice in the enhanced picture we can see the graphical display notice we don't see lines we see random dots? There might be a little bit of a pattern there but not very much. The timing machine relies on a good clean signal to give us proper numbers if we see random dots on the graphical display it tells us you're having a problem.. That means the numbers are basically invalid.

I would look really carefully at your hairspring. That's because this isn't really an amplitude issue despite with the timing machine says this is an issue of the escapement is not producing a nice ticking sound. the hairspring would be the most likely cause not entirely the only cause but the most likely cause.

 

 

graphical display versus numbers don't look right Omega 601 610.jpg

Maybe the hairspring is sitting too low? Or the coils are too close? Because it looks sticky when bouncing. 

Screenshot_20220320-215752.png

Screenshot_20220320-215747.png

Screenshot_20220320-215744.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Casually the images look okay that doesn't mean they're okay it just means can't see from the picture anything that really jumps out is hideously bad. But we don't have the right angle to see if they hairspring is flat either.

10 hours ago, Khan said:

Because it looks sticky when bouncing. 

How did you clean the balance wheel and hairspring? And did you Demagnetized them?

Then I'm attaching some images? Did notice something peculiar which you can fix? Notice in one of the pictures that your balance wheel upside down it appears to be that the roller jewel is where it's supposed to be which is in alignment with one of the arms in the balance wheel. This works out really nice for putting the watch in beat? Then you notice the other image I assume the balance wheel wasn't moving notice how the arm is off to the side? As this is a movable stud you can just move it with the balance in the watch until the arm is over the pivot of the pallet fork and you'll be in beat or at least much closer than you are now. Seeing as how the timing machines not going to help you with that until we get the image to clean up

Then Julia picture the dial side because I want to see what the balance jewel looks like? Plus maybe a picture straight down at the balance wheel and not sure with a see anything but just because may be perhaps?

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear John 

Thanks for taking time to put thoughts on balance analysis. I noticed that there was a single piece of wool hiding right under the bridge in the smallest diameter of the hairspring. With this removed, I cleaned it again and soaked it in benzine for an hour. That made a remarkable difference in the amplitude and gradually went better by time. Then adjusted the stud to correct the best error and here are the results for now. 

Screenshot_20220323-064529.png

Screenshot_20220323-064558.png

Screenshot_20220323-064601.png

Screenshot_20220323-064606.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Khan said:

I noticed that there was a single piece of wool hiding right under the bridge in the smallest diameter of the hairspring. With this removed, I cleaned it again and soaked it in benzine for an hour.

It's amazing all the little things that can screw up the balance wheel and that will affect everything related to timing. Versus other things that people tend to get excited about like in your case the mainspring

Then out of curiosity how did you lubricate the escapement? Also did you demagnetized the watch?

Then your images are almost impossible to see The 1000 machine has the ability to changes LCD contrast. I snipped out an image from the manual. Is slightly cryptic in the that you can't just push and hold the arrow button you have to push in a whole bunch of times. Because currently it looks like you're near one of the extremes which is why it's so hard to see. You should build adjusted to get a much nicer image which also photographs really nicely

 

 

t 1000 lcd con.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip, I will look up on the LCD once home. 

You are absolutely right in the fact that the smallest odd things can effect such a sensitive part as a balance wheel. 
I de-magnetized the watch and checked it for magnetization on a compass. 
I lubricated the left stone of the pallet fork with a slight drop of Moebius 9415. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • At some stage you will have to jump in and have a go. 
    • Ah so its you thats buying up all the DD calibres 🤨.
    • Hi Richard,  I keep buying CAL.59 movements to practice on 🙂 Not started yet though, I'm gathering tools and building my confidence to start.
    • Problem solved. For some bizarre reason, the hook on the wall of this barrel is not properly centered vertically, but is oddly high on the wall, maybe 3/4 up the way up. When replacing the mainspring, this caused the outer coil to be displaced upwards as well such that it protrudes out of the barrel and caused the barrel lid to not sit quite flush to the barrel. Since this is a motor barrel, the lid is actually the first wheel and inner coil tube/hook all in one piece, with no “snap down” action that would have made the problem more immediately obvious. Maybe with an older mainspring the spring’s end hole was enlarged such that this wasn’t an issue, but hard to say how it ever worked otherwise. Replacing the barrel with one from a different model 1900 where the hook was properly vertically centered allowed the lid to sit flush without mainspring interference and the friction problem went away. The bridge was far too thick to be bent (and isn’t), for those of you thinking that was the problem. Placing the removable arbor in the watch without the rest of the barrel proved that the proper end shake was actually there as long as the overall height of the assembled barrel was correct.
    • You are so true on a lot of what you have said. The main reason for changing the mainspring even if the old one is in good order is because it will take out your thinking that the mainspring is contributing to poor power output or fluctuations in amplitude. If a new spring is fitted that box can be crossed off as a potential source of a problem. Most customers are happy to pay the extra £20 for a new mainspring if they are already parting with a couple of hundred pounds for a service. A new spring is an investment for good running for the future.
×
×
  • Create New...