Jump to content

Anybody know what language these service marks are?


Recommended Posts

Sorry if this is a stupid question but I’m American and I’ve tried googling this but I can’t figure it out. I just bought a south bend pocket watch and this is the case with strange markings on it. i know it has to be numerals of some kind where somebody’s serviced it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks159D6CD9-8E11-49C9-B66E-94D7B5144AA0.thumb.png.27d70736625455e3016d4d35de5e0566.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw a code the other day. Was able to suss out the shop. Contacted the owner, to whom I recently got acquainted,  and he told me the history of the watch. The code, in this case, was just a number recorded in their database. Blindingly simple for modern times

Edited by LittleWatchShop
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the exception of something that the American watch and clockmakers Institute once did of assigning numbers to its members everything else is unique to whoever did it. So one time AWCI assigned a number so if I remember right it's a number which corresponds to the state the Delta symbol which is kind of a pyramid shape and the your unique number. That's because they were getting requests from police trying to track down the owner or wherever watch her anything and they had the same problem we did. But otherwise everything is a code number.

The code could range from actually telling whoever what exactly they did. Or other times its references to their book like basically a page number go to page whatever and that's where it will tell about the watch. Occasionally might be lucky the watch was serviced a whole bunch of times and then you can figure out that may be those are date codes in addition to service stuff. But anything beyond that you're just darned lucky or really clever at figuring out how to read a short cipher that's unbreakable

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It is called a Garnish 
    • Yes, Mine has a support for the blade that can be safely hit like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-62841-Tradesman-Knife/dp/B0044D9MC6/ref=sr_1_37?crid=3HWJF1HL4J8D7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.X58oai8WcFho_-XqfR-lLQbU8lQKhf1vtFKAWbXR4EAhqVWR_eMy5h1DhaCULvkpA6XT0GaNFLHt_kJ0kPrhXFo0nYd8yJ4JgruoXDG9XjViAQOyAiBUkOhC9W9qQfGr0SMKpxIUrGOBkTjtTPTuM9IOTnb-dEAzbcZVvniVcEuMFGK9SITyDO6ryUU8ERkHt8f2Vy9Ks0QFO06KSJz65C2p7S3o2lOaUoO9kw61KyNtaaYYwdZzyuM2uRywODaigUn0u8RHMPR0dOa3WSrq8vE1iV5Et_561SFfvkhSGTQ.9QrdWVoCJpLVkrflNS1sxaY56ys4iiJspEFpUgLIRdg&dib_tag=se&keywords=stanley+knife&qid=1716289527&sprefix=stanley+knife%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-37 I use a brass hammer. You could use a very light pin hammer. A watchmaker's hammer would be a bit too light to use. I'm not sure of the weight, but looking at Cousins, it looks like a 60 or 84g brass hammer. I would go with the 84g one. A lot of the process is about feel, so you don't damage the case or bezel. Don't twist the tool! You may think it would make it easier and quicker, but that's when the damage starts to happen and be especially careful around the lugs. Once you have done a couple, you'll get a feel of it. Some bezels feel like they're not coming off and you start to doubt what you are doing. The trick is to be deliberate in your actions, rather than tentative. If you perform this task with the total belief that the bezel is coming off, that is exactly what will happen. First, be totally sure that the bezel comes off in the way you expect.   Rub the blade against a piece of 400 grit wet and dry until blunt
    • I do like the idea of clocks , you get so much more for your money than you do when buying a watch.
    • No but I have taken it out of its case to make sure all is well. 
    • I read recently that there are almost 600 different patterns of overcoil.
×
×
  • Create New...