Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all, i am starting on my first French clock there seems to be a lot of information which i don't understand on the movement and scratched onto the plates the numbers on the movement and pendulum match but the case is wooden and the front looks right but the door and inside the case dosen't considering the date of the clock if i am right is early 1900 

Also the mainspring looks like its been shortened if so will it need replacing any information on the clock would be great thanks

IMG_20220131_121911298_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220131_122006312.jpg

IMG_20220131_132315891_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220131_122018858.jpg

IMG_20220131_131211437_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220131_132815855.jpg

IMG_20220201_075012600 (2022-02-01T07_55_12.699).jpg

IMG_20220201_130629187.jpg

IMG_20220201_131009219.jpg

IMG_20220201_132443297_HDR.jpg

Posted

 Hi  A.D.Mougin Paris with brocot escapement adjustment , The case ilooks as if its a marriage between clock and case. both of around the same time .    You usually find these movements in marble or slate clock cases and the straps with the screws in hold the front part of the clock  Bezel etc to the rear door assembly  They are nice movements but the only drawback is the pivots are glass hard and will not tolerate rough treat ment (too easy to break)  Mainspring looks as though the hole has torn at some point and been re filed. There is quite considerable force in the spring so consider changing it.

Laverstoke Mill  Hampshire  was a paper Mill  from the 1700;s owned bythe Portal family  now a dislittery producung Portal Gin. The clock probably datea mid 19th cent.  service date of 1903? on the door.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Its not a marriage. This is how these types of french clock movements were fixed in wooden cases. I have seen hundreds of them. They were painted black to make people think it was black marble or slate. Every thing fits all the numbers are the same bezel, pendulum and movement. It will be 8 day duration, replace that spring with a new one. The style of the hands are called Moon. The info on the dial is the name of the seller and the address. It still has its original suspension spring. 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi oldhippy thanks for that yes i am going to replace the spring, unfortunately though the suspension spring i think will have to be change as it has kinks in it but i will keep it with the clock.

Posted

I have serviced/ repaired many of these movements. As already stated the pivots are very hard but can be burnished/ polished. Normally if it has not been serviced some bushing will need replacing. As OH has said change the mainspring.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
46 minutes ago, Willow said:

Hi oldhippy thanks for that yes i am going to replace the spring, unfortunately though the suspension spring i think will have to be change as it has kinks in it but i will keep it with the clock.

That is good practice. 

What I forgot to say one of the reasons why they are painted black is the marble ones were far more expensive. I didn't need to mention the steel because that has already been pointed out to you. Do not clean it in an ultrasonic tank, clean by hand.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
36 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

That is good practice. 

What I forgot to say one of the reasons why they are painted black is the marble ones were far more expensive. I didn't need to mention the steel because that has already been pointed out to you. Do not clean it in an ultrasonic tank, clean by hand.  

Regarding cleaning buy hand on these clocks can you use isopropanaol  instead of paraffin after washing in water.

Posted

Hi It will be an expensive clean using isopropanol, Paraffin is ok, I use turpentine /white spirit with a drop of oil in it to clean and degrease  then washed water and detergent rinsed and dried  brushed with chalk for a polish,  I have done the odd one in the machine using Priory polishes Ammoniated cleaner with good results and no problems on the plates.  drying is the key 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

This is how I used to restore these movements.

All brass parts polish with brasso with a soft brush and a clean cloth. Wash out in petrol and dry in sawdust then French chalk using a brush that is just used for the job, this prevents the brass from tarnishing quickly. All steel screws to be cleaned up by means of files mostly needle files, then polished by different emery sticks grit sizes in the end they will have a good shine, this I would do in my lathe. All the screws that had originally been blued would be blued again. I used a bend penny held in a small vice, when the right colour is achieved screws are then put in clean oil I used 3 in 1 this leaves a nice sheen. I would then clean them in an old watch cleaning fluid using an old cleaning machine that I had.  You are going to need a clock mainspring winder for the springs, these are also cleaned in petrol I used pipe cleaners near the end where the arbors go as cloth would not fit between coils. Springs are to be lightly oiled with Windels clock oil. Winding arbors to be de burred and polished in the same way as screws don’t forget the end of the arbor that will be seen at the front of the dial nothing like seeing a highly polished square, also the tip of the centre wheel  and the square of the brocot fine regulator that can be seen above the 12. All pivots cleaned polished and burnished. It has already been said how brittle the steel is so be very careful. Any re bushing is also undertaken and if you are very skilled when done you shouldn’t be able to see the repaired hole.  Don’t forget the pendulum brass parts these are also polished and also the screw is also tidied up but not blued. If the collet is steel polish that as well.

I think I have covered it all. Windels clock oil is used for all the oiling not just the springs.

I forgot to mention don't forget to peg out every hole using peg wood until the holes are showing no dirty marks on the wood. 

  • Thanks 2
Posted

I have a mainspring winder and windels oil what i don't have is a lathe to make bushings i can use my Dremel for polishing thanks for your advice oldhippy.

Watchweasol what ratio of white spirit and oil do you use and what type of oil I don't use ammoniated cleaner anymore thank also for sharing how you clean your clocks. Appreciate the time you both have taken the time sorry clockboy and you 

Posted

Hi  In the old days we used telus 33 a Hydraulic oil, but these days a synthetic 10/40 is ok,   egg cup to 1/2 pt.  still using the old scale.  But remenber to wash with hot soapy water and dry well.  Just take care they clean up real well, although I dont use brasso liquid I prefer the non abrasive silver polish.

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

finally after being divert on another clock, i am about to order a mainspring for this French clock the problem i am getting is  the same type of mainspring the one i have took out has a blueish colour to it, the H 19.45x Th 0.23x L 102.00 Barrel 30.00

Cousins do 2, one H 19 x Th 0.25 x L 1000 x Barrel 0.25 and the other

                              H 19 x Th 0.25 x L 1300 x Barrel 0.28

and a Company called AGT H x 20 Th x 25 Dia 30.00

Not which is the best option can anyone help please, thanks

Posted

I would go for this one. All new springs come without that blue look it is just the way they are made these days.

     H 19 x Th 0.25 x L 1300 x Barrel 0.28

  • Like 2
Posted
47 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

I would go for this one. All new springs come without that blue look it is just the way they are made these days.

     H 19 x Th 0.25 x L 1300 x Barrel 0.28

thanks oldhippy got a couple of things to order so will do that now 

Posted

Hi all hope you are all ok working on this French clock, and the pallets don't seem right the one on the left seems to have turned any idea how i can get the pallets in the right position thanks

IMG_20220305_112801741_BURST000_COVER.jpg

Posted

Before you start to alter the pallet stones are you sure the angles are wrong for entry and escape? I would like to see the other side to see if they are just pushed in or set by other means. The pallet on the right that I'm looking at in the photo isn't clean around the brass it looks to me like shellac. If they are pushed in it is just a matter of twisting it for the correct setting. Don't forget to check the escape wheel teeth as well you don't want any wear or burr on the tips as this will cause problems.  

Posted

Hi oldhippy i am having second thought's someone else said there right but when i look in the book they seem to be the same way so now i don't know see photo

IMG_20220305_123432487.jpg

IMG_20220305_123524362.jpg

Posted

You can't just go a book and the diagrams it shows. Just what is happening doesn't it escape at all, is it stopping in the same place if so that tells me it could be a tooth. Any wear to the holes and pivots. Changing the angles of the pallets is a last resort. 

Posted

Still having trouble getting pallets to fit with the escape wheel if i get the pivot in one of the pallet slips through the wheel, if i get the pallets right the pivot will not go in, can not see anything bent, twisted out of shape its so frustrating never had this problem before with something so straight forward might try stripping it down and just try with the escape wheel on it's own and see if the pallets fit then 🙄 have to do it when i get back in a few days from my daughters.

Posted

Is this one of those movements with a  visible escapement? If so you need to make sure the bridge that holds the escape wheel is the correct way round and the screws are also correct. I have know in the past if you put things back such as the screws the wrong way round this can cause problems. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If he was much younger and some sort of sports player it wouldn't be a problem. They would be in there and doing surgery and he'd be back on the field in no time. Unfortunately when you get older little things are bad and big things can be really bad so not good at all.
    • Where I work everything incoming watches whatever detailed descriptions are taken entered into a computer program and photograph of each item. Then ideally although it depends on who's doing the paperwork detailed descriptions can be quite good other times there lacking. Like I really like it with pocket watches if they would record the serial number it avoids confusion later on. Then when watch repairs are completed that is also entered in. It's one of the amusements I learned when I was in school instructor had a shop and commented about the important aspect of keeping detailed records of repairs. Because oftentimes a customer who got a new crystal will come back later on when the watch doesn't work and expect you to fix the entire watch for free. Then you can remind them that they just got a crystal. Strangely enough that keeps coming up or occasionally comes up where I work now. One of the problems of using the service marks on the case is that in the case of pocket watches oftentimes that's not the original case. Then case marks? What I was doing warranty work for a company I used to describe a code number in the back of the case and it would tell me the next time I see the watch that basically what I did I made no attempt at keeping track of customers because we had literally thousands of them I think they sold 30,000 of these watches and they would come back by the hundreds because they had a lifetime warranty. Yes that's a story all of itself but I would put a code number that would reference what was done to the watch the last time and think I had a date in there somehow so it did tell a story if you knew the code. Another shop I once worked out the number would reference the page in the book. So other than knowing we had been in there you would have no idea what happened because you have to go look at the page in the book to see what happened. Then the problem of how you examine a watch you should examine the watch in detail every single time to avoid complications. Although on vintage watches and this is a of amusement I have at work when people ask something and I say of the watches done when it leaves. This is because on vintage oftentimes problems won't show up until the watches much farther into the repair like it's now running and you discover things that you can't discover before because it wasn't running to discover them that also become sometimes difficult to have exact rigid prices are estimates of repairs or in the case of a pocket watch you may not find out if a casing problem to later on when you case it up in the watches running. I was just thinking for all those people that would like to leave a mark maybe you should learn to do what some of the past watchmakers did? Leave a mark but leave it in such a way that no one will ever find it? Typically not done for repair purposes but done for other reasons like identifying it's legit. I have a friend with a Gruen watch and one of the Roman numbers the bottom line that just looks like a line under extreme magnification actually says Gruen watch company or something equivalent. So here's a link showing how to mark your watch without being seen although that's not the actual title. So if you can learn micro engraving you can engrave the watch someplace probably just about any place you just have to remember where you put it. https://cnaluxury.channelnewsasia.com/obsessions/how-to-prove-if-watches-are-authentic-secret-signatures-182516  
    • I have acquired a Citizen Leopard 36000 watch. My reason for purchasing it was my desire to own a timepiece with a 36,000 BPH movement, and the price was reasonable. Another motivating factor was gaining hands-on experience with the mechanism. The watch is in good condition, but I intend to fully disassemble it for maintenance. First and foremost, if anyone has prior experience with this particular model, I would greatly appreciate their insights. I do not have access to Citizen’s specialized lubricants and will need to use the ones available to me, such as 9010, 8000, and 8300 grease. Additionally, I do not possess the appropriate oil for the pallet jewels and will only be able to clean them.
    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
×
×
  • Create New...