Jump to content

Omega 30T2 1240


Kepas

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I would appreciate some help with this third wheel from an Omega 30T2. I bought a non-working watch and the only part damage was the wheel on the left, terrible shape with a missing teeth. I bought a replacement from ebay, and although similar there are small differences in the central pinion that doesn´t allow the central wheel to move freely.

Any help on how to fix this or to buy the correct one it will be greatly appreciated.

Omega 260 1240 v2.jpg

OMega 260 1240.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Kepas said:

although similar there are small differences in the central pinion that doesn´t allow the central wheel to move freely.

The original pinion can be carried to the new wheel using a staking set. That is a somewhat delicate operation, you need to very that the wheel is square to the axis of the pinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it the height or pivot that is different. As JDM says a delicate operation indeed. If it’s just the pivot that is tight then changing the jewel to fit the pinion is an option, if you have a lathe or a Jacot Pivoting Tool reduce the pivot to fit. If it is the height then as JDM says fit the original pivot to the new wheel or can the jewel be moved this would have to be done with a jeweling tool. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, praezis said:

Old pinion has 8 leaves, new one has 9! How can that work? 🙄

Before you do anything: count the teeth number of both wheels and compare! Diameter, too.

Frank

Good spot Frank. The only option is to fit the original pinion to the new wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, Thanks to all for the comments and advice.

4 hours ago, praezis said:

Old pinion has 8 leaves, new one has 9! How can that work? 🙄

Before you do anything: count the teeth number of both wheels and compare! Diameter, too.

Frank

Good point Frank, from now on, I´ll put more attention to that. I noted that the pinions teeth were thinner and a little bit longer, but it didn’t occur to me to count the teeth. I guess I’m just a swapper… : )

7 hours ago, clockboy said:

Is it the height or pivot that is different. As JDM says a delicate operation indeed. If it’s just the pivot that is tight then changing the jewel to fit the pinion is an option, if you have a lathe or a Jacot Pivoting Tool reduce the pivot to fit. If it is the height then as JDM says fit the original pivot to the new wheel or can the jewel be moved this would have to be done with a jeweling tool. 

I think the pivots are ok, since the train of wheel spins fine down the third wheel, with the second and escape wheels on the bridge.

 

7 hours ago, jdm said:

The original pinion can be carried to the new wheel using a staking set. That is a somewhat delicate operation, you need to very that the wheel is square to the axis of the pinion.

I guess I must go that route. I do have some stacking tools but only a few punches, so any advice on how to proceed from here it will be greatly appreciated. I haven´t seen any video on YT on this, in case someone could post one.

Thanks for all the advice.....

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/21/2022 at 11:18 PM, rodabod said:

The tooth modulus is different. 
 

Are you sure this isn’t from a later 26x or 28x caliber? 

No idea... It was sold to me as a 30T2 wheels, but my experience with classic Omegas movements is very limited. I hope someone could help on this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This is not rare at all, the dial code and case code don't usually match.
    • Good question!! Anyone know of a substitute movement??!! 🤔🙏
    • Interesting issue that I just noticed: this Seiko 5actus Watch from 1977 has a calibre listing on the dial of 7019-8030R but on the case back it says 7019-8010!! Like a mis-printed coin, is this watch therefore worth a lot of money for its rarity?? 🤪😲🤔🤪
    • I wish that was the case. The Aegler movements used in the early days by Wilsdorf & Davis (for brands like Rolex and Rolco) came in several sizes and without designated calibre numbers that survive.  They become a bit easier to identify during the 1920s. Below is an Aegler-Rebberg, 25.74mm in diameter. It’s from a woman’s Rolex wristwatch. Stamped Rebberg and 500 on the dial plate (but it isn’t a Rebberg 500, it’s the wrong size).  I’d be interested if anyone can identify the movement.  It is based off the Aegler Nr.1, circa 1903, but they based many many calibres of different sizes on it. The closest I have to a positive ID is the  ‘Rolex Nr.50’ circa 1917, but no dial side images or movement sizes are available in the references. There are identical looking movements in many sizes.  The 25.74mm of this movement is a particularly strange size for the era, it equates to 11.41 lignes.      Best Regards, Mark
    • It looks like this movement comes with a number of different shock settings. Emmywatch shows that it comes in versions with no shock settings, 'Incabloc', 'shock resist', and 'Supershock'. Perhaps the different settings position the impulse jewel/roller table in a non-ideal position relative to the pallet fork/guard pin. Are you able to check under high magnification if the pallet fork and roller table are able to operate without any interference? Just for fun I took a look and I have one FHF 70 in my collection, a West End Secundus with a non-shock protected FHF70. I had a note with the watch that said, "Movement is stamped 'FHF 70', but the FHF70 looks to have sub-seconds instead of center seconds movement (??)" but that a google search turned up both types for this movement. EDIT: I just took a look in my parts drawer and I have a few of these movements, both in center seconds and sweep seconds, but they all are non-shock protected.  
×
×
  • Create New...