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Mr. De Carle’s book on clock repair

Michael1962

By Michael1962
in All Things Clocks

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Michael1962 Distinguished Member

Michael1962

Posted
Posted

Quick question for the brains trust. 
How does one differentiate between the locking wheel, gathering pallet wheel, strike intermediate wheel and the third wheel for example?

 In figure 25, the diagram seems to show them as all very similar?

 Am i missing something or is it just experience that I am missing?

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi Michael  There are two books from Donald De Carle, Practical clock repairing and watch and clock repairing,  So I take it you have the clock repairing one. 

the locking wheel has a pin on the edge of the wheel to lock  and release  the long lever.

The strike warning wheel is similar with a pin to lock and release the strike

The third wheel has no pin

Because the locking wheels look very similar in construction it is important when dismantling clocks to keep all the strike parts together, same with the going side and the chime side and label each container so as to avoid confusion on re assembly

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Michael1962 Distinguished Member

Michael1962

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Correct. I just have Practical Clock Repairing for now. Have started the book several times. Other things just keep getting in the way.

I have focussed again on just doing clocks for now. So I thank the guys that answered my other topic. The pocket watch can wait until I get better at all of this. I'm still chuffed that I have it. I have looked up the prices of sterling silver fob chains for it. It looks like I will spend more on a chain that what the watch cost.

Maybe I'll just use the chromed one that came with my pocket watch from my wife for now.

I know what I need for the clocks that I have and I probably have enough tools at this point to be able to get by. I will get myself some cleaning chemicals and then work out a plan of attack from there. If anyone knows of a good guide to make my own burnisher, that would be appreciated.

A mate up the road has a laser cutter, so I am going to give him the plans for the Joe Collins winder and he willl cut all the pieces for me.

Happy that I have got my head back in the game.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Looks like watchweasol has answered your question. It would help you if you watched a few videos on Youtube to understand which each part plays in the chiming and striking. It would also have been better if the diagram had the parts in order instead of all over the place. 

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watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

To work on clocks you will need decent screwdrivers, decent pliers and tweezers. I also have some small  BA/Metric spanners  a small adjustable and a few others bits gathered over the years such as brushes etc . Initially for cleaning use some hi grade petroleum for primary cleaning dirty clocks, I use some of the PRIORY polishes clock cleaner concentrate dilutes to 7:1 do a 500ml bottle goes a long way preferably use distilled water. Drying is the key.  Peg wood for the pivot holes and some Windle's clock  oil. With all the above you will manage to clean most clocks.  Bushing plates and re pivoting is a long way in the future but read the books watch the videos, when I started with clocks there was only books and I STILL read them. You may want a volt meter for the odd electric job and battery testing but take small steps don't dive in to three train chiming clocks untill you understand the single train and striking clocks (two trains)   remember small steps, and don't over complicate things it just fogs the mind        all the best

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RogerH WRT Addict

RogerH

Posted
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I also find taking pictures helps. Especially of the strike wheel and associated levers and the general position of things prior to disassemble. it's always good to have a picture to go back to.

  • 2 weeks later...
transporter Super WRT Addict

transporter

Posted
Posted

I’m currently studying the DLC and managed to find the same Bentima movement as used in the lessons, trouble is, with a mentor by my side once a week that timepiece has been stripped, bushed, pivots polished and back together as habe numerous customers clocks mostly French strike Mantel clocks and good Haller movements etc. 

In the DLC I think you finish the Bentima movement in lesson 10 and never go near strike or chimes. So at the moment my studies stopped at lesson 5 as practical work took over whoops.

So stay with simple timepieces until you are happy to move onto strike movements , I’ve learnt a lot from my mentor that books don’t explain very well, so use us here on the forum to aid you as you progress.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Books can only help you so much. There's nothing like getting your hands dirty, books will not cover all obstacles you might have to confront only the popular ones.  Start with a time piece then a strike then chime, then do the same only this time French I don't expect you to have chiming French movements. Then French carriage clocks Timepiece, strike then if possible  French Grand Sonnerie. Longcase clocks start with an 8 Day strike then the 30 hour ones as these are much more likely to have far more wear to them. When you are prolific in that lot you should be able to tackle any clock that comes your way. I have left out those horrid battery and electric movements. I have covered just the basic movements.  

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

There is no substitute for practical experience. Books as OH says only can teach you so much. As you continue to learn the books will be your guide.  I personaly embrace all clocks quartz /electric and have been known to dismantle a quartz module and repair it not because of cost but to keep its originality.

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