Jump to content

Correct Replacement Batteries (NSC WM09N711)


Recommended Posts

Hello All,

Wondering if anyone has any experience with this particular watch.  It's a National Semiconductor LED watch, model WM09N711, from the mid 1970's.  I have no idea if it works.  The pusher button is missing but can be replaced- but before I get to that, I would like to confirm the LED module still works.  The only problem?  I have no idea what type of batteries to put inside of it!  The battery specification isn't inscribed on the caseback nor the LED module.  I've done a little research so far and have struck out trying to confirm what batteries go into this fine piece.  If anyone happens to know it would be a great help.  Thanks in advance for all responses and Happy Holidays.  🙂

IMG_0623.thumb.jpeg.0dafb8f2bedc7caae97a8ec13d2ef90b.jpegIMG_0625.thumb.jpeg.6dc58bdc72fbea8ec6a6dbcdc540e603.jpegIMG_0626.thumb.jpeg.7ff03880ec5577bb33ebe6d70b9087da.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, RyMoeller said:

 I have no idea what type of batteries to put inside of it!  The battery specification isn't inscribed on the caseback nor the LED module.

Measure the slots and reference from the attached table. I believe that either alkaline 1.5V or silver oxide 1.55 V will not make a difference. To see if it works fit any battery you may have which makes contact.

1_Battery Cross Reference Guide.pdf

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, RyMoeller said:

Hello All,

Wondering if anyone has any experience with this particular watch.  It's a National Semiconductor LED watch, model WM09N711, from the mid 1970's.  I have no idea if it works.  The pusher button is missing but can be replaced- but before I get to that, I would like to confirm the LED module still works.  The only problem?  I have no idea what type of batteries to put inside of it!  The battery specification isn't inscribed on the caseback nor the LED module.  I've done a little research so far and have struck out trying to confirm what batteries go into this fine piece.  If anyone happens to know it would be a great help.  Thanks in advance for all responses and Happy Holidays.  🙂

IMG_0623.thumb.jpeg.0dafb8f2bedc7caae97a8ec13d2ef90b.jpegIMG_0625.thumb.jpeg.6dc58bdc72fbea8ec6a6dbcdc540e603.jpegIMG_0626.thumb.jpeg.7ff03880ec5577bb33ebe6d70b9087da.jpeg

Check out the 4th photo in this listing. I think you will get all the info you might need from this..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124972474298?hash=item1d18f09fba:g:4OgAAOSw~eNhdveu

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, thanks for all the great responses!  I used the charts provided and came to the conclusion the 386 is probably the correct battery (which is what I was leaning towards before I asked the question but my methods were based on more ignorant assumptions) The photos @Randy55 linked provides the proof.  Can't wait too see if I can get this thing to light up!

Thanks again for the help and the documentation- it will certainly come in handy in the future as well! 👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've been contemplating getting one of these for some time now, after working on a few spring loaded centre seconds pinion movements. It's not an absolutely necessary tool to have, hence the procrastination.  Then it hit me, all I need is a flat base with a screw in it. So I scrounged around for something suitable and ended up with this. This is some rubber thingy that is  supposed to stop furniture with casters from moving around. In fact, any flat material with sufficient thickness to hold the screw in the centre would do.  
    • I think your axes are mislabelled here. They need switching around. 
    • @clockboy Thank you for the response.
    • @Knebo Thank you for the detailed response and reminding me. I went back and introduced myself. That's really good information, for 15xx it should be similar. Will dig deeper into that.   Yes I mean that. Attaching some pictures. New to shooting through a loupe so pardon the quality. I don't quite get the strength point, could you elaborate? Seeing the punch used for the job, it should limit the highest point of the metal being pushed, Maybe a worn out punch?       I haven't checked the axle will do that, but thee watchmaker told me that the 9'o clock side has been over-polished and the caseback is sinking on that side which is causing the issue. Armed with this knowledge, I will investigate both. The Picture would certainly suggest that plus the Intense pitting (wrist perfuming habit of my family) might be contributing to how the caseback fits.      Thank you again, I have made a checklist and will be investigating all the points you mentioned.   Rolex told me that they will replace the dial and bracelet so I didn't go that route. Its an independent watchmaker, and a very well reputed one in online and offline collector circles. I have seen his work and got work done from him before, this is the first time something like this is coming up. Maybe he is getting lazy in sourcing good parts. lol.
    • 😞 I hate the heat, i work outside in winter in a t shirt . 
×
×
  • Create New...