Jump to content

Prototypes


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

Your work does you credit.  I like the blue one, it has that timeless appeal and I think will always be in fashion like the black. Keep up the great work.

Thank you. That’s all the encouragement I needed. I’ll nickname it the Weasol. 
The OROLUX Weasol is done!

FAD4633A-E08F-4E61-8E5E-26BFDEB7D5FA.jpeg

AF60E8DB-C788-4346-9520-CC38A351D0CC.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha  Ha   I like that,  how about "The Weasol Watch Co"   No thats going a bit too far.   But I like the simplicity and un fussy style it is to me classic.  When you look at it it tells you the time, its prime function without complication.      like I said  Clsaaic.             cheers

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Had a bit of a play this afternoon with trying to achieve a spun dial finish (rather dangerously I fear). It inspired me to adapt an old design, and try something new. Comments and criticism are gratefully accepted as usual. 
Once again these are ‘fast and dirty’ proof of concept creations. 
 

12381E18-671A-4A73-B122-221911300C6B.jpeg

3742F2E8-C8BF-49B2-8971-B69E4C1DA047.jpeg

FA3D5C6F-5C7C-4E3B-BA3B-2416CFC8755B.jpeg

EA769556-573C-4B8C-977B-BF1B01A0AF82.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  They may be down and dirty proofs but they are still quality, I have seen watches sold with worse finishes than those for sure. I would like to see your finished article if those are proofs.  Classic, clean and simple.

Thank you once again for the kind words watchweasol. I’m currently collecting supplies to start a finished watch. May need to spend some time improving my enamelling technique first tho! 
As soon as I finish something, you guys will be the first to know. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Orolux ‘Mil-spec’ (working title, lol) has arrived! I can’t believe how excited I am! I know it’s very similar to every other military inspired watch out there, but this one is mine (guess the military film reference). And I’m pretty sure most modern mass produced military watches don’t have an enamel dial. 
 

D10C09CB-CAF3-4121-8ECD-610E0B8B553D.jpeg

DD61704F-666F-4433-89ED-B96C6B7580C4.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi   they are looking good  The hands  would suit either  lume or not My preference  no lume,  I think the case suits the style and a flat crystal to keep it slim.  The only issue I would have is with the second hand whilst very cleverly done I think a plain one would be better as the current one takes the eye away from the actual watch. Again my preference alone, others will have a different opinion I am sure.  Bur a cracking job well done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I very much appreciate your opinion watchweasol, and believe I completely agree with you. With a clear head brought about by a new day it’s easier to be objective. I’ve already ordered a flat crystal as well as one with a slight dome to try out. I think this will make the watch much more wearable. After measuring the height of the hand stack I reckon I could fit a flat crystal as well as removing 1.5mm from the bezel height. I think this will transform the watch. As much as it pains me to say it I agree with you regarding the seconds hand too. It just doesn’t suit the watch. 
I’ve actually found a case for sale in Japan that fits a 6498 and is only 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick. It’s expensive but looks top quality. I’m very tempted to give it a try. As I get older 44mm feels just too large! 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just so watchweasol doesn’t think I’ve forgotten about him, here are some progress photos. Bezel has been slightly reshaped, the case has been refinished, the seconds hand has been changed, and it has a new flat glass. Total watch thickness now down to 11.5mm. Much better. 

8AA6BE7B-3461-461E-A16D-B4916F5FEEA2.jpeg

6424070A-BC92-419A-82A9-A94B5191854C.jpeg

026FDD1C-EC8A-4A82-B100-7607D4397F1A.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...