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Attached is the initial timegrapher reading before working on the movement. The hairspring does move freely when I adjust the regulator. I think I'll try opening up the curb pin to give the hairspring more space. I know that's crazy tricky to do without wrecking the pin (I've tried on other movements in the past) so if anyone has a suggestion on how to do it, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
I think you are making the right decision here, it is far too valuable and not worth the risk for improving its performance by just a few seconds, which might not even be that easy to achieve and it could go very wrong. So just 2 things to add to convince you to leave it well alone 🙂 1. If the watch is brand new and you take the back off, you can definitely kiss your guarantee goodbye and 2. 10 seconds incorrect rate on a timegrapher ( we didn't discuss the amplitude, wind or positional variations ) doesn't mean 10 seconds incorrect rate on your wrist and on your bedside table, it could very well be more accurate than that. -
By LazyTimegrapher · Posted
I saw mention of the super glue and bolt method on various forums. I wondered if there’d be any problem with that given the watch is titanium. Will the glue or the acetone stain the metal? Titanium is supposed to be resistant to corrosion, but sometimes certain metals react with chemicals unexpectedly. If it doesn’t stain or scratch the watch and can be completely removed with acetone, the bolt and glue method seems like a clever last resort approach. However, I don’t think I’m ready to use that method on this watch. The watch is new, and it was a gift, and it wasn't cheap. Also, +10 spd really isn’t that big of a deal. I can just correct it once a week to keep it within a minute of the correct time. If I had a manual wind watch I’d have to wind it more often than every week, so I can think of it that way. I think neverenoughwatches is right that this is the wrong watch to use to start learning how to repair watches. I think I’ll either buy the Unitas 6498 or a clone to do the watch fix course. I may also get a $200 invicata pro diver with the SW200 movement that I believe is also in the tag heuer aquaracer to start learning watch repair. It uses the “caliber 5” which I believe is just an SW200-1 or ETA 2824-2 with a tag decorated rotor. How long would you all say it takes to develop basic competence working on mechanical watches? What level does one end up at after doing the first three watch fix courses? I mentioned in my intro post that I was emboldened to try to regulate the tag watch by my success in swapping out a broken quartz movement on a friends 15 year old fashion watch a month or so ago. It had a Ronda 762 which was available new from Esslinger for $10. I didn’t have the right tools or any experience but I was able to remove the movement, swap the dial and hands, and reassemble the watch to fix it. It appears to work fine now. The only reason I attempted it though was because they were going to throw the watch out, so the risk was really just the $10 for the new movement. The risk on this aquaracer is much higher and probably above my risk threshold. Also thanks very much for all your suggestions and help. I’ll post some more images of the watch shortly. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Thats just the tip of the iceberg, they have no idea of what is yet to come. When you start grabbing stranger's left hands to turn their wrists to see what watch they are wearing then thats when they need to start worrying. Erm not that i...ah-hem....have done that. -
By nickelsilver · Posted
Can you get a top view with power off, balance at rest? The hairspring could be off center just enough that it is touching something when running (center wheel, stud, regulator). Thing is, on older stuff in particular, if you find a balance complete there's about a 99.99% chance the hairspring of the new balance will need some adjustment to work correctly. Also, not much use getting concerned with the rate until you get the amplitude up.
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