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DanB last won the day on August 1

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  1. Following Ron's and other's advice, I went through the list. -- Hairspring coils were not touching in any position. That said, the hairspring looked a little odd when I held the balance complete horizontally at eye level. The coils at the edge of their circumference sagged more in one direction then when I flipped it over. Could be nothing, but I swapped it for another balance complete. -- Banking pins. Yes, one of the pins was not perpendicular to the movement plate so I moved it into position so that they were both parallel to each other -- Regulator pin. It looked fine throu
  2. I didn't like the traces as well and wondered what could be the cause. I did use 941 oil on the pallet stones and after the movement ran a bit I cleaned the pallet stones so hopefully there was only oil on the escape wheel teeth. I did not use epilame - that has not been part of my practice as of yet. I guess it's time to invest in it. I'll go through some of your other troubleshooting suggestions as well. Thanks!
  3. An update. I did install a less powerful new mainspring - metric strength .1 instead of .11 - and that reduced the amplitude about 20 degrees in both dial up and pendant down positions to something more reasonable. But what was more troubling was that as the watch wound down to about mid-strength, the rate dropped significantly to about -120 seconds per day. This was happening before I put in the new weaker mainspring. I swapped the balance assembly from another FEF 380 (cleaned and oiled) and that made the performance more stable. That tells me that maybe something is up with the original bal
  4. Hi all, Thanks for all of the suggestions. I decided not to close the regulator pins. On closer inspection it looked like the hairspring was sitting just right between the pins and my fear was that any fussing could cause more harm than good. In other previous timegrapher readings, I did see some strange patterns that does suggest there has been some re-banking (I didn't know what those wild readings indicated, but now I understand what they likely meant). I bought another FEF 380 that should arrive soon. It was described as running, so assuming that is the case my plan is to clean/lube/a
  5. The amplitude at 1/2 wind is still at about 300 degrees (even at 1/3 wind). I'll try tightening the regulator pins some. I've never done that before. My concern about the rate is, I adjusted it to that level of performance before, let the movement run about 12 hours while in the movement holder, and then when I checked the rate again it had shot up to about +90 secs a day. I gave it a wind and it was still that fast. So something is happening while the movement is running that impacts the rate. I'm guessing it could be because it's overpowered, but I'm not sure.
  6. Per Rodobod's suggestion, here is the performance in those positions plus pendant up. I included a dial up for reference and adjusted the rate only in that position at nearly full wind. Given the variation in rates, could it be a balance issue? Maybe something wrong with the pallet pivot jewel?
  7. Hi KO, Thanks for the reply. The movement is a straight up FEF 380, no date. So if I understand you correctly, metric strength of .11 is too high, so if I go to .10 I should be in the ballpark? I found one at O. Frei but although the metric strength was lower, the Dennison strength was higher at 11. Would that matter? Pasted below are the numbers for that mainspring.
  8. Hi all, I completed a clean/adjust/lube on an FEF 380 from an old Doxa. I installed a new mainspring bought from O. Frei and got the one specified on their movement database. Based on the extremely high amplitude and its erratic performance, I'm guessing the mainspring may be too strong for the movement. I have re-cleaned and re-lubed the balance jewels but that didn't have an impact on the amplitude. I can use some advice on which less powerful mainspring to get, and/or if I am overlooking any other possible causes. I'm thinking the width, thickness, and length of the mainspring should b
  9. Wow, a fret setting press. Then you must be (or have been) a guitar builder, yes? That requires a high level of woodworking skills, working with such small tolerances.
  10. That's an excellent suggestion. While the brass center is currently recessed enough (just), better to be safe than sorry. Thanks!
  11. Hi all, I'm glad to report that the press from Esslinger did the trick. I had several tapered dies to choose from and the 34mm die fit nicely easing the crystal right into place. Having pressure only on the perimeter of the crystal avoided any trauma. Though my experience with this press is literally less than 24 hours old, I'd say it looks pretty robust. The dies fit nicely and they sit parallel to one another when on the press. For $60 it was well worth it.
  12. I practiced on a Hamilton 661 balance assembly (has an excenter regulator like the Omega 601), took it apart, and it was a chore to get that u-bolt spring reinstalled. I got it back together, but I think the bottom of the incabloc setting suffered a bit as a result. That made me take a closer look at the Omega, and John was correct - there is a bend (two bends actually) in the bottom of the incabloc setting (similar to what I did to the Hamilton), photo attached. That could be what kept the beat regulator from moving in the first place. Rather than take that apart and potentially make matters
  13. Well, clearly I have not taken one of these apart down to the studs, so to speak. I think I'll practice with a couple balance assemblies I have lying about, then see if I have the nerve to tackle this one. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
  14. Hi John, Yes, that's the image I have as well. Very helpful. I don't think the stud holder is bent - it could just be the angle at which I took the photo. But I will look more closely at it. So that U-bolt holds the whole works together? That means everything comes apart, including the rate regulator, etc.?
  15. Here's the balance assembly with balance complete removed. I tried moving the beat regulator with the balance off but had no luck. It made me think this really wasn't intended to be moved since I applied a fair amount of force, but Omega in its 551 technical guide it says it should (different balance assemblies for each movement but same design on the underside). I'm guessing that the U-shaped spring (Omega calls it a "bolt") has to be slid out, freeing up the regulator arm. Then I could apply a tiny bit of lubricant to where the spring slides back in and test the regulator arm movement before
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