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I think I'm having a confusion here? You would apply the breaking grease to the inside of the barrel then the slip ring would go inside. Then the mainspring goes in and it catches on the hook on the slip ring. -
By ManSkirtBrew · Posted
Thank you for the once again very thorough and informative reply. I'm sure at this point it's academic, but I'm always curious to know best practices. This then implies that If I'm planning to reuse the old mainspring (which I am), I should also reinstall the slip ring. I will do that and apply braking grease to the inside of the slip ring as if it were the barrel. This makes the most sense to me. Also, that bit about the center cannon pinion is very helpful. That wasn't in the tech sheet I have (attached) dated 1970. Omega 1001(1).pdf -
I've downloaded it from the link! Looks like a really handy manual. However it doesn't help with sizing the case back seal. It does tell me it's a flat seal which is good! I think I'll go for an assorted pack from cousins and see how it goes! -
Are you suggesting in real life a timing machine That does not have our oscilloscope is going to be problematic?
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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Yes probably due to some deformation, maybe compression of the posts or burrs forming, or just plain poor original manufacturing standards. But i also do this paying close attention not to alter the intimate positioning of all the components involved with the joint . The pins should still locate with a very snug fit but not so tight that they should have to be forced down to complete the connection. A smoothing broach provides about the least amount of material change you can apply but still broach little by little. I have heard of folk working the the joint on and off a few times without the inside assembly installed.
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