Jump to content

Mainspring for pocket watch


Recommended Posts

After having experimented with some very cheap watches I thought it was time to attempt something a little nicer. Bought this silver pocket watch and took it apart. Noticed quite a few of the jewels were shattered so is likely to be beyond my skill set at the moment to restore anyway. Despite that, I decided, probably unwisely, to examine the mainspring and measure it up for a replacement so rendering it useless in the process.

The measurement I have taken are: 

  • Height: 2.6mm
  • Thickness 0.2mm
  • Length: 520mm
  • ID of barrel: 16.5mm
  • Type TR

Then I find out there is no replacement to be found in the TR book which I accessed through the Cousins website. Am I not looking properly or have I made a big mistake in assuming a replacement could be found?

Many thanks.

IMG_20210115_184200[1].jpg

IMG_20210122_153041[1].jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Extractor said:

After having experimented with some very cheap watches I thought it was time to attempt something a little nicer. Bought this silver pocket watch and took it apart. Noticed quite a few of the jewels were shattered so is likely to be beyond my skill set at the moment to restore anyway. Despite that, I decided, probably unwisely, to examine the mainspring and measure it up for a replacement so rendering it useless in the process.

The measurement I have taken are: 

  • Height: 2.6mm
  • Thickness 0.2mm
  • Length: 520mm
  • ID of barrel: 16.5mm
  • Type TR

Then I find out there is no replacement to be found in the TR book which I accessed through the Cousins website. Am I not looking properly or have I made a big mistake in assuming a replacement could be found?

Many thanks.

IMG_20210115_184200[1].jpg

IMG_20210122_153041[1].jpg

You can never be sure that the mainspring that is currently fitted is the right one. Check what size is needed for this caliber first, or measure the depth of the barrel and subtract 0.1mm to verify is 2.6mm is right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Poljot said:

You can never be sure that the mainspring that is currently fitted is the right one. Check what size is needed for this caliber first, or measure the depth of the barrel and subtract 0.1mm to verify is 2.6mm is right.

Ah, that opens up quite a few more possibilities. The barrel depth is 3.4mm so it can be a considerably wider mainspring as long as I stay within 3.2mm to build in a little safety margin. You are right that the current mainspring almost certainly was not the correct one.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Extractor said:

Ah, that opens up quite a few more possibilities. The barrel depth is 3.4mm so it can be a considerably wider mainspring as long as I stay within 3.2mm to build in a little safety margin. You are right that the current mainspring almost certainly was not the correct one.

 

 

Exactly!

However, 3.4mm seems to be very deep, are you measuring correctly? What is the movement?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

Cousins lists a GR 6801, 2.60 x 0.20 x 540 16.5, that would work perfectly. It has a normal "tongue end", which will work fine with the hook in your barrel.

If the exact spring cannot be found, in what order of importance would you rate the different parameters? I would have thought that the type, height and ID of the barrel are absolute requirements. Thickness and length less so?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Extractor said:

If the exact spring cannot be found, in what order of importance would you rate the different parameters? I would have thought that the type, height and ID of the barrel are absolute requirements. Thickness and length less so?

Strength, height, length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Extractor said:

The main reference I can find is 'The Semloh Lever' and '999' which, after some searching has led me to this:

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Cyma_999

And:

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/another-pocket-watch-incoming.4975015/

Looks quite similar. Holmes spelt backwards? What on earth....?

IMG_20210115_184237[1].jpg

Well, then here is your mainspring: 2.95 x 17.0 x 0.19mm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Extractor said:

I have measured with the depth gauge of a Mitutoyo caliper, resting the the base on two sides of the curvature, allowing the depth probe to reach the bottom, keeping it as parallel as I could manage.

Right, you are measuring to the top edge - do not forget that barrel lid takes some space also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Poljot said:

2.80 x .205 x 600 x 18 TR- End

GR7002TR

Almost, but not quite. The 18 is too big as barrel ID is only 16.5mm (17mm on the reference sheet linked above so my measurement is likely to be 0.5mm off).

2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Cousins lists a GR 6801, 2.60 x 0.20 x 540 16.5, that would work perfectly. It has a normal "tongue end", which will work fine with the hook in your barrel.

With TR springs being difficult to find, would a DBH not work better than a normal bridle? I am thinking that the hook at least has a hole to engage in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Extractor said:

Almost, but not quite. The 18 is too big as barrel ID is only 16.5mm (17mm on the reference sheet linked above so my measurement is likely to be 0.5mm off).

Do not be concerned about 16.50mm Vs 17.00mm. All it means that you will not be able to push it in, but nothing stops you from using a mainspring winder, or your fingers to install the mainspring. 2.8 is way better choice than 2.6 for your deep barrel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

The Otto Frei web site carries mainsprings as well, categorized by end-type, strength/thickness, height, and length.  If you should ever have trouble getting the spring you need at Cousins (which I think would be rare) then Otto Frei is a handy back-up.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I saw mention of the super glue and bolt method on various forums. I wondered if there’d be any problem with that given the watch is titanium. Will the glue or the acetone stain the metal? Titanium is supposed to be resistant to corrosion, but sometimes certain metals react with chemicals unexpectedly.   If it doesn’t stain or scratch the watch and can be completely removed with acetone, the bolt and glue method seems like a clever last resort approach.   However, I don’t think I’m ready to use that method on this watch. The watch is new, and it was a gift, and it wasn't cheap. Also, +10 spd really isn’t that big of a deal. I can just correct it once a week to keep it within a minute of the correct time. If I had a manual wind watch I’d have to wind it more often than every week, so I can think of it that way.   I think neverenoughwatches is right that this is the wrong watch to use to start learning how to repair watches. I think I’ll either buy the Unitas 6498 or a clone to do the watch fix course. I may also get a $200 invicata pro diver with the SW200 movement that I believe is also in the tag heuer aquaracer to start learning watch repair. It uses the “caliber 5” which I believe is just an SW200-1 or ETA 2824-2 with a tag decorated rotor.   How long would you all say it takes to develop basic competence working on mechanical watches? What level does one end up at after doing the first three watch fix courses?   I mentioned in my intro post that I was emboldened to try to regulate the tag watch by my success in swapping out a broken quartz movement on a friends 15 year old fashion watch a month or so ago. It had a Ronda 762 which was available new from Esslinger for $10. I didn’t have the right tools or any experience but I was able to remove the movement, swap the dial and hands, and reassemble the watch to fix it. It appears to work fine now. The only reason I attempted it though was because they were going to throw the watch out, so the risk was really just the $10 for the new movement. The risk on this aquaracer is much higher and probably above my risk threshold.   Also thanks very much for all your suggestions and help. I’ll post some more images of the watch shortly.
    • Thats just the tip of the iceberg, they have no idea of what is yet to come.  When you start grabbing stranger's left hands to turn their wrists to see what watch they are wearing then thats when they need to start worrying. Erm  not that i...ah-hem....have done that.
    • Can you get a top view with power off, balance at rest? The hairspring could be off center just enough that it is touching something when running (center wheel, stud, regulator). Thing is, on older stuff in particular, if you find a balance complete there's about a 99.99% chance the hairspring of the new balance will need some adjustment to work correctly.   Also, not much use getting concerned with the rate until you get the amplitude up.
    • Those pins look awfully tight. Does the hairspring slide freely between them when you adjust the rate?  
    • John will ask this question anyway: how did the watch run before your service?
×
×
  • Create New...