Jump to content

Anybody use Carbon Fiber Tweezers?


Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, Woolshire said:

I have seen them advertised and understand the non-static part and lower risk of scratching plates, but not sure about durability or overall performance.

anybody use these?

Stick with metal. This is not your regular heavy-duty vice tool for automotive repairs. There is no need to squeeze any watch plates to the point you damage it.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd stick with metal: stainless non magnetic and/or brass IMHO. I have a pair #3 and I find them too flexible more than brass and not as strong as metal. Too flexible equals >zing< launched parts.  Expensive and they pretty much sit. Mine came in a bought lot from the 'Bay. Spend your money on a size AA or MM brass. Unless you might need them for battery stuff. 

That being said, I am a bit curious about the hardwood tipped ones. But 60 bucks a pair? Somebody better convince me lol

Edited by MechanicMike
Terrible spelling. Ugh.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't recall if what I have is advertised as being carbon fiber or not, but they're black plastic tips sold by Cousins. Clunky, and required dressing out of the box. I use them for hands and dials. Not useful for much else, and sometimes with really small hands they're not all that useful for that. Still, I use them when I do to eliminate one possible opportunity for error since I have them and they're convenient.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

I don't recall if what I have is advertised as being carbon fiber or not, but they're black plastic tips sold by Cousins. Clunky, and required dressing out of the box. I use them for hands and dials. Not useful for much else, and sometimes with really small hands they're not all that useful for that. Still, I use them when I do to eliminate one possible opportunity for error since I have them and they're convenient.

I think I have the same one.  Quite a bit of flex but ok to pick up dials, date wheels, hands etc.

image.png.c796ff49500d62ff91d67d03f2539027.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...