Jump to content

Chronometer seconds hand replacement on Landeron 51


Jakub

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

I recently finished service on Chronographe Suisse with Landeron 51 movement, and it went very well except one cosmetic issue.

Alredy at purchase there was a problem with chronograph center seconds hand that is indeed very beautiful, but too heavy for this function. Every time resetting chronograph function it wouldn’t return to “0” but it slipped a bit when hammer hits heart ❤️ on seconds wheel. Didn’t bother me too much, since I inspected mechanic function and that looked OK. My initial thought was to tighten it with pin vice and maybe use a drop of epoxy to keep it in place.

During disassembly I inspected this closer and find someone before already messed with it and tube was badly damaged and cracked. This lead me to decision to replace it. 

So measured the end of pinion and I see 0,29mm. Put down note and went to search for replacement. Found on Cousins they have these hands with maximum diameter of 0,27mm. 

Since I’ve never replaced hands my question is if that is ok to if hand diameter is this 0,02mm smaller and is possible to fit it without any adjustments?

Regards

Jakub

8FE54EA5-47D0-433D-BD00-0B9E0925DC68.jpeg

14FE5E84-B895-4A36-99B4-127504F2F948.jpeg

605C5935-93B5-401E-8A3F-F88120B38B43.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

0.02mm is a bit too much. But, where did you measure? The pivot there is tapered normally, so it will be smaller at the end and larger a mm or two back from the tip. When I make tubes I usually drill 0.01mm smaller than the smallest part of the pivot, then use a tapered broach to bring it to final size. When broaching check often, and when the hand fits about 1/3 of the way it needs to go with normal pressure (you can still pull it back off with tweezers), stop. That should be a good friction fit for a chronograph hand.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not worked on this movement but I suspect it could be that when fitting the centre seconds hand the hammer has to be engaged as well when fitting. I found this issue to my cost working on a Brietling fitted with 7750. I therefore purchased a dedicated 7750 movement holder and it resolved the issue. Also worth noting the centre seconds has to be tight or it will drift.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

0.02mm is a bit too much. But, where did you measure? The pivot there is tapered normally, so it will be smaller at the end and larger a mm or two back from the tip. When I make tubes I usually drill 0.01mm smaller than the smallest part of the pivot, then use a tapered broach to bring it to final size. When broaching check often, and when the hand fits about 1/3 of the way it needs to go with normal pressure (you can still pull it back off with tweezers), stop. That should be a good friction fit for a chronograph hand.

Thank you for taking time to help me with my small problem I really appreciate it ? This help a lot! 

Gonna get down to cousins and order broaches right with hands (don’t expect to nail it on first attempt)

Regards 

Jakub

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, clockboy said:

I have not worked on this movement but I suspect it could be that when fitting the centre seconds hand the hammer has to be engaged as well when fitting. I found this issue to my cost working on a Brietling fitted with 7750. I therefore purchased a dedicated 7750 movement holder and it resolved the issue. Also worth noting the centre seconds has to be tight or it will drift.

I my case it is engaged when fitting. Anyway I still find challenging to fit this center hands on chronos. All good and aligned until press down and there we go, one second off ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, Jakub said:

I my case it is engaged when fitting. Anyway I still find challenging to fit this center hands on chronos. All good and aligned until press down and there we go, one second off 

51 minutes ago, Jakub said:

I my case it is engaged when fitting. Anyway I still find challenging to fit this center hands on chronos. All good and aligned until press down and there we go, one second off ?

I have not worked on this movement but I suspect it could be that when fitting the centre seconds hand the hammer has to be engaged as well when fitting. I found this issue to my cost working on a Brietling fitted with 7750. I therefore purchased a dedicated 7750 movement holder and it resolved the issue. Also worth noting the centre seconds has to be tight or it will drift.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, clockboy said:

Fitting chrono hands can be tricky.I own an upright hand pusher tool such as below. Makes fitting so much easier

 

9EF7DE84-1274-4F08-9754-B86DCA7E132A.jpeg.643fb9274194b2c98dbdde84289cdfff.jpeg

That for sure must be nice. One day... Now I’m more about buying tools for first year of BHI course. There is plenty including lathe and jewelling set besides many others so ???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Jakub said:

I my case it is engaged when fitting. Anyway I still find challenging to fit this center hands on chronos. All good and aligned until press down and there we go, one second off ?

ETA7753 is another "good" example of how painful and frustrating it is to remove and install Central Second hand. I think i mentioned this before, that i had to use a fine sub-punch during removal process. Nothing else worked. To avoid any  issues with fitting that old hand, i ordered a new replacement Central Second hand. Fitting the new one was also not easy, even with the use of a special holder.

IMG_5023 - Copy.jpg

Edited by Poljot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, Poljot said:

ETA7753 is another "good" example of how painful and frustrating it is to remove and install Central Second hand. I think i mentioned this before, that i had to use a fine sub-punch during removal process. Nothing else worked. To avoid any  issues with fitting that old hand, i ordered a new replacement Central Second hand. Fitting the new one was also not easy, even with the use of a special holder.

IMG_5023 - Copy.jpg

Well if the picture shows result then well done! ?

So far I worked on 1 Seiko and it was 6139B from Pogue and, that was so easy. I’m sure you guys know this well but it was first time for me to see center pinion with specially shaped pinion on dial end to fit hand. I mean that solves so much trouble. Wish to see this more often since I like to work on chronos the best, but this hand is like “sweet end” before casing. Well I guess practice, practice, practice...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That watch has a stunning dial and hands, and what appears to be a gold case, judging by the lugs. I'd be tempted to try to get an old blue steel hand which matches more closesly than a new part from Cousins. Although they may have something suitable. It's not too hard to tighten hand pipes very slightly if they are too large, but this can be problematic with chronographs due to the flyback operation (which I'm sure you know already). Don't be afraid to make your own broach from an old pinion if you have a suitably sized spare - you can make one with a single cutting side which is good enough for brass pipes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
On 12/17/2020 at 11:35 AM, nickelsilver said:

0.02mm is a bit too much. But, where did you measure? The pivot there is tapered normally, so it will be smaller at the end and larger a mm or two back from the tip. When I make tubes I usually drill 0.01mm smaller than the smallest part of the pivot, then use a tapered broach to bring it to final size. When broaching check often, and when the hand fits about 1/3 of the way it needs to go with normal pressure (you can still pull it back off with tweezers), stop. That should be a good friction fit for a chronograph hand.

Hi! Just want to give you a update. Finally I received parts and tools for hand replacement. I didn’t do the drilling since I don’t have tools for that. Broach worked perfect and I successfully replaced right on first try. About 1/3 with tweezers and then push down. 0,3mm tapered broach was the one to take it home for 0,27 hand to fit 0,29 pinion.

BR

Jakub

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
×
×
  • Create New...